Where do these wires go?

[claygs750e]

Well I think I sorta fixed one problem and found a new one which is typical for me. So, you were right, once I grounded the solenoid it started to crank. The crank is very slow, battery is right at 12v, but at least it's cranking. So I thought what the heck I will throw gas in the tank and try to turn it over. After multiple cranks that sounded like there was no chance of turning over gas started pouring out of the carbs.

So, I've just rebuild the carbs with a stage 3 kit and walked through every single step looking at both write-ups on bikecliffs site so I am really confident it's done right. I also recently bought a new petcock, the one that has no dial that you turn with a screw driver. I'm not sure what setting I need to have this one when I'm trying to start the bike. Could I have it in the prime setting where it's filling up the bowls and then eventually pouring out? The gas stopped once I turned it horizontal.

 

[claygs750e]

Ok, so I've mounted everything temporarily, but it's not starting. I hear it cranking, but when I have one of the spark plugs out still attached to the plug and grounded I'm not seeing a spark from any of the plugs. I've attached a crude diagram how everything is currently connected and the schematic and to me it looks ok. I don't have any of the front or rear end wired currently.

What I'm doing now is taking a loose wire from the positive side of the battery and touching the green connector from the solenoid to the starter disconnect switch to bypass the ignition for now. Can I do that?

Also, before I started this build all the electric worked fine so I'm 99% sure it's something that I did as far as not having it wired correctly.
Thanks.

 

[posplayr]

Ok, so I've mounted everything temporarily, but it's not starting. I hear it cranking, but when I have one of the spark plugs out still attached to the plug and grounded I'm not seeing a spark from any of the plugs. I've attached a crude diagram how everything is currently connected and the schematic and to me it looks ok. I don't have any of the front or rear end wired currently.

What I'm doing now is taking a loose wire from the positive side of the battery and touching the green connector from the solenoid to the starter disconnect switch to bypass the ignition for now. Can I do that?

Also, before I started this build all the electric worked fine so I'm 99% sure it's something that I did as far as not having it wired correctly.
Thanks.

Everything looks good EXCEPT (see below)with the schematic assuming you have two blacks and two reds out of the R/R ; it is not marked
EXCEPT you do not need to run a Red to the Battery + and to the Red in the harness. Pick on or the other. The Red in the harness is prefered.

You need to turn on the ignition switch and kill switch if you want to start the bike.

The Orange will should go hot with the IGN key is on.
The O/W at the coils should be hot when IGN and Kill switch is in RUN position.
If not then powering the Y/G will only crank the starter and not provide the spark to get the bike to fire.

 

[claygs750e]

So there is two blacks and two reds coming from the R/R but I thought one went to the battery and one to the red wire from the harness. Do I just splice the two red wires together from the R/R and then splice into the harness?

 

[posplayr]

So there is two blacks and two reds coming from the R/R but I thought one went to the battery and one to the red wire from the harness. Do I just splice the two red wires together from the R/R and then splice into the harness?

You show 7 wires coming off of the R/R; What are the colors? and what do you have them hooked to?
Simply label the wire colors coming of the R/R on the schematic.

 

[claygs750e]

Attached I labeled the schematic and a picture of the aftermarket Polaris R/R I have. The adapter I bought has one connector with 3 wires to go to the stator and the other connector has 2 red and 2 black. I was told to directly connect to the stator with one connector. The other I was told to go to the neg battery and frame ground. The pos side go to the pos side of the battery and the other to the harness.

I tried going through the ignition switch, but nothing is happening. I have a jumper wire from the orange and red (having key issues) so it should be on. When I press start with the kill switch off and in run mode I'm not getting anything. That's why I was trying to start it at the G/W wire.

I know I'm close, but I'm missing something

 

[claygs750e]

Here is the Polaris R/R and I bought I believe a Honda adapter for it

 

[posplayr]

Attached I labeled the schematic and a picture of the aftermarket Polaris R/R I have. The adapter I bought has one connector with 3 wires to go to the stator and the other connector has 2 red and 2 black. I was told to directly connect to the stator with one connector. The other I was told to go to the neg battery and frame ground. The pos side go to the pos side of the battery and the other to the harness.

I tried going through the ignition switch, but nothing is happening. I have a jumper wire from the orange and red (having key issues) so it should be on. When I press start with the kill switch off and in run mode I'm not getting anything. That's why I was trying to start it at the G/W wire.

I know I'm close, but I'm missing something

Reread what I said before:
To start you need +12v to O/W at coils.

You donot need two reds going to two different places from the R/R. Tie both to the same place but not two different places.


I understand you are getting two different kinds of direction. You are going to have to decide who to believe. I have posted at length on all the subjects and have 30 years of engineering and a masters in EE. Decide for your self.

 

[claygs750e]

I'm definitely not questioning your knowledge, I've read through many electrical posts and your advice has always been the most informed. I was just saying the reasoning that I originally wired that second wire to the battery.

So I did what you said and spliced both red wires from the RR and tired into the harness and still nothing. I removed the jumper at the ignition and tried pushing the button with the key on and nothing is happening. Any other thoughts?

 

[posplayr]

I'm definitely not questioning your knowledge, I've read through many electrical posts and your advice has always been the most informed. I was just saying the reasoning that I originally wired that second wire to the battery.

So I did what you said and spliced both red wires from the RR and tired into the harness and still nothing. I removed the jumper at the ignition and tried pushing the button with the key on and nothing is happening. Any other thoughts?

Is O/w hot? It needs to be to fire.



If it is not cranking with 12v to the solenoid y/g check the solenoid is grounded.

