G
Guest
Guest
Good stuff Wally, looks like that hoop should do the trick nicely.
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G
Good Times
Guest
Good deal Wally. I was thinking about you and your build this weekend. Funny thing when I read my Bible now I think, "Wonder how Wally's bike is coming along?"
Nice work on the tail piece. That welding will smooth out nicely.
Nice work on the tail piece. That welding will smooth out nicely.
W
wally
Guest
Thanx! I am kind of OK with Oxy-Acetalyne, but stick welding sucks...
Managed to get a speedo cable from Suzuki dealership (for probably much cheaper than I get it made up!). Also got the cam tensioner rebuild parts. Gaskets are on order along with clutch cable.
Also looking forward to Passion Conference in Cape Town this coming Sturday - going to be awesome!
Managed to get a speedo cable from Suzuki dealership (for probably much cheaper than I get it made up!). Also got the cam tensioner rebuild parts. Gaskets are on order along with clutch cable.
Also looking forward to Passion Conference in Cape Town this coming Sturday - going to be awesome!
W
wally
Guest
Not much happened this weekend (due to limited time), but got the battery mount in place. Two pieces of angle iron in which the battery rests and held secure by a rubber bungi strap.
Also figured out placement for front indicators:
And found a generic clutch lever mount which fitted the std clutch lever (new cable on the way):
The overall look so far:
Got hold of some sodium bicarbonate (25 kgs of it!) and gonna try my hand at soda blasting some parts as well as the motor.
Next weekend will be the seat pans. :-s
Still waiting on mini gauges and bar end mirrors from China and now there arw rumours of our port workers going on strike...
The shocks are horrible and will get redone later while frame is getting powder coated.
Also figured out placement for front indicators:
And found a generic clutch lever mount which fitted the std clutch lever (new cable on the way):
The overall look so far:
Got hold of some sodium bicarbonate (25 kgs of it!) and gonna try my hand at soda blasting some parts as well as the motor.
Next weekend will be the seat pans. :-s
Still waiting on mini gauges and bar end mirrors from China and now there arw rumours of our port workers going on strike...
The shocks are horrible and will get redone later while frame is getting powder coated.
G
Guest
Guest
Good stuff Wally, glad to see an Aussie made product being put to use there too 
W
wally
Guest
Quite a productive day!
Made the lower seatpan and had to figure out how to make a recess for the frame's crossbar. Tacked it in (no comments on my welding!) and make the outer shell for the tail light housing. Used a nice el-cheapo chinese spirit level with laser sight to find the centre point on the frame.
Also got some nice tabs which I used as monts for the indicators.
And drained the oil, as I want to pull motor next weekend so the frame can be flipped to weld underneath and clean up the welds.
Made the lower seatpan and had to figure out how to make a recess for the frame's crossbar. Tacked it in (no comments on my welding!) and make the outer shell for the tail light housing. Used a nice el-cheapo chinese spirit level with laser sight to find the centre point on the frame.
Also got some nice tabs which I used as monts for the indicators.
And drained the oil, as I want to pull motor next weekend so the frame can be flipped to weld underneath and clean up the welds.
B
Bevo
Guest
Nice project and work so far!
I was born in Cape Town but came to Canada at 2, need to visit and see my heritage some day.
I was born in Cape Town but came to Canada at 2, need to visit and see my heritage some day.
G
Guest
Guest
Love it Wally, I really like how you did the tail light, very neat.
And don't worry about your welds, you ain't seen mine...
And don't worry about your welds, you ain't seen mine...
G
Good Times
Guest
Great job Wally.
W
wally
Guest
Thanx Bevo - give me a shout when you make it out here!
Pete, I only have a stick (arc) welder and oxy-acetylene set.
I am more comfortable with the oxy-acetylene, but the oxy regulator is trashed, so I will have to get that fixed.
More work this week - it was such an achievement to get it all right and not messing up the rear hoop.
Pete, I only have a stick (arc) welder and oxy-acetylene set.
I am more comfortable with the oxy-acetylene, but the oxy regulator is trashed, so I will have to get that fixed.
More work this week - it was such an achievement to get it all right and not messing up the rear hoop.
B
Bevo
Guest
Do yourself a favour.. get the details off your welding machine if its AC or DC then go to the welding shop.
Ask for 3/32 7024 rods, these you can leave directly on the metal and it won't stick, see below from Miller Welding.
Q: What Type Of Rod Should I Use For General Work On Steel?
A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel (leave a nickel-width land on the bottom of the groove) and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018. The 7024 rod is perhaps the easiest to use. Also known as a "drag rod," this electrode's thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length, which allows you to drag the rod directly along the work piece.
