Wits end with lower steering bearing race

[NitroGS]

Hi Guys
I am in the process of changing the steering head bearings on my Suzuki GS1000E (1979). I have removed the forks and wheel and instruments and cables etc. I have removed the triple clamp and lowered and removed the steering stem. My model utilises the taper roller bearings. I have removed the upper bearing race using a suitable drift through the headstock. Now comes the problem I cannot see how to remove the lower race because it actually sits recessed in the headstock preventing any use of a drift because of no bite from the top. Has anybody any ideas on this one please your help is much appreciated. I am also trying to remove the lower bearing off the steering stem with no success, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[Kaptain Ketchup]

Break the cage and get the rollers off it then torch to heat it up. Hold the whole thing in a vice with blocks of wood and have at it with a drift and hammer. A bench grinder will substitute a torch. Takes 3-5 min and works quite well.

 

[NitroGS]

Thanks Mark
That worked awesome for removing the bearing from the steering stem, cheers mate. How can I remove that wretched bottom race any ideas friends.

 

[sharpy]

race

race

weld a rod across the race so u can hit the rod from thru the top. easy if u had the tools Have fun

 

[NitroGS]

weld a rod across the race so u can hit the rod from thru the top. easy if u had the tools Have fun

Sorry have no access to welding gear at all, is there any other way to remove the lower steering bearing race?

 

[Tarbash 27]

i was able to hammer a chisel in there and it actually took out the entire bearing. i reused it on a different stem. it took alot of beating in my vise but it eventualy cracked loose.

 

[hp1000s]

Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.

 

[hp1000s]

The 1000 must be the only one that has this issue with the lower race because I've never seen anyone else mention having this problem. I was a tool & die maker, and I couldn't imagine what the puller would have to look like, to yank that (tapered roller) bottom race out.
Hugh

 

[NitroGS]

Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.

Thanks for that, I am now looking forward to having a bash tomorrow, thanks for renewing my enthusiasm my friend.\\/

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I have a tool for removing the brg races, Haven't tried it yet I will be next week. She decided to **** all over from the carbs so the bike is down for some much needed maintance.
Valve adj
fork seals
Head brgs
carb sync

 

[Road_Clam]

Hi Guys
I am in the process of changing the steering head bearings on my Suzuki GS1000E (1979). I have removed the forks and wheel and instruments and cables etc. I have removed the triple clamp and lowered and removed the steering stem. My model utilises the taper roller bearings. I have removed the upper bearing race using a suitable drift through the headstock. Now comes the problem I cannot see how to remove the lower race because it actually sits recessed in the headstock preventing any use of a drift because of no bite from the top. Has anybody any ideas on this one please your help is much appreciated. I am also trying to remove the lower bearing off the steering stem with no success, any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Here's some info I did the searching for you:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=98175&highlight=steering+bearings

 

[NitroGS]

Thanks road clam, it is much appreciated

 

[Mojoe]

Just went throught this with my '79 1000.....
Used my trusty dremel with a thin cutting wheel. Cut two slots @ 180 degrees from each other in the bearing race, as vertically as possible(top to bottom of race). Use a hardened chisel directly in-line with the cut area, to crack the race into two separate pieces. You shouldn't need to cut all the way through into the steel of the head-stock. Apply a little heat to the lower outside of the head-stock, and the pieces should almost fall out, with a little urging from a thin bladed screw driver. I couldn't see a better way at the time, but I like the idea of welding in a cross-bar to hit against.

my 83 gs550 was like that....no place to find an edge to use a drift pin.
So I did like you said....dremel with a cutting wheel. 2 slots 180 degrees from each other. Then I just used a small chisel to work them loose. worked like a charm.

 

[NitroGS]

my 83 gs550 was like that....no place to find an edge to use a drift pin.
So I did like you said....dremel with a cutting wheel. 2 slots 180 degrees from each other. Then I just used a small chisel to work them loose. worked like a charm.

Eventually got that the race out used an old flywheel puller with the feet offered up to the lip of the race, inserted a geniune 19mm Suzuki spanner (sod the expense) hard up against the headstock base and screwed the tightening screw fully to take up the tension, the spanner started bending. So I used a drift from above to impact on the spanner and pull the bearings clear (see pic). Thank you everybody for all the help and advice, you are pure gold. \\/ :-D

 

[hp1000s]

Good for you!

 

[Clone]

If you can get a puller in there to 'grab' the top of the race, then there is enough of a lip that if you got a long alignment punch you could drive it out from above with hits on opposite sides, a punch and a BIG hammer is how I usually remove races.

 

[duaneage]

For what it's worth I would have taken the assembly to a dealer or machine shop and have them use a bearing press to get it off. The thought of damaging the triple tree and having to replace it daunts me. It really doesn't cost much for these types of things and it's easier.

I'm a do it yourselfer from way back but it's good to leverage the tools and expertise of those who do this everyday, at least once in a while.

 

[Clone]

If the bottom triple tree bearing is a problem, first get the outer sleeve and rollers off, then either use a torch, dremel tool or an angle grinder to cut the race, you don't have to go all the way through, then hit it with a chisel and hammer, it will crack and off it will come.

 

[duaneage]

I would be careful about applying heat and banging on the triple tree. It is a precision part that is inspected at the factory for integrity. Think about how important that part is and the stresses involved on it.

 

[Mojoe]

If you can get a puller in there to 'grab' the top of the race, then there is enough of a lip that if you got a long alignment punch you could drive it out from above with hits on opposite sides, a punch and a BIG hammer is how I usually remove races.

as practical and logical as the sounds, sometimes it just doesn't work.
on mine there was a lip.....I could feel it with my finger. However, the diameter on the head compared to the length of the head meant that the punch was too "vertical". I could not angle the punch enough to get a good "bite" onto the race....so 3 out of 4 whacks resulted in the punch slipping off the race. A few of those resulted in the punch sailing right out of my hand and shooting out the other end like a bullet. The whack to my gloved hand was the the point when I said "screw this", and dug out the dremel.

And quite honestly, the dremel with a small cutting wheel worked so well and so fast that I will never even attempt to punch one out again. It took maybe 30 seconds tops to cut each slot. I think I tapped it twice with the punch and it fell right out.

And I agree with duaneage....not a good idea to be using a torch. You have to remember that extreme heat can change the shape and form of metals. And obviously, the same with banging on it.