 

[claygs750e]

Ok, this is strange. If I turn the key on and check the voltage on the fuses only the two top fuses show 0 volts and the bottom three is zero. If I jump the red and orange on the key switch all the fuses have 12 volts.

I tested at the O/W wire at the connector of the kill/run switch without the jumper and with the jumper and I'm getting no volts. But if I test the O/W connector at the harness to the switch WITH the jumper in place the middle prong shows 12v, without the jumper it goes to zero. Both outter pins show zero regardless

The solenoid is bolted on bare metal with a wire to another bar metal ground location

UPDATE: With the jumper wire still in the key switch, I connected a jumper wire in the harness connector to the kill/run switch from the OW to GY and it does crank. Does this still bypass the coils?

 

[claygs750e]

So my second attempt was the same, but this time I touched all three prongs inside the kill switch/run connector (OW to kill, OW to run and GY) and with the plug out I did see a spark. So does that mean the kill/run switch is bad since I'm seeing a spark at the connector? And is the key switch bad since I can't get any power without jumping orange and red?

 

[posplayr]

Ok, this is strange. If I turn the key on and check the voltage on the fuses only the two top fuses show 0 volts and the bottom three is zero. If I jump the red and orange on the key switch all the fuses have 12 volts.

I tested at the O/W wire at the connector of the kill/run switch without the jumper and with the jumper and I'm getting no volts. But if I test the O/W connector at the harness to the switch WITH the jumper in place the middle prong shows 12v, without the jumper it goes to zero. Both outter pins show zero regardless

The solenoid is bolted on bare metal with a wire to another bar metal ground location

UPDATE: With the jumper wire still in the key switch, I connected a jumper wire in the harness connector to the kill/run switch from the OW to GY and it does crank. Does this still bypass the coils?

Cranking the engine and applying power to the coils are two separate function both of which are required to start the engine and are independent the way you are doing it.

 

[posplayr]

So my second attempt was the same, but this time I touched all three prongs inside the kill switch/run connector (OW to kill, OW to run and GY) and with the plug out I did see a spark. So does that mean the kill/run switch is bad since I'm seeing a spark at the connector? And is the key switch bad since I can't get any power without jumping orange and red?

You are over complicating and not understanding what I said before.

Put the kill switch back together.

1. Turn on the ignition (or jumper it). ===> The ORANGE wire should get HOT
   
2. Turn on the kill switch ====> the O/W at the coils should get hot.

If that doesn't work figure out why.

If 1.) fails it has to do with the ignition switch.
If 2) fails and 1) passes it has to do with the Kill switch or power to the kill switch.

 

[claygs750e]

Ok...so I opened up the ignition switch and the orange had 12v going into the kill switch, but when I checked the other o/w wire leaving the kill switch going to the run button it had no power in the run status. I squeezed in a little screw driver to clean the contacts on the kill switch since you can't open it up and then I had 12v going in and out of the kill switch. I hit the button and it actually started and ran for a good solid minute and then died (that's another story)

So I went to hit the button again and nothing again, checked the wire leaving the kill switch and again no volts. So I was going to replace this ignition switch anyway since its pretty beat up looking so I decided to take it apart, splice the two o/w and orange wires together at the kill switch and then hit the button, but nothing happen.

I pulled the connector and checked and I was still getting 12v at the orange pin and getting 12v at the orange wire and plugging the connector back in, but once I splice the orange and o/w wire together and check there's no volts. So now I'm puzzled because I thought the kill switch was just a switch so if you spice the wires it's bypassed right??

I'm getting a new ignition unit tomorrow anyway, but any ideas why it won't crank over now?

 

[claygs750e]

So temporarily until I get a new ignition this afternoon I have the kill switch wires (orange and O/w) tied together so ideally I would think if I touched the g/y against ground it would crank, but nothing is happening. I twisted both orange kill switch wires together and at the ignitor I have 1v and at both coils I only have 1. I'm not sure what the problem is besides me messing things up.

 

[claygs750e]

More testing if I'm doing it right. I went on bikeCliffs site and performed the igniter test by Mr. almarconi and I'm not seeing any spark from the 3 and 4 spark plugs when I connect the multimeter up to it.

I wonder if I fried the igniter because before I was able to crank it at the connector to the kill switch, but now I can't and nothing changed.

 

[Guest]

It fires 1-4, 2-3 so that doesn't make a lot of sense (left to right 1,2,3,4 as you sit on the bike). If one and two fires it is ok. Your bike will not start or fire properly with 1V at the coils, so you are chasing your tail. Find out what you did to lose your voltage at the coils. Electronic ignitions need full voltage to run.

 

[claygs750e]

I have 12v at the orange wire pin on the kill switch/run connector. I have that orange wire twisted with the orange/white. Once these were twisted I took my probe and grounded one end and stuck the other probe in each coil plug 9orange/white) wire and got no volts. Is this the correct way to test the coils?

 

[Guest]

Check the coils where the orange/white wire is screwed to the coil. I would run a jumper wire from the battery negative for your ground wire so you won't confuse the reading because of poor contact to ground. It sounds like you pooched the kill switch. It is a common source of voltage drop. That is why a lot of us do the coil relay mod after cleaning the switches up. If it causes a voltage drop again instead of feeding the coils directly it is only used to close the relay for direct battery voltage and a drop in the kill switch is no longer an issue because it doesn't take much voltage to close a relay. If you were to jumper directly from the coil orange/white to the battery your bike would probably fire right up, but you know that already because it ran before. There is no magic here, only direct cause and effect. Whatever you did in the switch is most likely the cause.