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It stopped working for some reason. I couldn't immediately figure out where it is.
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It is under the right handle switch assembly where the brake handle is at - Part number 10 here
https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40341f8700230d8b4ea3c/right-handle-switch
It is nothing more than a thin circuit board assembly that moves across a separate contact inside the switch assembly. Be sure to have a plastic sandwich bag over it when you unscrew the two screws or you'll have things flying everywhere
https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40341f8700230d8b4ea3c/right-handle-switch
It is nothing more than a thin circuit board assembly that moves across a separate contact inside the switch assembly. Be sure to have a plastic sandwich bag over it when you unscrew the two screws or you'll have things flying everywhere
should be on the underside of the front brake lever /master cylinder bracket. The parts fiche is not the best picture.
https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40341f8700230d8b4ea3c/right-handle-switch
Don't know if you can see this, as it's a US site. I know I have a pic of the guts of the switch, I'll see what I can find.
Little pieces and a spring in there, use care taking it apart to clean the contacts.
The spring is supposed to stay inside the little black plastic piece and the copper piece rides on top of the spring but only loosely stays put. In, operation the copper piece is held to the circuit board by the force of the spring and slides along the circuit board contacts as you squeeze the lever. The engagement point is slightly adjustable by just loosening the two screws and moving the oval shapes housing left or right, then re-tighten the screws. Special care needs to be taken when re-inserting the little black plastic piece into the underside of the lever, getting it in the right slot, in the correct orientation. Your clutch lever switch should be exactly the same.
https://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40341f8700230d8b4ea3c/right-handle-switch
Don't know if you can see this, as it's a US site. I know I have a pic of the guts of the switch, I'll see what I can find.
Little pieces and a spring in there, use care taking it apart to clean the contacts.
The spring is supposed to stay inside the little black plastic piece and the copper piece rides on top of the spring but only loosely stays put. In, operation the copper piece is held to the circuit board by the force of the spring and slides along the circuit board contacts as you squeeze the lever. The engagement point is slightly adjustable by just loosening the two screws and moving the oval shapes housing left or right, then re-tighten the screws. Special care needs to be taken when re-inserting the little black plastic piece into the underside of the lever, getting it in the right slot, in the correct orientation. Your clutch lever switch should be exactly the same.
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Is there anywhere else the problem could be? Like a wire I've unplugged?
I have opened the switch assembly before, I hate those springs. And now the left one is acting up (indicating was finniky when I was riding home today).
Check your ground wires first off and make sure they are securely attached. Does the rear brake still activate the light?
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Rear works as expected.
Look in the headlight bucket for those two wires and make sure they are still connected then look at the switch itself. You may need to slightly loosen the screws and slide the switch back and forth to see if it activates it. It's possible it moved out of position or the switch has gone bad.
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I located the switch. It seems the PO had the same issue and tried to insulate with some sticky mess (silicone?). I cleaned the conmectors, they were green. Sprayed yhem with oxide clean and then dielectric grease. Will upload pics after work.
I am having issues with my honker (I also think my honker has ran out of honk, the other one is rusty and disconnected). And indicators are stubborn so Ill get the joy of doing the left switchhouse tonight. Honk button is also wonky.
I am having issues with my honker (I also think my honker has ran out of honk, the other one is rusty and disconnected). And indicators are stubborn so Ill get the joy of doing the left switchhouse tonight. Honk button is also wonky.
The front brake switch below.
Make sure the two wires for it are connected in the headlamp bucket
Make sure the two wires for it are connected in the headlamp bucket
After today's visit to my switch I'm fairly sure that parts 8,9 & 10 are not meant to fly apart. Makes no sense from an assembly point of view.
The legs on 10 have little lugs that will snap onto holes in the plastic spring holder 8 if you open them up just a little.
I wonder if the constant to and fro deforms 10 and it flies out when opened after forty years.
The legs on 10 have little lugs that will snap onto holes in the plastic spring holder 8 if you open them up just a little.
I wonder if the constant to and fro deforms 10 and it flies out when opened after forty years.
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Thanks, but my issue has been resolved. Ill attach pictures of the switch and the insides for future reference in case someone search for this thread.
The switch:
Its the thing with the two screws labeled "B". The gew is something the PO used to keep water out, I assume.
Inside:
Mine did not contain any springs or anything, so they might have been lost before, or isnt needed. My brake lever is a bit spongy and not firm, so the light doesn't always turn of when standing still... I will investigate that more.
Edit: to fix it I cleaned off the corrosion with oxide cleaner and then applied generous amounts of dielectric grease.
The switch:
Its the thing with the two screws labeled "B". The gew is something the PO used to keep water out, I assume.
Inside:
Mine did not contain any springs or anything, so they might have been lost before, or isnt needed. My brake lever is a bit spongy and not firm, so the light doesn't always turn of when standing still... I will investigate that more.
Edit: to fix it I cleaned off the corrosion with oxide cleaner and then applied generous amounts of dielectric grease.
8,9,& 10 are separate if you get a new switch
Glad you found it Noreg. That picture just reinforces the "what the heck was that PO thinking" thoughts.
The plot thickens..........
Look at this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Suzuki...-500-550-750-73-74-75-76-77-G33-/231875707589
Mine was an aftermarket item around ?9 the genuine Suzuki is obviously much more expensive although ime not sure it's that much better though.
This picture clearly shows how the spring and copper piece fit into the little black plastic piece. I have sometimes had to bend the copper so that the points are a little further apart so it would stay put but still move freely in its slots.
Do you recall if your one had those little ears on the copper contact plate?
I opened out the tiniest bit and it clicked back into the spring holder and is going nowhere anytime soon.
This picture clearly shows how the spring and copper piece fit into the little black plastic piece. I have sometimes had to bend the copper so that the points are a little further apart so it would stay put but still move freely in its slots.
Great view of what it's supposed to look like. That was kinda tricky figuring out the IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown) listed below...after my clutch cable broke:
Here's the diagram for our "T":
Item#8 is not as descriptive...
Ed
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Hi, after three years of fitting it and age taking its toll
I cannot remember if it had ears or not sorry.
