Would you adjust these valve clearances?

[littleroot]

80GS1100E supposed to be between .003 and .005 in

If you are trying to hit .004, half of mine need adjustment. Should I bother with the ones not within spec?

#1 Exhaust .0025 (no go .003)
#1 Intake .003 (no go .004)

#2 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
#2 Intake .005 (no go .006)

#3 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
#3 Intake .004 (no go .005)

#4 Exhaust .004 (no go .005)
#4 Intake .003 (no go .004)

Next question, how the heck do you adjust these? Just put a ratchet on these? I found the clearance in the shop manual but not the section on how to adjust these. Previous bike was shims 8-valve so totally clueless here.

Thanks,
-Bob

 

[Guest]

Go to BikeCliff's web-site.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Look for the "service manual" for the GS1100 for your bike, (no not the G model).
Valve adjusting procedure starts on page 3-5.

 

[littleroot]

Go to BikeCliff's web-site.
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Look for the "service manual" for the GS1100 for your bike, (no not the G model).
Valve adjusting procedure starts on page 3-5.

Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.

Live and learn. Interestingly my printed and hole punched factory manual shows a different tolerance on page 3-5, though all other text is almost exactly the same. Mine might be newer as one typo is corrected (" ead" vs "head" on page 3-6, for one).

Thanks for the pointer because I was only looking in chapter 7!

-Bob

 

[almarconi]

z1 sells a tappet wrench that is well worth the price. It is also helpful to have two sets of feeler gauges so you can put a gauge under each tappet while you measure and make adjustments. I found on my bike that the bike is easier to start when the valves are set to the looser side of the tolerance. Bike becomes harder to start as valves get tighter.

 

[tkent02]

Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.

That's not right on an eight valve either.

 

[Steve]

Well that figures: I did it all wrong. I measured like I do on an eight-valve, with the lobe 180 degrees away, measure under the cam, between the shim.

As tkent mentioned, that method is not correct for the 8-valve engines, either.

There is a certain position for the cam, then you meausre TWO valve clearances before moving anything. Move the cams to the next position, measure two clearances, repeat until done.

.

 

[littleroot]

I measured them all per the manual - what a concept!

They all will pass the .006 in feeler gauge with some good force, a couple with not a whole lot of force.

I do not have the adjust tool mentioned so I am wondering if I should bother. After all too tight is really what we are worried about and these will tighten over time, right?

Only concern is I want to recheck compression after #3 seemed low and maybe too big of clearance is contributing to this(?). Then again all measure clearance about the same and all the other cylinders have compression in spec.

So maybe I should just rip the head off and fix the compression!

Fwiw, compression measured 125, 125, 100, 125... If I did it right

 

[Guest]

The 1100 motor likes looser valves... Compression is enough... The bike needs to be ridden... If you need something to work on, come find oil leak!http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

 

[littleroot]

The 1100 motor likes looser valves... Compression is enough... The bike needs to be ridden... If you need something to work on, come find oil leak!http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

No thanks I have one on my GL

 

[tkent02]

There will always be those who will not listen.

 

[littleroot]

There will always be those who will not listen.

I adjusted them all per the manual. Seems to be smoother but only did a couple laps around the block before bed

 

[littleroot]

Got this done and sync'd carbs and it is smoother and more responsive. So happy ending.

But two problems still remain: noticeable vibration around 3500-4000 RPM and clutch is still not grabbing right. Not sure what to do about the bad vibes but I am going to pull the clutch apart and check everything since putting new springs didn't make it bite enough to do a good launch from a standing start. I think I'll go ahead and order new fibers. Need to start a new thread....

 

[Guest]

Before you do your next regular valve adjustment , order a few extra lock nuts and adjustment screws. These will eventually get tight to the point they won't adjust. I usually have to replace one set when I do my valves. I have 4 extra sets on hand just for that.

 

[littleroot]

Before you do your next regular valve adjustment , order a few extra lock nuts and adjustment screws. These will eventually get tight to the point they won't adjust. I usually have to replace one set when I do my valves. I have 4 extra sets on hand just for that.

Will do, thanks