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Would you worry about this difference?

  • Thread starter Thread starter SuperCell
  • Start date Start date
S

SuperCell

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My 1989 Katana 750 engine has a bore/stroke of 73.5mm/44.7mm

The 2001 750 engine I want to install, has a bore/stroke of 70.0mm/48.7mm

Should I be okay as far as using original carburetion?
 
The early carbs should work fine. The jetting should be close enough that it will run okay but may need some fine tuning.
 
Yep the carbs will work fine :D no more problems than you'd have putting them on another engine with exactly the same bore & stroke eg just simple setup issues a suggested by billy ricks :)
 
Thanks.

There's a set of 2001 carbs on ebay, but looking at the pictures, it has a thottle position sensor...:confused:

How does this work? Why is a TPS sensor even there? The carbs are purely mechanical, are they not?
 
The TPS is most likely there to change ignition timing relative to throttle opening. You should be able to use your old ignitor as well. Take a look at the signal generators and the plate they mount to and see if they are similar between the two bikes. You may need to switch that out as well.
 
The tps retards the ignition in the lower gears on some later models particularly bandits, the idea is to reduce the power a little so you dont flip it, a common thing over here is to cut one of the wires in the loom to restore full power

having said that i ran my B12 with it completely unplugged for a while without noticing at all

ive not tried running tps equiped carbs on a bike thats not meant for it but as its a purely electrical device apart from a little arm that moves as the butterflies open i cant see it being a problem :D
 
Thanks guys.

If the TPS is strickly for ignition timing, I see no need to worry about the carbs not functioning properly with it unhooked. As BillyRicks said, I will simply be using my original ignition system.
 
tone said:
The tps retards the ignition in the lower gears on some later models particularly bandits, the idea is to reduce the power a little so you dont flip it, a common thing over here is to cut one of the wires in the loom to restore full power.
Click to expand...
Didn't think about that. Most newer big bore bikes have that feature.
 
Are pod filters and an aftermarket exhaust enough to cause engine damage if re-jetting is not undertaken???

Or is it just a performance issue?

If I get these carbs, I'm also wondering how they'll work with my filters and Yoshimura exhaust.

I'm not really into "tuning'. I'm content if the bike runs decent and there is no risk of burning it up.

Just check the plugs after a ride, and make sure I'm not too hot?
 
SuperCell said:
Are pod filters and an aftermarket exhaust enough to cause engine damage if re-jetting is not undertaken???
Click to expand...
yes, you are in danger of burning valves
it wouldnt happen overnight though and may not happen at all depending on how you ride and the ambient temperature

but dynajet stage 3 kit is an easy upgrade for a peace of mind and a better performance
 
If it were me I'd run the old carbs. If you want to spend money on carbs keep an eye out on Ebay for a set of RS flatslides. Probably the most bang for the buck you can get.
 
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