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What would cause a battery to dry out?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Suzuki_Don said:
But you live in Queensland.
Click to expand...
I live about an hour south west of Cairns but at almost 1000 metres above sea level.Coldest recorded temp was -13,but regularly get frosts in the middle of the year.Nice break from the heat of the rest of the year.Cheers,Simon.:)
 
psyguy said:
i get a 0.6V drop at the rr sense wire as compared to the voltage at the battery (this is with the ignition ON and the lights OFF, and the engine OFF)

is this acceptable?
Click to expand...
0.2v or less, with that said, I don't think that's your trouble, but just to be sure, can you connect it to a different wire?

what voltage is your system charging at?

I suspect the R/R has gone NORTH (bad) on you. (in my hemisphere it's south...)
 
all good?!

all good?!

i tested the charging system with another battery that i know is good and at 5000rpm i get 14.4V

also, with this new battery the voltage drop at the sense wire is 0.4V (whereas it's 0.6V with the old battery)

the old battery that i salvaged after it went dry can still hold the charge but at only 12.4V (overnight)
however it cranks the cold engine just fine so i'll try squeze some more life out of it :oops:

what exactly caused the battery to suddenly go bone-dry remains a mistery, it seems :-k


thanks for the input guys!
 
Maybe one of those acid freaks drank your battery man.:p Interesting though.Still that eltrickery can be weird sh#t sometimes.Might try taking it to an auto lecky and get them to test it under load(careful though because they will tell you it's rooted so they can sell you a new one).Cheers,Simon.:-k
 
psyguy,
Unless you have a physical crack or leak then it must be the charging. If all of the charging system is working correctly now, I can only think that sometime recently the battery was being overcharged causing the electrolyte to evaporate. Regulator incorrectly thought battery was low and pushed out a high voltage to your already full battery.

Maybe once you started checking the stator, regulator and battery you inadvertently cleared the condition causing the problem. Which could point to a wire and especially the wiring with a bad, loose, corroded contact.

If it was not that, it may be an intermittant failure that shows itself only under certain conditions, at certain RPM's, high heat or when switching on more current hungry assessories such as lights etc.

I would suggest that you check the battery regularly after and during a run, but you may then not notice anything suspicious if the problem is intermittent.

In such a case the best is to have a volt meter accross your battery while driving and be able to see the voltage at all times.
I would suggest fitting a small digital one or even a small analog one. I have just modified one myself but have not fitted it yet.

 
thanks for the replies simon, matchless

i'll certainly keep an eye on it more often now, but as matchless suggested it may have been a one-off or an intemittent prob that's not that easy to pinpoint...

damn, i think i prefer having a flat-tyre-kind-of-prob rather than an electrical prob - a flat tyre is a straight forward fix, this one was a lot of head-scratching :D
 
one more question

one more question

would an in-line fuse on the rr positive wire have prevented this failure?

i have yet to install the fuse (i plead guilty to not doing it before) :oops:
 
simon kuether said:
I didn't thunk you neededed one??:-k Cheers,Simon.
Click to expand...

you do. in stock configuration it's already there as the +wire from the rr goes through the fusebox
if you take that wire directly to the battery then you need an in-line fuse on that wire
that much i know :D
 
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