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Wiring harness

  • Thread starter Thread starter BadMonk
  • Start date Start date
Along with the above post, Dime City and a few others offer basic Sparck Moto harnesses that can be tailored to your specific needs for around $200.
 
As I mentioned, I've done complete rewiring on other bikes and not doing it on this one. The easy bare bones diagrams can be cheesy, in my opinion, and lead one down a rabbit hole if you're as good with electrics as I am. (Sarcasm) Sparck Moto is more like $300 for a complete harness that mimics OEM.
 
You could rewire the bike yourself. This is the easiest explanation I've ever seen on how to rewire your bike.

http://www.bikeexif.com/motorcycle-wiring


I commented on that "Guide" about two years ago. Look for solidstatepowerbox.com


[FONT=&quot]This write-up represents a noble effort to give the reader enough information to feel confident with the undertaking. There are a lot of simplifications here, which may or may not be what you really need. For example, the author describes a harness design with a single "back bone" that means a single fused circuit. While the older bikes pre 1980 many times came with a single fuse, most UJM's post 1979 had at least 4 fuse circuits (SIGNAL,HEADLAMP,IGN, Accessory). In fact the m-Unit identified would provide all of these circuits and is designed specifically to not design as the author has described. There doesn't seem to be any notions for installing the m-unit in the article so the mention of that product here is strictly for window dressing. The m-Unit is specifically designed to avoid wiring the bike as described. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One other dangerous omission of the article is the recommendation to hook the R/R directly across the battery without a fuse. This is a serious error!!! In the event the R/R were to short out you would have the very real probability of a fire.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I should also mention something that perhaps may not be completely clear to the readers, that is that the author actually described both field controlled charging systems as was originally installed on the bike shown and then also recommended a change to an after-market Permanent Magnet (PM) style (non field controlled ) alternator. The Ricks R/R was for the aftermarket PM style alternator only. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]If you choose to use a PM style alternator (either as OEM or an aftermarket unit), I would STRONGLY recommend a Series type R/R (such as the SH-775, Compufire CF55402 or one of the CycleElectric 600 series models. With a web search you should be able to find a variety of discussions on Series v.s. Shunt in many of the popular motorcycle forums. The GS Resources is one of them. Unless I'm mistaken, the Ricks unit shown is a Shunt R/R which has been the bane of 95% of the motorcycle world for decades. Some SHUNT units are better than others (in particular the SH541 regulator with voltage sensing) but the Series models leave them all in the past behind. (see GS Stator in the signature of posplayr at the GSR).[/FONT]
 
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