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Wrong oil drain bolt causing leaks?

hannibal

Forum Mentor
I went to change the oil on the bike and I couldn't get the oil drain bolt to tighten against the pan. It would screw in until seated but after a turning a little more, the bolt would loosen. If I kept turning more it would begin to tighten again, then loosen like the threads were stripped. This was my third oil change (gas in the oil) and never encountered this before. I have always used the same washer on the bolt. I tightened as best I could, filled it with oil, and went for a ride. After parking it and returning an hour later, I had a puddle of oil under the bike.

I looked at the parts fiche thinking about ordering a new washer/gasket. I noticed the pic of the bolt didn't look like mine. After finding an actual pic on Ebay, I realized mine was different. The inside of my bolt is hollow and the bolt has 4 slits in it. I don't have a pic of my bolt and this is the best my Paint skills could do (see pic at the bottom). It looks like these new hollow point rounds except there's a gap between the "petals".
bullet.jpg


Do you think this weird bolt could be causing my leak? I've heard of rounding off the bolt's head, but never stripping the threads of the oil drain. Is this bolt designed to not strip whatever it's screwed into? Guessing the PO grabbed it off another bike. I'm hoping a normal bolt of the correct size from the hardware will fix the leak, but trying to get some ideas before I drain the oil again.

oil drain bolt.jpg
 
Someone substituted a different drain bolt, most likely because the oil pan threads stripped. You need to fix the threads properly one way or another. There are various methods including drilling and tapping for an oversize bolt, installing an insert, or even using a self tapping repair drain screw. The options are up to you to figure out but one way or another you need to fix it or the bolt can fall out and dump all the oil on the ground.
 
Someone substituted a different drain bolt, most likely because the oil pan threads stripped. You need to fix the threads properly one way or another. There are various methods including drilling and tapping for an oversize bolt, installing an insert, or even using a self tapping repair drain screw. The options are up to you to figure out but one way or another you need to fix it or the bolt can fall out and dump all the oil on the ground.

Personally I'd just get a new oil pan. Easy to replace and gives you an opportunity to clean out the pickup screen and look for anything bad.
 
I'd pull the pan and then survey the damage. Problem comes in with removing the exhaust system. If the header bolts haven't been removed recently they will likely be stuck, and a LOT of people don't have enough savvy to get them out without busting a few off. This is one of those things where people hamfist their way into trouble. OP, consider this your warning...
 
Not what I was hoping to hear. Giving my outside work area, I'd prefer to swap out the whole pan rather than fix the problem on the bike. I will look into the options for repairing the threads.

Oil pans are reasonable on Ebay. I've read tons of posts about broken exhaust studs and have been fortunate to have avoided removing the exhaust. Because this it's an outdoor job, it could be a chore.

I guess i have to weigh the options. I learned about a rubber drain plug and their short term use. Maybe i can use one to get by for a few weeks.
 
Not what I was hoping to hear. Giving my outside work area, I'd prefer to swap out the whole pan rather than fix the problem on the bike. I will look into the options for repairing the threads.

Oil pans are reasonable on Ebay. I've read tons of posts about broken exhaust studs and have been fortunate to have avoided removing the exhaust. Because this it's an outdoor job, it could be a chore.

I guess i have to weigh the options. I learned about a rubber drain plug and their short term use. Maybe i can use one to get by for a few weeks.

Fixing the stripped out threads on the oil pan isn't that big of a deal. All you need is a threaded steel insert. Thread that into the oil drain, it will be a very tight fit, that is what you want. Make sure the bottom of the insert is flush with the outside bottom of the pan. Then take a small dremel grinder and cut two slots on either side of the insert inside the pan. This lets the oil to drain fully. Go to a Napa, Autozone etc and find a new threaded plug for the thread steel insert, get a couple copper crush washers. Install and tighten, no more worries of ever stripping out those threads again.
 
Maybe you didn't understand what was written, I will try to state it plainly:

Yes, replacing the pan is probably the best way to fix it, but in order to remove the pan, you WILL have to remove the exhaust system. Removing the exhaust system is one of the most problematic things you can do to your bike. The nuts that hold the pipes to the head will be stuck. Many people will simply apply more force, which will break the stud. Breaking the stud will require trying to remove it. Depending on which stud is broken, you might have to remove the head. Removing the head from the bike will require a $200 gasket set. Still with me?

Go to Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, whatever your favorite auto parts store, get an oversize, self-tapping drain plug. There are several from which to choose, I don't remember if the correct one is M14 x 1.25 or M14 x 1.5. It is actually just a bit bigger diameter (maybe M14.5) and will cut the existing threads just a little deeper. A dab of grease on the cutting threads will hold any shavings for easy removal before installing the bolt with a new gasket.

You can get that new plug in a +1 or a +2 size, start with the +1. If that's not quite tight enough, get the +2. They are cheap, just a couple of bucks, at most, certainly cheaper and less frustrating than a gasket set.

.
 
Maybe you didn't understand what was written, I will try to state it plainly:

Yes, replacing the pan is probably the best way to fix it, but in order to remove the pan, you WILL have to remove the exhaust system. Removing the exhaust system is one of the most problematic things you can do to your bike. The nuts that hold the pipes to the head will be stuck. Many people will simply apply more force, which will break the stud. Breaking the stud will require trying to remove it. Depending on which stud is broken, you might have to remove the head. Removing the head from the bike will require a $200 gasket set. Still with me?

Go to Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, whatever your favorite auto parts store, get an oversize, self-tapping drain plug. There are several from which to choose, I don't remember if the correct one is M14 x 1.25 or M14 x 1.5. It is actually just a bit bigger diameter (maybe M14.5) and will cut the existing threads just a little deeper. A dab of grease on the cutting threads will hold any shavings for easy removal before installing the bolt with a new gasket.

You can get that new plug in a +1 or a +2 size, start with the +1. If that's not quite tight enough, get the +2. They are cheap, just a couple of bucks, at most, certainly cheaper and less frustrating than a gasket set.

.
I understood what's involved in replacing the pan. What I didn't know about were the options for repairing the threads on the bike. Thanks for the info.

I pulled the current plug and noticed "1/2 T" on it. I thought maybe it just needed a M14 bolt so I picked up a standard M14 and an oversize M14. Both dropped into the threads without much contact. I'm guessing the PO installed a 1/2 (12.7mm) triple oversize. I'm on a quest to find an M14 D.O. and M14 T.O. to see how they fit. My local store doesn't have them and the Dorman brand ones are $20 on Amazon. I'm reading about threaded inserts as a plan B.
 
I found a single oversize plug from Dorman that I was able to use. FYI, a single oversize bolt from different companies may be different sizes. The Needa oversize plug was actually just under 14mm.

Thanks again for the help.
 
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