Won't Start

[Guest]

Well I got the airbox on nice and tight last night. Only took 3 hours :dancing:

NOW, the carbs are not even coming close to fitting. I have brand new intake boots which are stiff, and I am using the old airbox boots.

Any suggestions on which way to attack this?

I had a 82(or was it an 81?) E and trust me, it dont seem like they go in that tight little space but they do. The air box must be unbolted and just sitting in place.
They are very hard to get in there, almost feels like you're gonna bust something. Ya really have to force em. Had to apply so much force had to have my son hold the bike so it wouldn't tip over.
But be damn sure there is nothing in the way and only use your hands( no pry-bar) so you can feel if you're hitting anything solid.
I had new intake boots but old air box boots. One of the intake boots folded(for lack of a better word)around the carb but the others were in place. I had to remove em and start all over.

Seriously, it's a PITA.

 

[GS650E_81]

I had a go at it tonight..no luck.

I unbolted the box from the frame, slipped some sylglide on the new intake boots, and the old airbox boots. I got the carbs to slide into the new intake boots, but for some reason the air box boots will not go over the carbs.

Is there such thing as having the carbs pushed in to much? My air box boots look okay, but I can't really tell if they need replaced..

I tried like hell to push back on the carbs to see if they would slide into the airbox boots but no go. I was so frustrated, I ripped everything off and am thinking about getting all new air box boots. Soooo close!!

 

[GS650E_81]

I am not sure what all I need to get for airbox boot replacement.

This site:

http://www.powersportspro.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=KUS#%2fSuzuki%2fGS650E_%281982%29%2fAIR_CLEANER%2f02710002%2f5602710015

has tube outlet in and side, which looks right.. I am not sure about RING OUTLET TUB CL, SIDE.

Also number 11 on the fiche is no longer available, which of course is the worst shape of them all...

Anyone have any idea on what air box boots I need?

 

[Guest]

I am not sure what all I need to get for airbox boot replacement.

This site:

http://www.powersportspro.com/pages/oemparts?aribrand=KUS#%2fSuzuki%2fGS650E_%281982%29%2fAIR_CLEANER%2f02710002%2f5602710015

has tube outlet in and side, which looks right.. I am not sure about RING OUTLET TUB CL, SIDE.

Also number 11 on the fiche is no longer available, which of course is the worst shape of them all...

Anyone have any idea on what air box boots I need?

Oh wow. That's very confusing. Looks like number 11, or is it 9 or 10?
Anyone?

Did you unbolt the back end of the air box assembly? Now that I see the fisch it reminds me that the battery end of the box needs to be unbolted from the electrical panel too?

I think I had to go past the intake boots to wiggle em into the box boots.

 

[GS650E_81]

I did not unbolt the back end. I do not see anyway to unbolt it.

The butterfly end fits perfect into the new intake boots, but when I push back into the airbox boots they will not go around the carbs. I think I am just going to buy some new ones. If I can find some!

 

[Guest]

I did not unbolt the back end. I do not see anyway to unbolt it.

The butterfly end fits perfect into the new intake boots, but when I push back into the airbox boots they will not go around the carbs. I think I am just going to buy some new ones. If I can find some!

Isnt there a bolt near the battery on the fuse box side?

Is the box nice and lose?

Those parts aren't available for many of our bikes.

 

[koolaid_kid]

When I did my carbs (new airbox and intake boots) I had to push the carbs into the airbox first. I struggled with trying to put them into the intake boots first and it just did not work.
Keep at it, you'll figure it out.

 

[GS650E_81]

Isnt there a bolt near the battery on the fuse box side?

Is the box nice and lose?

Those parts aren't available for many of our bikes.

I will loosen the bolt by the fuse box tonight. It was pretty loose.

I don't see how I could do the airbox first as there is no room, I basically pushed down on the carbs until I could slide them into the new intake boots. Ah well I will give it another go.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Others have claimed that heating the boots may make them a bit more supple. Never tried it myself, so this is 3rd hand information at best.

 

[tom203]

I did not unbolt the back end. I do not see anyway to unbolt it.

The butterfly end fits perfect into the new intake boots, but when I push back into the airbox boots they will not go around the carbs. I think I am just going to buy some new ones. If I can find some!

I got little hands...... Can your reach thru airfilter box and thru oval and rotate the inside airbox boots as you push on them? Even new boots get squashed easily. I feel your pain, more so in this warm weather!

