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would you replace a stator with these readings?

  • Thread starter Thread starter don_gibb6512
  • Start date Start date
If the ends are silver they ar probably tinned, done to prevent corrosion and for a few other reasons. Cut that gasket and make us proud!
 
don_gibb6512 said:
I assumed because they were silver that it was aluminum. I never knew that copper would be any other color than, well copper. There was also no draw to a magnet from the wire so that also led me to believe it was aluminum. Do you have any suggestions on how I can test to determine exactly what type of wire it is?

Thanks for the input.

Don
Click to expand...
Well, whatever metal the wires are, they have to be able to carry electricity, that is their function. So the magnet should be attracted to them, since it emits a magnetic field. In all actuality, that is how the stator/rotor relationship works. The magnet passing by the stator leg causes a difference in electric potential energy, which we call voltage. This potential energy is carried on the wire itself, so it must have the capability.
I hope I don't come across wrong, I'm just verbalizing how these things must work IMHO.
 
duaneage said:
If the ends are silver they ar probably tinned, done to prevent corrosion and for a few other reasons. Cut that gasket and make us proud!
Click to expand...

Got the gasket in the mail yesterday but the weather is turning and I won't have a chance to get back at it before it gets colder than I'm comfortable with. Looks like it's going to wait until Spring now.
 
koolaid_kid said:
Well, whatever metal the wires are, they have to be able to carry electricity, that is their function. So the magnet should be attracted to them, since it emits a magnetic field. In all actuality, that is how the stator/rotor relationship works. The magnet passing by the stator leg causes a difference in electric potential energy, which we call voltage. This potential energy is carried on the wire itself, so it must have the capability.
I hope I don't come across wrong, I'm just verbalizing how these things must work IMHO.
Click to expand...
Not to get too confusing on this but..... Any time a conductor ( in this case, stator wires) are swept by a moving magnetic flux (produced by the rotor) a voltage is induced in the conductor. This was an observed phenomenon, enabling all sorts of neat ideas. By winding/connecting lots of conductors together , you can get these small individual voltages to add to each other.
 
duaneage said:
If the ends are silver they are probably tinned, done to prevent corrosion and for a few other reasons. Cut that gasket and make us proud!
Click to expand...


Duane, you are exactly correct. They have been tinned. Took a magnifying glass for me to view the ends of the wire closely enough to see the copper color. Good call. Phew!
 
Same Ohm readings....

Same Ohm readings....

I have the same readings on my 85 GS700. Bought the bike towards the end of the season (I'm in Michigan so we have those all you Cali people :cool: ). The guy I bought it from said that he rode it to and from work on nice days. Test drove it like 25 miles and was happy that it wasn't a bad buy for $900. On the way home though (bout 20 miles) had to duck walk start it twice! Thinking I got ripped off was fuming. Spent this money to 1) save some gas money by riding instead of driving my Ram :mad: 2) Get back on a bike again!! Got the bike home and did some preliminary testing of the bike running and only getting 6-7 volts at the battery (This was all done last season so details are a little sketchy). Parked it disgusted! Come spring now and itchin to ride again and still wanting to ride, I have started researching this problem and lead me to this great forum! (Not just kissing @$$ this sounds to be a great forum) I know I prolly need to go thru the carbs but I am just trying to figure out the charging system problem before I get too deep in this. One thing at a time.

So I figured that the stator is probably bad and am wondering if jumping rite to testing for shorts and opens on the stator is a definitive test. I open loop tested the stator leads and get ~.7 ohms between each of the three leads. I open loop test each of the stator leads to ground and get the same ~.7 ohms :mad: Is it safe to say that my stator is bad? Thanks.

I do plan to do more testing to check my other components but was wondering if it's safe to say I need a stator to start! Also, when you hit the rectifier dumping too much power back to the stator at high RPM's and frying it, does it always fry the R/R (assuming it blows diode(s)?) or does the R/R go back to rectifying whatever is now coming out of the stator wires? I am assuming that I mite have hit this problem as he just drove back roads on his work commute (think 55-60MPH) and not highway speeds (like I did when I road tested it at 75-80 for about 10 miles) and this is why he had no problems and I instantly had them :( Thanks again.
 
Most likely a bad RR. If you get those resistance readings on the stator it's probably still ok.

I offer Honda RR kits that are cheap, easy to install and renown for reliability for 45 dollars delivered.
 
dueller said:
I have the same readings on my 85 GS700. Bought the bike towards the end of the season (I'm in Michigan so we have those all you Cali people :cool: ). The guy I bought it from said that he rode it to and from work on nice days. Test drove it like 25 miles and was happy that it wasn't a bad buy for $900. On the way home though (bout 20 miles) had to duck walk start it twice! Thinking I got ripped off was fuming. Spent this money to 1) save some gas money by riding instead of driving my Ram :mad: 2) Get back on a bike again!! Got the bike home and did some preliminary testing of the bike running and only getting 6-7 volts at the battery (This was all done last season so details are a little sketchy). Parked it disgusted! Come spring now and itchin to ride again and still wanting to ride, I have started researching this problem and lead me to this great forum! (Not just kissing @$$ this sounds to be a great forum) I know I prolly need to go thru the carbs but I am just trying to figure out the charging system problem before I get too deep in this. One thing at a time.

So I figured that the stator is probably bad and am wondering if jumping rite to testing for shorts and opens on the stator is a definitive test. I open loop tested the stator leads and get ~.7 ohms between each of the three leads. I open loop test each of the stator leads to ground and get the same ~.7 ohms :mad: Is it safe to say that my stator is bad? Thanks.

I do plan to do more testing to check my other components but was wondering if it's safe to say I need a stator to start! Also, when you hit the rectifier dumping too much power back to the stator at high RPM's and frying it, does it always fry the R/R (assuming it blows diode(s)?) or does the R/R go back to rectifying whatever is now coming out of the stator wires? I am assuming that I mite have hit this problem as he just drove back roads on his work commute (think 55-60MPH) and not highway speeds (like I did when I road tested it at 75-80 for about 10 miles) and this is why he had no problems and I instantly had them :( Thanks again.
Click to expand...

If you got .7 ohms to ground that indicates a short to ground.
It is possible that one of the leads going from the stator to the harness and then the R/R is pinched, or it is a bad stator. The R/R may be damaged or may be OK, but in any case the short to ground must be fixed before doing any further trouble shooting.
 
duaneage said:
Most likely a bad RR. If you get those resistance readings on the stator it's probably still ok.

I offer Honda RR kits that are cheap, easy to install and renown for reliability for 45 dollars delivered.
Click to expand...

Even though still getting what appears to be short to ground on the stator lead to ground test as being same resistance as resistance between the leads?
 
bakalorz said:
If you got .7 ohms to ground that indicates a short to ground.
It is possible that one of the leads going from the stator to the harness and then the R/R is pinched, or it is a bad stator. The R/R may be damaged or may be OK, but in any case the short to ground must be fixed before doing any further trouble shooting.
Click to expand...

Hrm....that's what I was afraid of. More testing and checking of the wiring. :cool: I was hoping it would be somethin simple....but of course no such luck!
 
Finally got a break in the weather last weekend and finished up the wiring of the new stator and Duaneage's RR. With a new, sealed battery (which I highly recommend) the bike started right up and is now back to normal charging. Took it out and it runs GREAT! Thanks so much to Duaneage for the RR. It's going to be a huge loss not to be able to buy those anymore but understandable. Thanks Duaneage for doing that for us for so long.

Don
 
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