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will breaks cause ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter jtrip
  • Start date Start date
J

jtrip

Guest
hey guys,went out for a ride today and my gas mileage went down bad i used about 3/8 of a tank going 60mph for about 18 miles to gas station noticed my brakes where dragging so i stopped and they were locking up and when i was ridding i was getting a lot of popping in tail pipes . so i releaved the pressure and and unlocked the breaks it wasn't popping as bad but was a little i put a on and off on valve on the gas line so i dont know if that has anything to do with it as well? maby if i turn it halfway open i wont get so much gas to the carbs ? AND YES I HAVE CHECKED THE OIL NO GAS SMELL IN IT lol that would be one thing i would ask but no i dont think its in the crank case
 
Dragging brakes will not cause popping in the exhaust, but turning the throttle to make up for that might have introduced a bit of extra gas that could make it pop.

First thing you need to do is to clean the return hole in the master cylinder before your brakes lock up and dump you on your face. There is a tiny little hole in the bottom of the reservoir that gets clogged up, preventing fluid from equalizing between the caliper and the reservoir when the lever is not pulled. As the fluid heats up from normal pad friction, it expands. Unless that little hole is open, the expanding fluid can only push on the pistons, applying more brake pressure, which causes more heat, which expands the fluid more, which ... well, you get the picture.

Yes, you will have to flush the brake system and bleed the calipers (again), but it's definitely worth it.

.
 
im just wondering also if im getting to much fuel from that on/off valve i put on the line ? also i sealed the carb boots on the airbox but when i put them back on they probly opened them back up could i use that spray foam in the airbox around the carb boots 2 seal them up or would that be a bad idea
 
There is nothing (besides a pump) that you can put in a fuel supply line that will make it draw fuel any faster. Adding an ON/OFF valve will not make it use more fuel.

Please DO NOT use spray foam to seal the airbox. :pray:

Are you meaing that the interface from the boots to the airbox is loose or something else in the airbox?

.
 
the boots to the air box are loose as crap they wobble around a little so i put silacone around them and from having to push them on and moving them around prob. tore the seal up some so i was just going to try to spray around the inside of the boots with them hooked up to seal them
 
Dont "jerry rig" it dude(whoever Jerry is)
If the box needs new boots then replace em. While you're there you may as well take a look at your intake boots and replace the o-rings too.
 
well i wonder where i could get some cheep if i can seem like im putting more and more money than i make in the bike lol
 
Sell it to someone who can afford the maintenance.
An unsafe bike can cost you a lot.
 
lol i dont think i will sale it i love my bike i just need more money to make up for what i need in parts
 
jtrip said:
lol i dont think i will sale it i love my bike i just need more money to make up for what i need in parts
Click to expand...

OK, then if there was enough rust scale to block the return port, there's more where that came from. Take the calipers apart, clean them completely, and replace the thirty year old brake lines. Take the master cylinder apart and clean it also.

They can, and do lock up from this, even if you don't touch the brake lever at all.
A suddenly locking front wheel will result in about as violent a fall as a bike can give you, even at low speeds it hurts.
 
Olds bikes have old parts and require alot of maintenance initially to get them to where they are manageable. In most cases its costs you more money and more time than you probably bargained for. If you like the bike and plan on keeping it long term, give it everything it needs to keep you safe on the road. If not, as someone mentioned dump it and buy something newer. my .02....
 
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