Who's using Bandit Gauges?

[Guest]

this?

 

[Guest]

Anyone have any ideas yet?

 

[posplayr]

Anyone have any ideas yet?

Looks like you are

L blinker - find the left blinker circuit and wire in parallel
Neutral - find the Neutral should be easy from the GS1100E schematic
Oil - same as Neutral
Brights - Same as Neutral
R Blinker - find the right blinker circuit and wire in parallel

The back lighting appears to be Grey and Black/White same as the GS. That should be straightforward Black/White is ground the Grey is keyed +12V.

Get a piece of paper and pencil and match the color coding on the gauges to the GS harness . This is why I originally suggested PC paint but paper and pencil with work use the Suzuki wire color coding at the bottom of the GS schematic.

 

[Billy Ricks]

I can't seem to get the thumbnail to blow up big enough to do me any good. If you have a link to the full size image we can figure this out. I could check my wiring diagram and see if it's close. IIRC for the oil pressure switch you need a constant hot wire for the idiot light then the wire from the switch completes the ground. For the turn signal indicators you can just run wires to each of the front signals to make the idiot lights work for them. Same with your high beam. If you only have one shared lamp for both turn signals then use a diode on before each wire hits the bulb to keep current from working it's way back through all the signals.

 

[Guest]

This should be better.

So one wire will be hot & the other will be a ground?

 

[Billy Ricks]

Each of the idiot lights will have a hot and ground going to them. In some cases the ground is signal and others the hot wire is signal.

Let's start with the oil pressure light. You want the positive wire to always be hot to it. That's the orange wire with the green tracer on your schematic. You can hook that hot wire up to any switched source on your bike. If you have existing running lights that would be a good circuit for this and the gauge lighting. That would be all the light grey wires on your new gauges. The green wire with the yellow tracer on the oil pressure light gets hooked up to the wire from the oil pressure switch on your bike. On my bike the oil pressure wire is green with yellow tracer as well. Not sure about yours.

Neutral light. Again a constant supply from the positive side. You can pull this power from the same hot wire you're using for the oil pressure light. The blue wire with the black tracer will go to the wire in your harness coming from the neutral position wire in your harness. Mine appears to be blue.

Turn signal lights, look like you have two. Common ground to both then you'll have light green in the harness for right side, solid black for left.

High beam. Common ground, you can use the one from the turn signals. Then the yellow wire on the indicator bulb connects to yellow in your harness.

I'll have to look at some notes on hooking up the tach. You do want a dedicated ground wire for it, mine didn't like sharing a ground with other stuff.

 

[Billy Ricks]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=214886&postcount=7

 

[Guest]

Great thanks Billy,

I think I finally understand. Your instructions sound easy to follow. I'll see if I can get things going tomorrow & report back.

Thanks again,

Paul

 

[Billy Ricks]

Forgot to mention the black wires with white tracers are grounds on both your new gauges and your stock wiring. On your tach it looks like the solid orange is constant power from a switched source and the red wire with the black tracer gets signal from one of the coils. Black with a yellow tracer is most likely your best choice. Black with the white tracer on the new tach is ground.

 

[salty_monk]

Do those gauges use the stock GS cable for the speedo?

Dan

 

[Guest]

Yes, the use the stock gs cable

 

[salty_monk]

Thanks. Could be what I need for my 750

What year model of Bandit?

Thanks for the info!

Dan

 

[Billy Ricks]

Tomorrow if I remember I'll take a close up of the back of my GSXR gauges for you guys. I have them hard wired into my harness since everything ends up exposed. It all looks clean if you keep your leads short. With the housing of the Bandit clocks things will be cleaner. Most will either hide there or the headlight bucket. You can pick up a set of female and male plug ends to mate the Bandit gauges to the GS harness. A 12 pin plug set should be enough.

 

[Guest]

Dan, I think my gauges are 1998 1200. It will take some fiddling around to get them mounted & wired but I really like the look. I might add a gas gauge at some point.

Paul

 

[Guest]

Ok, hooked everything up, then wired all my grounds together...........nothing. Fuses checked out fine.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Ok, hooked everything up, then wired all my grounds together...........nothing. Fuses checked out fine.

That's odd, the gauge lights should at least work. You don't have the grounds hooked up to a black wire do you? Grounds are black with a white tracer.

 

[Guest]

nope only black wire is hooked up to the left turn signals. The only light working is the headlight.

 

[Billy Ricks]

If you came off the main harness things should be working. I once had a problem with my ignition switch not making contact properly in its guts and I didn't have power to lights and stuff. I'll give this some thought and get back to you.

 

[AirCooledFour]

More pictures please!

More pictures please!

I'm interested in putting late model gauges on my '77 GS750. Can you folks post pictures of yours after instal?

 

[Billy Ricks]

Paul, the bulbs are all LED's. You might possibly need resistors for some odd reason but I doubt it, there aren't any showing on the diagram. I'd seperate the leads to each bulb and test them straight off the battery. You may have gotten hold of a gauge set that was part of a major electrical failure. I had an R/R boil my battery dry once and the resulting short took out just about everything in my gauge pod.