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what should i do next

  • Thread starter Thread starter kilog55
  • Start date Start date
K

kilog55

Guest
ok i have my carbs cleaned re-oringed, jetted (stage 3), pods, and 4-1 exhaust.

so what should i mod next? ignition, charging, etc??
 
noooo i dont want a chopped bobber or cafe lol i just want more power, reliability etc
 
kilog55 said:
noooo i dont want a chopped bobber or cafe lol i just want more power, reliability etc
Click to expand...

That's what we all want. Heaps of power with total reliability. Greed is what upsets this balance.;)

Your next move is to tune it. Plug reads for ideal spark advance and dialing in those carbs to the pods and the 4-1.
By using the DJ kit, you should be half way there already.
 
The '82 850 has the advance curve built into the ignitor. It's a good unit, there is no benefit to changing it unless it's broke.

Next mod I recommend is teflon/stainless brake lines. A FET R/R would also be a good mod too. And Progressive fork springs.
 
Brakes or suspension upgrades.

What good is going fast if you can't stop :eek:
 
yes i know i need new brake pads, rotors are still great i flushed the fluid last year but stainless lines are always nice, i know i need new intake boots for the head, clutch and springs are brand new, new plugs, should get new wires as well, have a cracked cap.
 
kilog55 said:
yes i know i need new brake pads, rotors are still great i flushed the fluid last year but stainless lines are always nice, i know i need new intake boots for the head, clutch and springs are brand new, new plugs, should get new wires as well, have a cracked cap.
Click to expand...

I went to the auto parts store and bought 2 really long 7mm wires and made my own.
Got the caps from Z1
 
yeah i need new caps and wires, id like to re-gasket my motor and do the valve as well ill have to save up for the parts and tools, only have a few good shops in the area id let do the work,

id also like to get a dyno run in and see if he can tweak anything for more power :-\\\
 
Put in a dyna ignition and nice green dyna coils. If you can't hear your valves when it's at idle, you might want to check the valves and adjust so that your running kinda at the loose end for piece of mind. Out of curiosity what kind of jets are you running for you main, air, and so forth?
 
That's cool. Mike bike is a tad boggy when letting go of the clutch. But after that no problem at all. I haven't taken a look at the needles if they need shimming or not, but will do pretty soon.
 
yeah i set everything up the way the kit said i should have modified my needle position for better low end maybe i will when i replace the intake boots on the heads for a little more bottom end fuel then get it to a shop to tune or buy the tool and learn myself probly cheaper to DIY
 
I bought a carb synch last year. Really frustrating and kind of confusing. If you wanted them to get all synch say at 1500rpm and then idle it around 3000rpm, then they will be off. And vice versa as well. Some people say to synch at idle and some people say synch at riding around town range. But did the best I could and def made a difference.
 
thats good to know its difficult lol, i have a throttle lock (cruise control) on mine so i can lock it down at a set rpm and go from there, luckily my bike was old man owned so its in great shape he even tagged what wire is for what under the seat etc.

had a vetter fairing on it but was too sr-71 looking for me lol
 
almarconi said:
Brakes or suspension upgrades.

What good is going fast if you can't stop :eek:
Click to expand...

stainless lines should be added as a matter of course... and don't count as an upgrade ;) - progressive springs in the front end, sort the oil and some upgraded rear shocks should be fine. don't be tight, give it what it needs ... lol
 
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