Ask for 3/32 7024 rods, these you can leave directly on the metal and it won't stick, see below from Miller Welding.
Q: What Type Of Rod Should I Use For General Work On Steel?
A: Common electrodes used for general work include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties: 6010 electrodes penetrate deeply, while 6013 electrodes penetrate less. For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (say for a hitch), use a 7018 rod. For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel (leave a nickel-width land on the bottom of the groove) and make multiple passes. Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018. The 7024 rod is perhaps the easiest to use. Also known as a "drag rod," this electrode's thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length, which allows you to drag the rod directly along the work piece.
W
wally
Guest
Thanx - I'll see what our local guys have to offer.
My regulator turned out to be fine - which I am not so sure of, but anyhow, I'll give it another bash this weekend.
My regulator turned out to be fine - which I am not so sure of, but anyhow, I'll give it another bash this weekend.
W
wally
Guest
Got my first parts from ebay!
Mini warning lights, as I won't use my standard gauges I needed something to replace them with. Not sure how I am going to mount them...
Still waiting for speedo, tach and mirrors...
Mini warning lights, as I won't use my standard gauges I needed something to replace them with. Not sure how I am going to mount them...
Still waiting for speedo, tach and mirrors...
W
wally
Guest
And some more!
Mini tach arrived yesterday. Only $24 - about 1/2 of what we would pay here.
Looks like nice quality - not flimsy, thin metal.
Still waiting on mini speedo and bar end mirrors to arrive.
Can't wait for the weekend to do some more work!
Mini tach arrived yesterday. Only $24 - about 1/2 of what we would pay here.
Looks like nice quality - not flimsy, thin metal.
Still waiting on mini speedo and bar end mirrors to arrive.
Can't wait for the weekend to do some more work!
G
Guest
Guest
Good stuff Wally! Nice to get some parts in ain't it?
For the idiot lights... a simple sheet of aluminium bolted under the handlebar clamp bolts and cut to go around the ignition switch would do the trick nicely I reckon.
For the idiot lights... a simple sheet of aluminium bolted under the handlebar clamp bolts and cut to go around the ignition switch would do the trick nicely I reckon.
W
wally
Guest
Exactly my thought!
Also thought about mounting it between the 2 holes for speedo/rev counter.
Will only really know for sure once I have the speedo, so I can see what it will look like.
Finishing up the bottom seat pan this weekend and doing the top seat pan as well. And have to figure out where to mount R/R, etc.
Not enough space between the 2 seat pans.
Also thought about mounting it between the 2 holes for speedo/rev counter.
Will only really know for sure once I have the speedo, so I can see what it will look like.
Finishing up the bottom seat pan this weekend and doing the top seat pan as well. And have to figure out where to mount R/R, etc.
Not enough space between the 2 seat pans.
G
Guest
Guest
Well I'm sure you've seen mine, but I made my dash mounting bracket based on the shape of the stock gauge mount, so that's definitely doable.
W
wally
Guest
Yip, need to sit down and figure it out.
It was a terrible weekend though. Nothing, NOTHING worked out as planned.
I am sure the gas welder is not functioning correctly, as the oxygen regulator only wants to kick in around 50kpa. I have the right size nozzle for the thickness of plate, but previously I used to weld at around 15kpa. Kept blowing holes...
Didn't even finish up the bottom pan, never mind start on the top pan...
Did however figure out how to mount it and my brother-in-law helped me pull the motor. Now at least I will be able to remove everything and flip the frame around to weld in the hard to reach places.
It was a terrible weekend though. Nothing, NOTHING worked out as planned.
I am sure the gas welder is not functioning correctly, as the oxygen regulator only wants to kick in around 50kpa. I have the right size nozzle for the thickness of plate, but previously I used to weld at around 15kpa. Kept blowing holes...
Didn't even finish up the bottom pan, never mind start on the top pan...
Did however figure out how to mount it and my brother-in-law helped me pull the motor. Now at least I will be able to remove everything and flip the frame around to weld in the hard to reach places.
H
hjacobmiller
Guest
Don't know if you're going the clip on route, but look at the second picture in this thread.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=185193
The bolt holes from where he ground down the original handle bar mounts might make an interesting new location for your lights...
Good work. Following along.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=185193
The bolt holes from where he ground down the original handle bar mounts might make an interesting new location for your lights...
Good work. Following along.
W
wally
Guest
Thanx! I am going with drag bars pictured, but I see what you mean! It would make a great spot...mmmm...
