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Wireing Harness

  • Thread starter Thread starter the1pig
  • Start date Start date
T

the1pig

Guest
So this winter I am going to rebuild the wire harness due to the fact it has been hacked up one to many times and the connections are brittle.

So the question is should I use the same gauge wire to build the new harness or up grade to a larger gauge wire?

I have received mixed opinions form various people from leave it the same it was built that way for a reason to increase it larger gauge wire better current flow.

Has any one used a larger gauge wire. Also does any one know a good source for weather proof wire connectors. The 82 GS 1100 GK has several 9pin connectors I am hard press to find a local supply of this connector.

Thanks for any info.

Matt
 
I think that generally the harnesses are OK, the primary problems is the way the R/R is grounded and connected to the battery.

Both are solved by:

R/R (-) direct to battery (-) and
R/R(-) direct to closest frame ground

U cant do much better than that unless you are doing bare bones harness and minimum use of connectors.
 
posplayr said:
Duh,
Yea improve the connectors will help alot :o

No double female bullet connectors
Click to expand...

I don't think the stock connectors are bad per say, just that after all these years they tend to corrode pretty bad. Worst part about the GS electrical system is the charging system wiring as we all know.
 
Nessism said:
I don't think the stock connectors are bad per say, just that after all these years they tend to corrode pretty bad. Worst part about the GS electrical system is the charging system wiring as we all know.
Click to expand...

The double female bullet connectors are a pathetic excuse for a connector :mad:
 
I always say this, but when mine burned I got an NOS one for maybe $150 from Bike Bandit. To have all the wire still coded correct to the wiring diagram, and what you'd spend in wire an connectors... I always recommedn seeing if you can fine one.
 
Who has shipped and engine?

Who has shipped and engine?

Ok, I already know, drained, open crated, is the way to go. Any recommendations on the cheapest carrier, or advice? I sold the engine off that RF900 I bought as junk.
 
doctorgonzo said:
I always say this, but when mine burned I got an NOS one for maybe $150 from Bike Bandit. To have all the wire still coded correct to the wiring diagram, and what you'd spend in wire an connectors... I always recommedn seeing if you can fine one.
Click to expand...

+1 me 2 ....
 
doctorgonzo said:
Ok, I already know, drained, open crated, is the way to go. Any recommendations on the cheapest carrier, or advice? I sold the engine off that RF900 I bought as junk.
Click to expand...

Weird... this was supposed to be a new thread...
 
I dont now that the wire guage of any wire in the harness is undersized. My understanding that wires overheating is due to bad connections from corrossion, heat generated at the connectors.

Have seen references to some supplier of vintage connectors. Dont know what that is myself, perhaps someone else will tell us again.

.
 
I will be going to bigger wires. The stock size works but just enough. you will get more juice to everything if you go up. Go two sizes larger.
Put a relay in for the head light. You can also go to a junk yard and cut off weather pack connectors and solder them in. The stater should not have a plug. run it direct. Also you wont have to worry about burnt wires anymore. Get good automotive wires. Fine strain wire is best. The more flexible the wire the better.
 
Redman said:
I dont now that the wire guage of any wire in the harness is undersized. My understanding that wires overheating is due to bad connections from corrossion, heat generated at the connectors.

Have seen references to some supplier of vintage connectors. Dont know what that is myself, perhaps someone else will tell us again.

.
Click to expand...

They stock weather shield, bullet connectors, 2 pin, 4 pin, 9 pin etc... connectors, the same styles as on the OEM harness.
 
Last edited:
+1 for wiring Stator straight to the RR annoying to disconnect but very good... and I use spade connectors over bullets anyday when replacing connections


Subject is spelled wrong too btw:D
spelled 'wiring' :p
 
Redman said:
I dont now that the wire guage of any wire in the harness is undersized. My understanding that wires overheating is due to bad connections from corrossion, heat generated at the connectors.


.
Click to expand...

Agreed,

Virtually 99% of the harness wire guage is adequate for the currents carried. The only area of concern is that the wire size of the R/R (+) and (-) are a bit small for all the current they carry. Since the R/R (+) splits very quickly and goes to the fuze block bus after entering the harness this is not as big a deal.

On the R/R (-) side depending upon how it is connected to harness, battery and Frame can current share and avoid any issues.

Making an entire harness out of 14 guage v.s. 18 guage (Bill ?) wire for example would be a great wast of time for no reason.

A new OEM harness with properly prepared connectors and a proper single point grounding scheme is all that is required. (I'm sure I have cover this before)
 
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