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Windjammer Edging Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter mark
  • Start date Start date
M

mark

Guest
My '79 850 has a Windjammer IV on it. The PO evidently had to squeeze the thing into a tight spot a lot and the trim on both sides of the 'jammer is roughed up and badly scratched. No scratches on the rest of the fairing.

I'd like to replace the old chrome edging with new. Original new edging is available from craigvetter.com, complete with new glue, but my problem is that I don't know how to take the old edging off. Clueless. Maybe you have to get it hot or something?

Any info. on removing and replacing the chrome edging would be helpful. Thanks.
 
Mark, I'm not sure what was used for adhesive on that later model fairing. I had several early models that used a variety of adhesives. One of mine used a contact type rubber cement, it was fairly easily loosened with toluene. Another was simply stuck in place with clear RTV silicone. Once you worked an end loose, you simply tugged it all off, then shaved off the excess RTV with a safety razor. If you try toluene, do a test application in an out of the way location if possible and make sure it doesn't soften any paint. It didn't on mine, but I think it wasn't actually painted as much as it was a color impregnated gel-coat fiberglass. I don't know if the later model fairings are fiberglass or if they shifted to an ABS or PVC type plastic. If plastic, I'd bet on paint. Personally I liked installing new trim with the clear RTV. Simply squirt a fine bead inside the new trim fold, slip it in place and hold it snug with masking tape anywhere you need for 24 hrs. If any excess squeezes out, wipe it away with a shop rag soaked in a bit of gasoline. Then again, what you buy may come with something that works better.
 
That's why I asked, We have found MEK works very well on tape residue and other adhesives. I would want to test it in an inconspicious location. It can be found in the paint dept. at Lowes and elsewhere.
 
<--- Grins at the mention of MEK. "Great stuff!" as long as ya keep it away from 99% of the paints in the world. Some catalyzed epoxy paints are about the only ones that MEK won't strip immediately. I Like MEK for adhesive removal, but you do have to be ULTRA careful where you use it.

MEK makes a tremendous carburetor cleaner in a dip basket/bucket as well. Will guaranted dissolve any type of fuel sludge and varnish. To be considered, MEK leaves a slightly oily residue after it evaporates, which is easily wiped away with alcohol, or blow-dried after dipping in alcohol or even aerosol brake cleaner.

MEK is my next to last wipe-down before painting, using isopropanol alcohol (0% water) as the very last wipe.

Be aware that MEK will also dissolve any type of plastic. ABS and PVC included. It does that so well, I have successfully made tiny batches of plastic filler for cracks by chipping up (filings almost) a small amount of the plastic desired in a metal container and mixing a teaspoon or so of MEK into it. Stir for a minute or so, adding MEK for consistency and apply like a Bondo paste. The MEK in the patch mix will actually soften the edges of the base plastic you are applying to, making the patch stick extra firmly. Anyone who's ever tried to use bondo, fiberglass resin or even most epoxies on plastic parts, know that they generally peel loose after awhile. They just don't "melt" into the molecular structure of the base plastic. This method has to be done quickly, MEK evaporates super fast and doesn't allow a lot of working time.

Lastly, MEK is a tremendous chemical and does what it does superbly. Be aware:
Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure to methyl ethyl ketone in humans results in irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat. Limited information is available on the chronic (long-term) effects of methyl ethyl ketone in humans. Chronic inhalation studies in animals have reported slight neurological, liver, kidney, and respiratory effects. No information is available on the developmental, reproductive, or carcinogenic effects of methyl ethyl ketone in humans. Developmental effects, including decreased fetal weight and fetal malformations, have been reported in mice and rats exposed to methyl ethyl ketone via inhalation and ingestion. EPA has classified methyl ethyl ketone as a Group D, not classifiable as to human carcinogenicity.
 
DaveDanger said:
<--- Grins at the mention of MEK. "Great stuff!" as long as ya keep it away from 99% of the paints in the world. Some catalyzed epoxy paints are about the only ones that MEK won't strip immediately. I Like MEK for adhesive removal, but you do have to be ULTRA careful where you use it.

MEK makes a tremendous carburetor cleaner in a dip basket/bucket as well. Will guaranted dissolve any type of fuel sludge and varnish. To be considered, MEK leaves a slightly oily residue after it evaporates, which is easily wiped away with alcohol, or blow-dried after dipping in alcohol or even aerosol brake cleaner.

MEK is my next to last wipe-down before painting, using isopropanol alcohol (0% water) as the very last wipe.

Be aware that MEK will also dissolve any type of plastic. ABS and PVC included. It does that so well, I have successfully made tiny batches of plastic filler for cracks by chipping up (filings almost) a small amount of the plastic desired in a metal container and mixing a teaspoon or so of MEK into it. Stir for a minute or so, adding MEK for consistency and apply like a Bondo paste. The MEK in the patch mix will actually soften the edges of the base plastic you are applying to, making the patch stick extra firmly. Anyone who's ever tried to use bondo, fiberglass resin or even most epoxies on plastic parts, know that they generally peel loose after awhile. They just don't "melt" into the molecular structure of the base plastic. This method has to be done quickly, MEK evaporates super fast and doesn't allow a lot of working time.

Lastly, MEK is a tremendous chemical and does what it does superbly. Be aware:
Acute (short-term) inhalation exposure to methyl ethyl ketone in humans results in irritation to the eyes, nose, and throat. Limited information is available on the chronic (long-term) effects of methyl ethyl ketone in humans. Chronic inhalation studies in animals have reported slight neurological, liver, kidney, and respiratory effects. No information is available on the developmental, reproductive, or carcinogenic effects of methyl ethyl ketone in humans. Developmental effects, including decreased fetal weight and fetal malformations, have been reported in mice and rats exposed to methyl ethyl ketone via inhalation and ingestion. EPA has classified methyl ethyl ketone as a Group D, not classifiable as to human carcinogenicity.
Click to expand...

So, You're Saying it ain't good to Bathe In? :P
 
I would use the glue it comes with !!! great stuff but use it outside. You should be able to pry the old moulding off, use a screwdrive in the moulding channel & pull. Then sand off all of the old glue, very important step!!!. TEST FIT it before you cut it & warm it up with a hair dryer A couple of extra hands help too! A roll of duct tape helps too! The part that fits under the windshield Just needs a light trim with a file- just enough to remove the chrome foil from the center.
 
removing trim cement(yellow death 3M 08001 ) use 3M trim adhesive remover part # 08984 and it wont remove paint. Used it to remove the rubber and yellow trim cement from around the doors on my 1967 vet. Dale (wont kill you like MEK either)
 
If the molding you're removing is the original stuff, I suspect it was glued on with the same "Hotcha" glue that Craig Vetter sells with the replacement molding. If you shoot him an email he WILL answer you, and who better to ask about removing Vetter molding than Craig Vetter??

Regards,
Steve 8)
 
Thanks everybody for the help and the great info. and ideas. I"ll email Craig Vetter too, and see how that goes.
 
And if you have any questions THE NEW Moulding kit comes with directions. IF you want I can email them to you
 
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