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wont recover from full throttle

  • Thread starter Thread starter muzakstylee
  • Start date Start date
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muzakstylee

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Ok, bike is an 83 gs1100e. Has 1166 pistons, dyna 2000 ignition, vance and hines 4/1, pods stock cv carbs with stupid large mains. It pulls really strong at full tilt and when I get off the gas it stumbles really bad in the 1/8 to 1/4 range once I get back to 1/2 or above it pulls but after hearty amount of POPs and bangs. If I roll slow into 1/4 it runs ok. It just dosnt want to cruise after full throttle pulls. Original thought was needles but I'm curious if floats may be to blame. I'm lost mikuni states floats on cv carbs have a lot to do with off idle. But what's strange is how it won't recover after hard pulls. Any ideas.
 
Have you tried running it in the "Prime" position on the petcock?

Daniel
 
Check the needle jets on the slides. If they aren't slotted to allow for adjustment someone just threw some big a$$ mains in there and called the jetting done. You can tell adjustable needles from stock by looking down the carb throat. With the slides up and the needles exposed an adjustable needle will look like a fat needle. Stock needles have very little taper and a blunt end. Without proper needles you'll never get it right. You need a Dynojet Stage 3.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Check the needle jets on the slides. If they aren't slotted to allow for adjustment someone just threw some big a$$ mains in there and called the jetting done. You can tell adjustable needles from stock by looking down the carb throat. With the slides up and the needles exposed an adjustable needle will look like a fat needle. Stock needles have very little taper and a blunt end. Without proper needles you'll never get it right. You need a Dynojet Stage 3.
Click to expand...

Sounds like jetting, but also need to check the basics (float level). Not sure about stock 34mm carbs but with 36mm BS36SS /1166 you need to be closer to 135-140 Mikuni mains and ususally higher (center of the needle e.g. 3rd groove).
 
Just checked,stock needles. I do know the bike ran pretty good in summer . But with pods and cold weather I'm assuming they wont be spot on. It's just weird to me that the bike will run 1/4 to half fine as long as I dont open her up first. Just weird that carb is cool unless you gun it . Then she fails. Gets worse as she heats up.
 
muzakstylee said:
Just checked,stock needles. I do know the bike ran pretty good in summer . But with pods and cold weather I'm assuming they wont be spot on. It's just weird to me that the bike will run 1/4 to half fine as long as I dont open her up first. Just weird that carb is cool unless you gun it . Then she fails. Gets worse as she heats up.
Click to expand...

search is your friend

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

start at step one, and stay there till step one is done, don't go beyond step one till step one is done. Also step one is one before step 2 which is step one.
 
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Thanks guys. I was almost to my wits end with this bike but I suppose I should hang there!
 
I'm pretty new to this stuff too, but (please correct me if I'm off track) it sounds like the carbs/plugs aren't recovering from being way too rich on WOT, almost like the plugs are close to fouling, and once that excess burns off it runs OK again. If the floats are stuck wouldn't gas just pour out of the vent?
 
Too rich on the needles will fowl plugs at full throttle. Ask me how I know.:D
 
Look at the 3133 Dynojet kit. The largest main in the kit may be too small for the 1166 kit.
Is the head stock?
What size main in in there now?
 
If the plugs were fouling at WFO they would start to miss while still wide open.

What you have is a fuel flow problem. WFO is lowering the float bowls to where there is very little fuel left for returning to normal mix at lower throttle. They may be too low to begin with but the fuel is not flowing fast enough to fill them back up quickly. That is why a slow roll on works. You need to check for flow restrictions from the tank. Pull the petcock and check the strainers too. And make sure your float levels are correct. and bowls are clean. Then start working on making sure the jetting is correct. Fuel flow problems can play hob with getting a propper reading on jets.
 
Ok did some pulls today and plugs show stark white after wot. mains are mikuni 167.5 needles are stock but raised and floats are 20 mm. It seams like awful lot of jet to still be lean
 
You may have too much advance on your ignition. Is the ceramic white and spotted?
Something is wrong here. I run 147.5s with a 1230 kit with oversize valves and ported.
I would check advance and make sure you are getting good fuel flow.
Set the floats at 24mm.
 
Like I said, check your fuel flow. If you're not flowing enough fuel to keep the bowls full, you're going to run lean at wfo no matter how big the jets are.
 
Ok raised floats to 23 mm today and bike ran a lot better. But It still shows lean at wot. I've been really curious on the timing cuz that's the only variable since it was dyno tuned a year ago. Everytime I rotate rotor clockwise to retard timing it runs like **** and oddly seems to want to ping. Is there another way to set timing besides using tdc and making reference from that point. My rotor is at the extent of its adj. range when set correctly. Or what I believe to be correct. Another is do I need to be using something other than stock petcock? Cuz I went to the parts store today looking for jets larger than 167.5 and the guys laughed
 
I pulled my petcock out, screen is clear and diaphragm is in intact but its real hard to turn.
 
You set the timing on the 2000 with the ignitioin on. Just rotate the crank till the light on the box lights up. I'd set it at 34 degrees. There are numbers on the rotor you line up to the mark on the plate.
I'd really consider going with a Pingle petcock. I chased my tail with a stock petcock and an 1166 kit.
 
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