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Guest
Guest
I'm going to be doing the old "gas tank full of ball bearings in the dryer" trick tomorrow & want to know what to rinse the crap out with after I shake as much loose as I can.
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G
Guest
Guest
Evaporust or white vinegar
Ball bearings are smooth and just roll over the rust and crud. You need something rough to scrub the inside of the tank if you want to get the most out of that tumbling work out.
BTW, some phosphate solution will eat off all the crud poste haste. No need to do the tumbling business.
BTW, some phosphate solution will eat off all the crud poste haste. No need to do the tumbling business.
Depends on if your wanting to save the paint or not. If NOT...then use some acetone or MEK to help cut anything stuck in the crease. If your gonna save the paint then go with some super hot water and strong dish soap. set a shop vac exhaust in the filler cap to dry it as quickly as is possible when done.
Tank storage
Tank storage
Don't mean to hijack, but I've got a spare '83 1100e gas tank sitting in my basement. Don't even ask me why I bought it, some dream of having two sets of different colored bodywork ala Nardy's old beauty.
I can't see using it in the foreseeable future, so should I coat the inside with some oil to fight rust?
Tank storage
Don't mean to hijack, but I've got a spare '83 1100e gas tank sitting in my basement. Don't even ask me why I bought it, some dream of having two sets of different colored bodywork ala Nardy's old beauty.
I can't see using it in the foreseeable future, so should I coat the inside with some oil to fight rust?
J
Joe Guilbeau
Guest
Use Metal Rescue... safe on paint, chrome, rubber etc. Leave for 24 hrs. Environmentally friendly. Fill tank with 1 Gallon of metal rescue, after 24 hours flip tank over for 2nd 24 hours. Rinse well...and you are done!
I have used this in the water rooms in Fresenius Hemodialysis Clinics and it works. Restored my GS1100EX gas tanks with it as well.
Here is a video of what to expect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EECdC8hWWE
I have used this in the water rooms in Fresenius Hemodialysis Clinics and it works. Restored my GS1100EX gas tanks with it as well.
Here is a video of what to expect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EECdC8hWWE
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Cool video (cool wife). :xsmilie_mrgreen:
had to learn this since moving to the midwest.
had to learn this since moving to the midwest.
Never have I seen tanks as nasty as the Midwest motorcycle tanks..
for the super crusty tanks I use a 10" long small chain 3/4" links or A container full of nuts have sharp edges not gravel not bearings Just get the big stuff off especially the top inside of the tank.. But if that severe procedure of rust removal is needed - consider the tank useless and decide if it is for use or for show...
You really need to get to fresh metal and if the seam is thin. consider a riding tank that holds fluid and just have a for show tank.
To get to fresh metal and make it as new as possible - Use up to a half gallon muriatic acid - put it inside the tank full strength - dangerous but most effective!! This will get the biggest part of the job done in 15 minutes. get the paint wet and keep it wet.. slosh and slosh rotate 360 degrees in 360 degrees -- all over and over - don't breathe the vapors....if it splashes set it down and rinse the outside. don't get it on your skin. it burns.
drain and rinse inside with water. When all you have is clean water , drain and shake. drain and shake. Immediately dry inside the tank with a pint of Isopropyl alcohol. blow dry with compressed air - this is where you either coat the inside with a poly coating or slosh 2 stroke oil and a little gas to seal the bare metal.
kreem is a retail product -and it works GREAT if installed properly- people that say other did it WRONG or the tank was un-save-able. PM me I have an industrial product I will share at cost. it is purple
had to learn this since moving to the midwest.
Never have I seen tanks as nasty as the Midwest motorcycle tanks..
for the super crusty tanks I use a 10" long small chain 3/4" links or A container full of nuts have sharp edges not gravel not bearings Just get the big stuff off especially the top inside of the tank.. But if that severe procedure of rust removal is needed - consider the tank useless and decide if it is for use or for show...
You really need to get to fresh metal and if the seam is thin. consider a riding tank that holds fluid and just have a for show tank.
