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Where to weld starter clutch to rotor?

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
Hoping someone (Ray, Bellucci, Blower, Tripivot, etc) could explain where the welds need to be thanks. Trying to avoid future engine carnage. Would three tack welds outside of the bolt locations suffice?
 
What happens when a spring breaks and the dowels dont engage?? Gotta grind and hope you can get the bolts out to replace the springs. I wouldnt weld anything. Clean the holes and bolts with carb spray and blow dry with air..red loctite them in.
 
Thats the first time on this forum I have EVER heard to weld the bolts in. Although I am a to the bone keep it stock guy, I do read the performance mods and articles.

Where did you get this weld the bolts idea at???
 
pssssss.
they weld the SC to the rotor...hehe
i used to tack weld the bolts to keep them from backing out because certain people could break a rock.
plus lot's of loctite on the taper.
 
Get those "tack" welds too deep and your gonna have problems removing the bolts. Too weak and its just worthless anyway...not even worth the consideration to do it is my opinion. But hey if it makes someone feel crafty and more secure then what the heck.
 
there are pictures posted on this site of the SC welded to the rotor flange.
i think i will do a search in the performance area and report back...
 
blowerbike said:
carter.....here......chuck it took a little time but i found one of the threads.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...starter-clutch-Question&p=2097840#post2097840
Click to expand...
Thanks Blower. Still got the pristine big taper from several months back?

Chuck, I don't see why the rollers, pins, & springs would be anymore difficult to remove welded or not.

The welds in Bellucci's photo look like they might interfere with where the rollers engage on the starter gear, but maybe not.
 
I have never welded a starter clutch together. I do replace the bolts with grade 8 alan head bolts and red lock tight them in. Never had a problem yet.
 
99% of the customers i had would damage there S/C assembly in one way or the other from poor riding habits.
they would not listen and continued to have problems and i continued to take there money :D
 
In previous posts about starter clutch woes, I recall someone mentioning (maybe you stretracer) that my taper was worn out causing the clutch to bind. That may have been my problem all along. I've used 12-9 allens and red for years and still snapped numerous bolts and elongated dowel pin holes. Now I have a new left end and would like to join the crowd who don't have SC problems.
 
I will see if I can dig one out today & show you where to weld it. Once you weld it the breakage STOPS!! You can still remove rollers & springs. Also, I enjoy the "restoration" people commenting on the things they have ZERO experience with! It is entertaining!! LOL!!
Ray.
 
I just looked at the photos of Bellucci"s & that is NOT where I weld them! I will see what I can come up with today.
Ray.
 
I went kick start only on my 920cc '77-79 GS750, & removed the entire starter clutch, & then took a cutoff wheel to the starter gear & cut it off the hub, leaving only the hub & bearings there as to not alter crank oil feed pressures any. Extreme weight savings! Bike weighs in the 480's now with gas & oil & bigger tires/rims & dual disc, from 532lbs stock w/single disc & skinny tires! Handles way better in dieted form.
 
Well I don't have the kick start option, but have bump started many times and ran around for over year without a starter clutch. Parked on hills when I could, but live on a flat street.
 
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