Whats up with this fork ???

[GTGS]

After taking a ride today I noticed that I'm starting to get some fork oil creeping out of the left fork seal. I read the disassembly and replacement of the fork seals in my clymer manual and took a look at the rebuild guide on basscliffs site. They all say to remove the rubber cap at the top of the tube and there should be a spring clip. I pulled the cap on the top of my forks (see photo) and there is no clip, as a matter of fact they look like they are solid and there is no groove to accept a clip. Any ideas? or am I missing something?

 

[Macmatic]

It has a clip, those are just like the fork caps on my GS750.

What you need to do is press down on that dimple in the middle and the thin wire clip will be exposed. The fun starts when you need to press down on the dimple in the disk and at the same time use a pick to get the clip out of its groove and then carefully let the cap rise up.

I use an old screwdriver that I cut the tip off of to press the cap down with. For me it works best to push down and then use a couple of folded up rags over the top for protection while I use my chest to hold the thing down and pick out the clip. Its awkward but it works.

I'm building a new set of forks for my bike as time and money allow and I'm using inner tubes that have the screw in caps both for ease of service and for safety. Those wire clips are really skinny, prone to rust and the only thing keeping your fork springs in.

/\/\ac

 

[kinnet]

After taking a ride today I noticed that I'm starting to get some fork oil creeping out of the left fork seal. I read the disassembly and replacement of the fork seals in my clymer manual and took a look at the rebuild guide on basscliffs site. They all say to remove the rubber cap at the top of the tube and there should be a spring clip. I pulled the cap on the top of my forks (see photo) and there is no clip, as a matter of fact they look like they are solid and there is no groove to accept a clip. Any ideas? or am I missing something?

You need to push down on the disc and take out the circlip. The groove with the circlip in it is behind the (under) the metal disc and that is what holds it in place.

Compress the spring and you will find it. It might take four hands.

 

[Macmatic]

Compress the spring and you will find it. It might take four hands.

Yeah, that.

 

[GTGS]

OK I tried to push it in a little to see what you were talking about. I get it now thanks.

I have a follow up question. When you guys replace the seals what else do you replace? The clymer manual recommends the teflon ring or bushing do you replace that as well as other parts or the seal only??

 

[Macmatic]

I've had mine apart a few times but only replaced internal parts the first time. You won't know what you need until you get them apart so hopefully you can take a week of downtime!

Check all the teflon parts and the parts they call valves and springs. Check out the diagram for your forks at alpha-sports.com or the fiche site of your choice. I'd count on having to replace the teflon bits at least and its a great time to upgrade the springs or at least add some preload while you're in there.

Be real careful putting it all back in so you don't catch a spring in the face or send the cap flying.

/\/\ac

 

[twr1776]

I would recommend getting the Progressive or Race Tech replacement springs and getting rid of the crappy unsafe OEM springs.

As far as the specific parts I have not done your type of fork specifically but I would replace 6,7,8,9,10,11, 17, 27 & 29. Yes, maybe it is a bit of overkill but most of the parts are only a couple of bucks each and worth it IHMO. Some favor OEM seals, others like the Pro Moly type.

I think # 22 is the teflon ring they refer to in the manual but on the forks I have taken apart they have always been in good shape so I did not replace them. Make sure you use Blue Loctite on part # 10 on re-assembly.