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Which Clutch Plates

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
No bull bro
It can be done.
OR
Was I dreaming?
Check the tightness of the clutch basket bolt. It should have a little play but not a wobble. There is a sleeve and needle bearings in play here.
 
chef1366 said:
No bull bro
It can be done.
OR
Was I dreaming?
Check the tightness of the clutch basket bolt. It should have a little play but not a wobble. There is a sleeve and needle bearings in play here.
Click to expand...

Bill good to hear from you. It's not the clutch centre which is held by the large nut and fold down tab. It's the outer part of the basket that the fibres engage into. How much play should there be in this part which is on the wide needle roller bearing. Just a smiggin or a bit more.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Bill good to hear from you. It's not the clutch centre which is held by the large nut and fold down tab. It's the outer part of the basket that the fibres engage into. How much play should there be in this part which is on the wide needle roller bearing. Just a smiggin or a bit more.
Click to expand...
I've always had a bit of play but not a wobble. I wonder if there is a spec or a way to measure?
As I said there is a sleeve and needle bearings. Also the backing plate can come loose from the basket.
 
Steve said:
Can't answer your bearing questions, but did you know that if you had left the bike on the side stand, you would not have had to drain the oil? :o

.
Click to expand...

Steve is that for chain drive or shaft drive motors. :-\\\ I needed to drain the oil anyway as the motor has now done 400 miles since rebuild and want to get any debris out of the system before it can do any other damage.
 
Yep, also works going the other way if you need to change a stator.

Put the bike on the center stand, put a 2x4 under the left foot.

Bike is still stable, just a couple of drops of oil dribble out past the gasket.

IMG_7677.jpg


IMG_7679.jpg


.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
Steve is that for chain drive or shaft drive motors. :-\\\ I needed to drain the oil anyway as the motor has now done 400 miles since rebuild and want to get any debris out of the system before it can do any other damage.
Click to expand...
I have done it successfully on:
GS 650L
GS 850
GS 850L
GS 1000G
GS 1100E
ZN 1300 :eek:

Yep, it works on Kawasaki Voyager 1300s, too. Note that most of them are shafties, but the 1100E is a chainer. :D

.
 
Well I installed the new fibre clutch plates a couple of days ago and installed three standard new Suzuki springs and three EBC springs. The clutch lever has an increased feel to it, but not too excessive.

I then took the bike for a 300 km ride up the mountains, but it also included a lot of peak hour traffic riding to get there and back. The strange thing was that the four upper gears changed quite smoothly, but going back to 2nd from 3rd is a bit notchy. It was almost like it was a bit hard to get the transmission out of 2nd gear, like maybe the clutch plates were not completely separating. It was impossible to shift into neutral from 2nd or 1st while the bike was moving, but when the bike was stationary it shifted from 1st to neutral as easy as you like.

I noticed when i was inserting the new fibre plate tabs into the slots in the outer basket they were an extremely firm fit. In fact if the plates were not put in exactly square the plates would not go in. Maybe they are too tight in the basket slots and this is preventing them from having the movement they need to separate properly.

What do you think? Any thoughts out there?

It seems strange the upper gears (3rd, 4th, 5th & 6th) shift very smoothly, but the lower gears are much more notchy when changing.
 
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