 

[GS650E_81]

Yeah the garage is starting to heat up with the 78 degree weather here in Cincinnati.

Another huge PITA is the clamps, the PO is using some huge ones, they barely stay on the airbox boots. So it is just one big cluster altogether.

 

[tom203]

Yeah the garage is starting to heat up with the 78 degree weather here in Cincinnati.

Warm garage might mean soft compliant boots!
Anyway a little related humor- from Maine CL ad..... "simple fix if ur handy"

"1982 650gsl all there new plugs,wires,tires,can startwith gas in plugs will run nds carb cleaned simple fix i ur handy pipes good to 12075....."

 

[GS650E_81]

Another off the wall question..lol

Will the carbs leak if the float level is set to low?

 

[tom203]

Another off the wall question..lol

Will the carbs leak if the float level is set to low?

You'd think so, since there's less float pressure pushing up on needle seat, but as fuel dribbles in, float pressure increases- end of problem- so stop worrying about this and get some shoehorns.

 

[koolaid_kid]

No, the float will stabilize at exactly the same level in the fluid. Think of a ball floating in a fluid. Let's say 1/2 of the ball is above the water level, 1/2 below. Lower the fluid level. Unless it is touching the bottom, the bouyancy will remain constant so it will still be 1/2 and 1/2.

 

[tom203]

Since you refused to buy a toaster oven a while back... here's a idea that might maybe sorta help, see attached pic.
Find some neighbor with toddlers- lots of drinking cups like in pic- borrow four identical ones and promise to clean them.
With carb rack out of way, wedge these tapered cups into airbox boots to expand them- add hair dryer heat to soften boots and be patient , who knows what might happen.

 

[GS650E_81]

No, the float will stabilize at exactly the same level in the fluid. Think of a ball floating in a fluid. Let's say 1/2 of the ball is above the water level, 1/2 below. Lower the fluid level. Unless it is touching the bottom, the bouyancy will remain constant so it will still be 1/2 and 1/2.

If this is the case, why does the service manual say 22.4 on the float level? Mine is set to 19.4, the adjust tabs felt like they were going to snap, so I laid off.

 

[GS650E_81]

Since you refused to buy a toaster oven a while back... here's a idea that might maybe sorta help, see attached pic.
Find some neighbor with toddlers- lots of drinking cups like in pic- borrow four identical ones and promise to clean them.
With carb rack out of way, wedge these tapered cups into airbox boots to expand them- add hair dryer heat to soften boots and be patient , who knows what might happen.

Thanks for the advice. I will try this if all else fails.

 

[koolaid_kid]

If this is the case, why does the service manual say 22.4 on the float level? Mine is set to 19.4, the adjust tabs felt like they were going to snap, so I laid off.

Because the fluid is drawn up into the jets. It has to be at the correct level for the jets to function properly.
Case in point: I purchased my GPz for a song because the OP could not get any power out of it. I did a bunch of other work to it and then rebuilt the carbs. He had the float level set too low. It runs like a striped ape now.
Second case: I picked up a second set of carbs for my GS for next to nothing. The OP said he could not get them to work correctly so he gave up. I rebuilt them and guess what: He had the float level set too low. They now reside on my GS.
If yours are set at that level then you are not measuring correctly. Please read Nessism's tutorial on rebuilding carbs and take special care to understand how to check the level. It is critical on these carbs.

 

[GS650E_81]

Because the fluid is drawn up into the jets. It has to be at the correct level for the jets to function properly.
Case in point: I purchased my GPz for a song because the OP could not get any power out of it. I did a bunch of other work to it and then rebuilt the carbs. He had the float level set too low. It runs like a striped ape now.
Second case: I picked up a second set of carbs for my GS for next to nothing. The OP said he could not get them to work correctly so he gave up. I rebuilt them and guess what: He had the float level set too low. They now reside on my GS.
If yours are set at that level then you are not measuring correctly. Please read Nessism's tutorial on rebuilding carbs and take special care to understand how to check the level. It is critical on these carbs.

Granted I have no idea what the PO and PPO have done to these carbs, but I assume someone could of messed with the floats and set them to 19.4? As 22.4 should be factory, correct?

Either way I will try again to get them to read 22.4, but the adjust pin feels flimsy.