To get to fresh metal and make it as new as possible - Use up to a half gallon muriatic acid - put it inside the tank full strength - dangerous but most effective!! This will get the biggest part of the job done in 15 minutes. get the paint wet and keep it wet.. slosh and slosh rotate 360 degrees in 360 degrees -- all over and over - don't breathe the vapors....if it splashes set it down and rinse the outside. don't get it on your skin. it burns.
drain and rinse inside with water. When all you have is clean water , drain and shake. drain and shake. Immediately dry inside the tank with a pint of Isopropyl alcohol. blow dry with compressed air - this is where you either coat the inside with a poly coating or slosh 2 stroke oil and a little gas to seal the bare metal.
kreem is a retail product -and it works GREAT if installed properly- people that say other did it WRONG or the tank was un-save-able. PM me I have an industrial product I will share at cost. it is purple
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SAFETY TIP OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!
Have 2 or 3 boxes of Arm and Hammer baking soda in the house AND in the shop -- it neutralizes acids!! this procedure uses a harsh acid -saving paint? got it on your hand ?? -battery acid - under your seat - on the frame --- on your swing arm... on your arm or hand?? generously dust with the stuff and rinse with water ...
Have 2 or 3 boxes of Arm and Hammer baking soda in the house AND in the shop -- it neutralizes acids!! this procedure uses a harsh acid -saving paint? got it on your hand ?? -battery acid - under your seat - on the frame --- on your swing arm... on your arm or hand?? generously dust with the stuff and rinse with water ...
I've used the Evaporust and white vinegar and done the tumble in the dryer wrapped in a blanket with screws and bolts inside. Ball bearings are too smooth as previously stated and I've heard a small chain works good too. I'll check out that prep etch for an old Honda tank I need to clean and coat and I'm curious about the acid. I have pets and kids and even with proper PPE I'm a little hesitant.
I like the Evaporust as it's more effective IMO than the vinegar, (I've tried the apple cider variety as well) and is reusable and non toxic. $32/gallon on Amazon. I've used it twice and bet I can use it a few more times. I'm still undecided on Kreem vs Caswell's 2 part epoxy product for coating though. Think I'll try one of each as well as do some more reading for opinions or studies. For storage in winter I add stabil and keep the tanks topped off to keep rust to a minimum.
I like the Evaporust as it's more effective IMO than the vinegar, (I've tried the apple cider variety as well) and is reusable and non toxic. $32/gallon on Amazon. I've used it twice and bet I can use it a few more times. I'm still undecided on Kreem vs Caswell's 2 part epoxy product for coating though. Think I'll try one of each as well as do some more reading for opinions or studies. For storage in winter I add stabil and keep the tanks topped off to keep rust to a minimum.
G
Guest
Guest
A little bit of oil shouldn't hurt although I'd swish some gas around in it before putting it back in service. You might have a little bit of smoke out the exhaust on first start up though.
Muriatic acid is nasty stuff; very aggressive and it gives off nasty fumes. I don't recommend it to derust tanks, but you can use it if you are very careful and neutralize the stuff afterwards. Phosphoric acid is a much safer material. It won't eat your skin super fast and it doesn't need to be neutralized with baking soda. Naval jelly is phosphoric acid. Metal prep as sold by paint supply manufacturers is phosphoric acid. The Prep and Etch sauce available at Home Depot is phosphoric acid. The point is that phosphoric acid is the product of choice by industry to derust steel. There are other methods of course, including some very nice boutique products like EvapoRust, but if you just want to derust your tank quickly and safely, phosphoric acid is the correct product.
BTW, both Por-15 and Kreem include phosphoric acid in their fuel tank restoration kits.
BTW, both Por-15 and Kreem include phosphoric acid in their fuel tank restoration kits.
G
Guest
Guest
I'm off to Home Depot then.
I keep a 20 or 30% solution of phosphoric acid made up for just this kind of thing. Marvellous for treating rusty steel, then wash off before painting. I have a trailer that was de-rusted three years ago, been left outside since and not a trace of rust re-appearing on it anywhere. Considering the paint was cheapy household interior/exterior grade, it's doing well.