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With valve clearance <.02mm, move two shim sizes or just one?

  • Thread starter Thread starter klylor10
  • Start date Start date
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klylor10

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A few of my valves have very low clearance (I'm guessing around .01 or so, as the shin still turns). I'm doing the math this morning to order new shims, and I'm wondering if I jump 2 sizes (potentially putting my clearance at ~.11mm) or just stick with one size change and a potential ~.06mm clearance.

Sorry if this is a redundant post. I did a good bit of reading of previous posts but was unable to find anything like this situation.
 
Have you done an inventory of your shims yet? If you haven't, you will need to, or else you won't know what you need to order.

If you have done an inventory, take the thinnest shim out. Replace it with a quarter, move it to each of the other places that does not have that size shim already. That will give you an idea what you will need in there.
This would also be a good time to take advantage of the offer in my sig.

EDIT: I looked on my list and see that you already have a copy, but I will leave that notice in there for someone else that might read this thread.

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Thanks Steve. Your spreadsheet was invaluable!

I have already done inventory and calculated what I would need if I were to only go a size smaller. I'm just wondering if I should go two sizes smaller or just one. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying.

Is the purpose of the quarter just to prevent the cam love catching on the cup as the camshaft rotates? Or does the size of it have any significance? To be clear: you're su

I remember reading from another forum member that you can't really check clearances after removing and swapping shims until the engine has run/cooled down.
 
The quarter is only there as a temporary shim so you don't bugger up the cam lobes on the bucket. And you should only need to rotate the motor a few times to seat the shim to reverify clearances.
 
As ratrod mentioned, the quarter is only there to keep the edges of the cam lobe from catching on the edges of the bucket when there is no shim in place. If you have one, you can also use a half-dollar, but quarters are easier to find.

Moving your thinnest shim around works like this. Let's say your thinnest is a 2.60, and it's in EX1. Let's say that EX2 has a 2.70 shim and not enough clearance to measure. Take the 2.60 out of EX1, put the quarter in its place. Take the 2.70 out of EX2, put the 2.60 in its place. Rotate the crank a few times to seat the shim, measure the clearance on EX2. If it measures good, you now KNOW what it needs. If it's too loose, again, you KNOW what it will need. If it's still too tight, you are back to guessing, but at least you know it will be less than a 2.60.

Put the 2.70 back into EX2, move that 2.60 around to any other spot that was too tight and had a shim that was 2.65 or larger, repeat the process.

Yes, it's a LOT of tedious work, but look at it this way: this is the ONLY time you will have to do this on this bike. After this, you will KNOW what is in there.

.
 
Ahh, it's all clear now, thanks.

I'm in a bit of a pickle... I need some 2.5 shims but am in a small town, and the local dealer's got none.

Here are my measurements with shim sizes in parentheses:

Exhaust 1: 0.07mm (2.45mm)
Exhaust 2: 0.09mm (2.50mm)
Exhaust 3: 0.12mm (2.45mm)
Exhaust 4: 0.15mm (2.45mm)

Intake 1: 0.09mm (2.55mm)
Intake 2: 0.03mm (2.55mm)
Intake 3: 0.06mm (2.50mm)
Intake 4: 0.10mm (2.45mm)

any ideas? Should I just run it loose? The dealer has 2.45s and 2.55, but I'm not sure what to do here. Any chance one of ya'll could ship me some 2.5 shims super fast? I'll pay!!
 
Contact Ray (member name Ghostgs1), who manages the GSR Shim Club. I am not sure what all the details are, but basically, he will ship what you need, you ship back what you don't need, along with a modest donation.

Might be slightly different, I have never used the service.

.
 
Put the 2.50 from intake 3 into intake 2, should make it about .08, perfect. The 2.55 from Intake 2 can fit in intake 3, make it about .11, which is OK for a while until you get what you need.

Sit there and think for a bit, there is a three way swap that will put everything into limits or just a hair loose which is OK. The 2.50 from I 3 into I 2. The 2.55 from I 2 into E 4. The 2.45 from E4 into I 3.

Think for a bit, there may be a better way.
 
tkent02 said:
Put the 2.50 from intake 3 into intake 2, should make it about .08, perfect. The 2.55 from Intake 2 can fit in intake 3, make it about .11, which is OK for a while until you get what you need.

Sit there and think for a bit, there is a three way swap that will put everything into limits or just a hair loose which is OK. The 2.50 from I 3 into I 2. The 2.55 from I 2 into E 4. The 2.45 from E4 into I 3.

Think for a bit, there may be a better way.
Click to expand...

Thank you! This is a really good idea. I knew there was a remedy somewhere in there but I couldn't see it. I don't have access to the bike today but will try tomorrow.

Steve: Good idea, I'll shoot him a message. If shipping will take a week or so I'm inclined to run a bit on the loose side as per tkent's suggestion, as I've been stuck in this town for a week already and need to get moving.
 
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