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Why you MUST do a proper job cleaning your brake system

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
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SVSooke

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A lesson on why you need to take brake parts apart and clean them.My rear brake was coming on without me pushing the pedal.Wasn't obvious what was happening at first but it was gradually it got worse,to the point I couldn't push the bike myself.Could go back a bit later and all would be good.Took off the MC and once I removed the reservoir port I seen the problem.A blob of stuff was sitting over the return port.It was fluid enough to clog it intermittently The circlip on that MC was to rusted to come out so I pulled one out of the stash,took it apart and put it in the ultrasonic for a cycle.It cleaned up so nice I didn't even paint it:eek:.I rode the bike this morning,it was WAY better.
 
But I didnt read anything about cleaning the lines or the caliper inside the piston well. Wouldnt it stand to reason that if the master cylinders fluid is coagulating and making problems, then one would want to do a "proper" cleaning of an entire sytsems components and not just one at a time as they progressively mess up??? Just sayin.
 
There is no way to clean the lines. They should be replaced. The calipers should be torn down too. If there is sludge in one part, it's everywhere.
 
New SS lines and cleaned out the caliper a couple of years ago.Never did the rear MC:oops:You just have to do it ALL!
 
I bought later model calipers, matching mc's & slotted rotors for mine 2 years ago. Bead-blasted everything, painted, bought rebuild kits. Absolutely everything except new lines and fluid is sitting ready for reassembly in a box in the garage. I've been busy.
 
I did a complete re-build on my "T's" single front disk...new braided line, pads, and internals. I have a drum for rear wheel and adjusted the link.

There was gunk inside the caliper and MC...I soaked all primary parts in Safety-Kleen and put everything back together. Front brakes work great now!




Ed
 
Ed..you CAN clean the inside of the lines to a great extent. Heres how. Take the straw from your carb spray and stick it in the hole of the banjo bolt and then pinch the fitting between your fingers and spray. Youll be amazed at what comes out the other end.

Then you press the air nozzle from the compressor up to the banjo bolt as you plug the other side with a finger and shoot air thru the line.

NO this IS NOT as "right" as replacing them but they can in fact be rinsed and cleaned to a great extent inside. Point is, as I stated in my iother post, makes no sense to clean one component you find crud or blockage in and not check and clean everything else. Just playing Russian Roulette with the brakes at that point.
 
Brakes, Brakes, Brakes

Brakes, Brakes, Brakes

chuck hahn said:
Ed..you CAN clean the inside of the lines to a great extent. Heres how. Take the straw from your carb spray and stick it in the hole of the banjo bolt and then pinch the fitting between your fingers and spray. Youll be amazed at what comes out the other end.

Then you press the air nozzle from the compressor up to the banjo bolt as you plug the other side with a finger and shoot air thru the line.

NO this IS NOT as "right" as replacing them but they can in fact be rinsed and cleaned to a great extent inside. Point is, as I stated in my iother post, makes no sense to clean one component you find crud or blockage in and not check and clean everything else. Just playing Russian Roulette with the brakes at that point.
Click to expand...

This is good for annual check-ups for the MC/Caliper/Banjo. My brakes hadn't been done in ages and it showed...remember the pics on my thread?

I spent lots of quality time cleaning/wire-brushing/painting components and now I'm reaping the benefits.

You're right....no taking chances on brakes--30W Fork Oil and Tarozzi Fork Brace have also done wonders...I'm Happy! :D:D:D



Ed
 
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