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Why no silicone valve cover gasket if tach drive in valve cover?

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Based on a number of posts I've read, I am ordering an OEM valve cover gasket for my GS1100ED which does have the tach drive in the valve cover.

I've also read that we should not use a silicone gasket with this setup. Why is that?
 
The Real Gaskets squish out and rip making them leak. And you cant torque the bolts because of this and they tend to back out and then make even more leaks. Stay with the OEM paper gasket and dont waste the time or money on the other junk.
 
Some say the silicone gaskets don't fit properly and therefore don't seal; I don't know for sure as I always use the OEM
 
Actually the reason for no silicone gasket when the tach drive is in the cover is that it holds the drive to far away from the cam gear , and they have a tendency to strip the drive gears. But yes the gaskets also have a tendency to leak if you don't torque then properly wich is like 6 in pounds on each screw
 
I've also read that the RealGaskets are too thick for tach-drive-in-valve-cover bikes, distancing the tach drive gear too far from the gear teeth on the exhaust cam so as to not engage properly. (oops, took too long to post reply)
 
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Double whammy of reasons to just stick with the stock gaskets. I, myself was interested in them, then the reviews on the forum quickly made me rethink it..and glad I didnt go there.
 
Most 16v guys know if there is too much clearance you can have the speedo gear grind off the tach gear on the exhaust cam. This often leads to a lot of money being spent on new cams.
a lot of 8v guys use real gaskets as they must work and ther is no issue with the tach gear.
so for a 16v guy the only reason and really important reason not use a real gasket is the first mentioned.
what is hard to imagine is that with all the mentions this is not more clear and needs yet another thread to malign the topic.
 
posplayr said:
... a lot of 8v guys use real gaskets as they must work and ther is no issue with the tach gear. ...
Click to expand...
The 650 has the tach drive in the valve cover, so no Real Gasket there, please.

I installed one on an 850 that I had for a while, but sold the bike before I had a chance to evaluate how well it held up.

.
 
I got a 16v with the tach in cover.
I Installed the REAL gasket, but never got a chance to use it cause my crank case bearing disintegrated. Will be fixed shortly.
I also switch to a digital RPM So I removed the tach and plugged the hole.
I agree that you have use proper torque and tightening sequence so not to squish it as it's pretty thick and it will tear.
The first time you install it, make sure all is squeaky clean and oil free use break cleaner on a rag for the aluminum, DO not use break cleaner on silicone, use soap and water !!.
Take your time for the fit and follow the contour it has to be at the least flush.

The only thing I do not like is the faded orange/pink color, Why that color? Black would have been cooler!

I'll report back once I get my GS back on the road.

Haha I realized I was far from an answer. The REAL gasket is to thick. The tach worm gear contact with the exhaust cam will be to close to there edge, the threads will break off and you will have to enjoy a nice expensive valve job!
 
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Ordered one and was all wound up to use it... all clean and dry. Got to the dragstrip and gave everyone a smoke show from leakage.. Cleaned and replaced it 3 times at the track. No luck. Not for me on a 16 valve head with no tach...
Curt
 
I just posted a thread about engine noise and gradual loss of tach reading...think I found my answer here, I have a thick red VC gskt...
 
You need a shoulder bolt to hold a silicon gasket. It is the only way to hold a silicon gasket without over tightening it and get the proper torque to keep the bolt from loosening. Like what is used on the GS1150 and later model bikes.
 
Well my bike is back on the road. Using the REAL gasket without the tach gear installed and it does not leak. I revved it up to the red line no leaks. Mind you it takes longer to properly align it since it's to flexible. Torque is pretty simple. tight it until a light squish. go for a ride and adjust as required.I was getting ****ed off at the gasket and kind of f*ed up one of the holes where the locating pin/tube, I banged the valve cover and cut the eyelet.( never work on your bike when your frustrated) If I was to start over I would use the OEM gasket and just buy a spare one. I would never use this at the race track since it takes to much time a patience to properly align it. It's to flexible. They could sandwich a stiff mesh in the middle of it for stiffness like one of my matts I use for cooking maybe that would help and add extruding pull tabs to help in its adjustment.
 
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