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What's the toughest bolt you've run into on your GS?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I've been fighting the front engine mount bolt for a couple hours now! Wow, it took half an hour of continuous pounding with a 2 lb hammer just to get it to slide a bit. This is the only bolt I've ever found rusted on the 400 even after 2 years of winter riding but it sure is making some fun for me. :D The only reason I'm taking it out is to put on engine guards, which took 20 minutes to remove at the wreckers.

Steve
 
Exhaust

Exhaust

Anything with the exhaust bolts, I hate these!! I have snapped them, stripped the thread, cursed, bought longer bolts, cursed more, turned to drinking, and then cursed more.

my opinion...
 
Re: Exhaust

Re: Exhaust

KrazyKarl02 said:
Anything with the exhaust bolts, I hate these!! I have snapped them, stripped the thread, cursed, bought longer bolts, cursed more, turned to drinking, and then cursed more.

my opinion...
Click to expand...

Definately EXHAUST BOLTS on the 450...

Although for some reason my 850's were LOOSE...

I now loosen & re-tighten the exhaust bolts on the 450 every year...
 
Too early to announce a winner? Well, I reckon it's exhaust bolts too, I've snapped about 7 of the eight on my bike, so I was pleasantly surprised when restoring an old Honda 750/4 single cammer recently, it has exhaust STUDS!

Now Suzuki has been credited with "borrowing" the technology from the leading universal japanese motorcycle manufacturers of the 1970's for the design of the first GS fours, so how did they miss this little gem? I mean, if Honda knew that screwing steel bolts into an alloy head and leaving them there for years in all extremes of weather and engine temperature was gonna cause a problem, then why couldn't the engineers at Suzuki?

Ah well, it's kept the manufacturers of "Heli-coils" in business I guess.............. :twisted:
 
Recently broke a valve cover bolt. All of the bolts were rusted. Replaced them all and put anti-sease conpound on them. Doubt valve check and adjustments were done in many a year on my GK. 7 of 8 clearances were out, not enough clearance. The broken bolt was under the frame, regular drill or even a 90 drill would not work due to clearance. Found a neigbor that had a small air drill that worked. Broke several drill bits and one easy out (part of it is still in there). Placed a 8mm helicoil and bolt in it and it worked! This was a several week deal for me. I went out of town and I also got to the point that I was sick of working with it. I will never use a easy out again!
 
Re: Exhaust

Re: Exhaust

Dave_A said:
KrazyKarl02 said:
Anything with the exhaust bolts, I hate these!! I have snapped them, stripped the thread, cursed, bought longer bolts, cursed more, turned to drinking, and then cursed more.

my opinion...
Click to expand...

Definately EXHAUST BOLTS on the 450...

Although for some reason my 850's were LOOSE...

I now loosen & re-tighten the exhaust bolts on the 450 every year...
Click to expand...

I like the idea of "working" the exhaust bolts every year as routine maintenance. I also like the idea of replacing the bolts with studs. I was somehow very fortunate that on my GS1000E, the bolts came out easily. I sure would like to keep it that way.
 
I use antiseize on loads of things and that really helps.
Is there an a compound for using on high heat nuts and bolts?
I seem to remember something about a nickel or copper instead of zinc based compound.
 
Definitely the bolts holding the stock rear fender on.
I squeezed, pushed, banged, used penetrating oil for an hour and FINALLY it broke loose and would spin!

So I'm there spinning the ratchet for 30 minutes wondering just how fine the bloody thread is on this stupid bolt! I get fed up and start wondering if the threading stripped and it's just perpetually spinning. So I have a look up under the fender and see a nice little NUT sitting on the bolt spinning along just as happy. I almost smacked myself in the head with the ratchet i felt so stupid.

Then once i acquired another ratchet and socket to put on the nut I found out that the evil thing had rusted solid to the bolt and wouldn't spin at all.
Out came the chisel and hammer since I wasn't keeping the stock fender anyway. The bolts were broken in half and the fender removed but man...I must have spent about 2 hours just getting the rear fender off!!

Whew, glad the rebuild is over.
Thank you Jesus!
Dm of mD
:P
 
terry said:
Ah well, it's kept the manufacturers of "Heli-coils" in business I guess.............. :twisted:
Click to expand...

ROFLMAO!!!
:lol: :lol:
Dm of mD
 
Intake manifold screws were the worst so far on my bike but I haven't had to remove the exhaust screws yet. All the engine screws on my bike have a lot of corrosion on the threads. I've been putting anti-seize on everything I have to remove!

Debby
77 GS550B
 
I can loosen all the bolts and screws but once the bolts are off the freakin' covers still won't budge. Didn't matter if it was clutch, stator, or valve. Yeah, and I banged it (and banged it) with the rubber mallet and plastic hammers too. Everyone says they'll come off once you bring some rubber mallet persuasion but it hasn't happened yet. Otherwise, I replace everything with stainless as a matter of course and use Permatex anti-seize. BTW, for big nuts (14-21 mm) a metric 4-way lug wrench is great.
 
The camshaft bearing cap nuts

The camshaft bearing cap nuts

I was adjusting the cam chain tensioner on my 82 GS450 today, and I over-cranked the cranck shaft, the cam chain timing was off.
So I removed the camshaft bearing caps, adjust the timing.
When I tried to put the nuts back, I broke both nuts for the in-take side cap of right cylinder. The broken parts stuck in the engine block. I read the Haynes manual and it says "These bolts are the correct high tensile type. Do not use any other bolt to retain the caps or breakage may occur"
I went to the auto parts store, bought the broken bolts remover and 2 same-sized bolts, the salesman told me they're "Harden" ones. So I supposed they'll hold the cap. Just when I spent 1 hour removing the remaining part of the bolts and tried to put the nuts back, I broke another original "High Tensile" nut. And I went back to the store, they told me the last two nuts I bought were the last two they had. What a lucky day!

Does anybody know if these harden bolts will hold?
 
hehe, atleast you broke the bolts putting them in. That means they aren't seized.

Steve
 
front drive sprocket, actually stripped the threads off the shaft while removing the nut, $250 US later at a machine shop the shaft is rethreaded with a slightly smaller nut size. :?
 
Steve I just put case guards on my 400 last week or so, didn't have a problem with the bolts, did have to grind the guards a bit to make them fit in though. THE toughest bolts or screws I've come up against were and still are on my spare carbs. They are the ones holding the rails on that hold the carbs together. I've started to strip the heads on a few of them, so someday when I really want to work on them I'll soak them in WD-40 and get them off.

On another note, helping my dad rebuild his tractor I've snapped half inch bolts(by hand) that were simpy rusted on, which was fine because they needed to be replaced anyways, the other 2 (1 snapped on came out) we got out using heavy duty wrenches and jacks. The tractor would actually lift off the ground simply on the bolt, then you'd jump on it and the bolt would snap or come loose. I guess I am stronger than I let myself believe. Better be careful with those carbs.....
 
OldRider said:
Intake boot phillips head bolts.
Click to expand...

Thanks David, I'm ready to remove those and replace the orings behind them. :( Oh well, everyone else complains about exhaust head bolts, and mine came out very easily the first time(and everytime since) so maybe I'll get lucky.
 
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