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Wicked Stiff Clutch Lever

  • Thread starter Thread starter newold81
  • Start date Start date
N

newold81

Guest
My 81' GS850G has a very stiff clutch lever. I'm new to riding this year, and my clutch had is killing me.
Is there anything that can be done to make the clutch pull easier?
Is a really stiff clutch lever common on the GS?
Your advice would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Tim
 
Are you sure it's not the cable rather than the lever? You could try lubricating the cable, if that doesn't work get a new one - they're dead cheap.
 
allojohn said:
Are you sure it's not the cable rather than the lever? You could try lubricating the cable, if that doesn't work get a new one - they're dead cheap.
Click to expand...

Are you aware of any instructions on lubricating and changing the GS850 cable in the forum?
 
newold81 said:
Are you aware of any instructions on lubricating and changing the GS850 cable in the forum?
Click to expand...

I am not. You could do a search, there are a few threads on the subject. It's pretty difficult to lubricate the cable without taking it completely off. Some guys tape a plastic bag around one end, hang from that end and pour some oil in and wait for it to drip out the bottom. I have a MotionPro cable lube tool, it does a great job.
One word of note - if you end up buying a new cable it's a good idea to lube it before installing. Some, I think, require lubing.
 
AS sugested try lubercating cable first, play with lever and see if that is what was needed. If that did it for you then the cable will need to be replaced as you wont know how bad the rust has eaten it and you dont want it to snap on you while rideing.

When replacing the cable take gas tank off and any other tidbits blocking site of cable. Tie a peice of sturdy string to cable then pull from other end leaving string in original cable placement reinstall cable same way. Would be a good idea to find a pict of another cable placement on the same model bike to make sure one of the previous owners didnt mess it up on his/her reinstall. Lube cable. Now reinstall cable on both ends and adjust using adjustment near motor for most of adjustment. ( I had cleareance issues with my wrench in this area you may not but if you do You might want to cut your correct size wrench down to a stubby for better cleareance as this is somthing you will need to do throughout the life of your bike) you want a little bit of play in lever before it pulls taunt. (there is a measurment i dont renember it i just go by feel)

Is you grip still tight? Try pulling on diffrent areas of cable housing/hose to see if its binding. I have had that happen before and had to find the sweet spot for cable layout before i had good movement. You can tell good movement by the levers willingness to return to position after pulled in.

Still tight? last straw for my knowledge but some people putt heavy duty/racing springs on there clutch baskets. Though they will last longer??? They can make for a really hard pull on your clutch lever. The replacement springs are really cheap and the gasket is not bad, but you will need to drain oil to replace springs if your oil is new make sure to clean bike good and any drain containers then you can reuse oil/filter.
 
Don't even bother trying to lubricate the cable unless you know for a fact that it's been replaced recently. Throw it in the trash and pickup a new original equipment Suzuki cable (not aftermarket). The buttery smoothness of a new cable can NOT be replicated by lubricating an old one.

One problem many people have is trying to use the stock cable with lower than stock handlebars; the stock cable it too long and may bind up unless it's routed carefully. Using the clutch cable off the 79-80 GS1000S takes care of this issue since it's shorter and fits on the 850 perfectly.

Another problem with clutch pull that many newbies make is installing aftermarket clutch springs which are needlessly stiff. The stock springs are soft enough to not tire the hand, yet strong enough to hold the power. The springs sack out with age and should be replaced if the free length falls under specification (as listed in the Suzuki factory service manual). While the clutch is apart it's best to measure the friction pad thickness and rough up the steel plates so you get good clutch bite. Bottom line: make sure the clutch parts are in good working order, using stock springs and a new properly sized cable, and the problem will be gone.

Good luck
 
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I had same problem with my 550. Checked the cable routing/lube, made sure push rod and plates were flat, checked position of the push rod lever, etc... `it was the pesky aftermarket clutch springs, took 3 out and put 3 OEM in there, like a different bike now! :) Check the return spring on the push rod lever is the right one, if it is too short/tense it will also make it difficult to pull.
 
Nessim Said
Don't even bother trying to lubricate the cable unless you know for a fact that it's been replaced recently. Throw it in the trash and pickup a new original equipment Suzuki cable (not aftermarket). The buttery smoothness of a new cable can NOT be replicated by lubricating an old one.
Click to expand...

:clap::clap::clap::clap:

That is all I have to say......
 
Nemmism, Do you know if the 1000 cable you mentioned will also fit my 1100GL? I have bars that I fabricated and had to get creative with the routing to make it work b/c they are shorter. I Have gone through 2 cables in a year. They snap right at the ball in the lever, which is stock.
 
matt1100 said:
Nemmism, Do you know if the 1000 cable you mentioned will also fit my 1100GL? I have bars that I fabricated and had to get creative with the routing to make it work b/c they are shorter. I Have gone through 2 cables in a year. They snap right at the ball in the lever, which is stock.
Click to expand...

The 1000S cable works great with Daytona or Superbike bend bars. I don't know how high your bars are so can't comment.
 
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