Yet another Coil Relay Mod (with Dyna S)

[posplayr]

Well I did a Coil Relay Mod on my GS1100ED and as I thought about how to do it, I did not want to butcher my harness or really add any non OEM looking wiring.

I might have over though this, but I think the result are pretty clean and I know how some of GSR's like to keep it clean.:-#

Note: There is no reason to dissturb the wiring at the coils using this method. The coils are powered by the original harness from the ignitor connector to the coils using the O/W wires.

EDIT: Note the pdf on page 3/7 shows LH switch It should read RH switch

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff1/images/DynaS_Coil_RelayMod.pdf


Enjoy

Pos

Edit:

For anybody in the US these Tyco Relays (formerly Bosch) are apparently environmentally sealed and really are only marginally more expensive.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-070


Some background on Relays.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1157758#post1157758

 

[yaddy]

Hey Pos,

That's one very informative and well laid out description of "how to".
Can i ask, would this work on my 650Kat too? I've seen people talk of the relay mod many times but i wonder, is it something to do as a "must have" or is it something you guy's do when somethings failed or failing?

While my bikes in the project stage and i'm currently at the point of renewing and replacing / modifying wiring, would you consider this to be a "must do" mod? Would you recommend any other electrical mods that would be beneficial to carry out at this early stage of my build? I have standard coils and electronic ignition.

TIA for any comments, ta.

 

[posplayr]

Yaddy

Yaddy

Thanks for you kind comments.

The only real answer to your request is a set of overall Electrical Health recommendations to supplement the material already posted and to pull things together into one place.

I have recently done several posts, but I'm thinking now that I have gotten feedback on a bunch of this stuff, I can pull it all together and summarize a specific set of recommendations.

Of course in the interim do your "Power and Grounding"

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140109

Jim

 

[yaddy]

Hey Jim,

Ya, i've seen a few of your posts about electrickery, and been amused at some of the arguments, i mean, debates you get into on the subject. I love the diagrams and stuff that always acompany your posts, it's all just above my head though, .

Bribird has already given me a few pointers on the grounding, i was just wondering for instance:

If you bought a brand spanking new GS from a time-capsule with no known faults, would you consider any electrickery mods to still be worthy. If so, these are what i'd like to carry out while i've got an open loom to mess with. (i'm not insinuating that my bike is brand new or anything, just that i don't know of any faults as yet, having never ridden it).

I'll take a look at that link you offered and see what else i can find, many thanks for your reply.

 

[posplayr]

Yaddy

Yaddy

here is a picture where you can see the blue end grounds for the harness ring lugs restored as well as all of the single point leads from the R/R mount. The only other things missing from when I took the pic was a ground to frame ground.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=140739

Besides these grounds make sure your fuse box is clean and that is the bulk of it.

A FH012AA would also be nice
This represents new technology and is arguably a breakthrough considering the many limitation/compromises of the GS charging.; RustyBronc was working on a full list of alternates. Most of the bigger modern Yamahas use it. including 2006+ FJR's . Check the first couple posts in that link. Matchless has also be compiling the larger list.
I have paid about $75 when I find one. Rusty has gotten them for as little at $25. Just gotta look.
Jim

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...9&postcount=81

 

[Guest]

What a bunch of gobbley goop! *

 

[rustybronco]

Matchless has also be compiling the larger list.
I have paid about $75 when I find one. Rusty has gotten them for as little at $25. Just gotta look.
Jim

How about a FH011AA (FET, tall finned model) for 12.50 'ish plus shipping on the 'bay... missed it by that much. (sorry Matchless)

I hooked up my FH010AB FET r/r... all the chassis grounds (loads) connected to the frame, r/r negative y'ed to the battery negative and to the frame (12 Ga).
no more chassis (load) negatives to the battery.

I replaced the original bullet connectors at the stator, with new "good quality" bullets. dropped the un-necessary loop to the headlight. all connectors were crimped, soldered and shrink tubed.
I even put the stator connections back in the original clear sleeves.

now all I need is a stator core to rewind to a heavy duty equivalent. (yes my oem works fine) and we-be a testin'.

***Back to your regularly scheduled thread...

 

[oshanac]

Thanks Posplayer. Great job on the pictorial!

 

[posplayr]

oshanac

oshanac

Thanks for the Kudos, if there is anything unclear in the explaination or would help let me know, I can add it to the description.

It might have to be adapted for other models depending upon how much they deviated from the 80-83 750/1100's.

Pos

 

[jyck]

Thanks! I will consider the relay mod.

 

[kb_air]

whats the benefit..

 

[1_v8_merc]

I only spent $10 on my coil relay mod.
(Just a fresh spool of 14ga wire.)
Everything else I had laying around.

Even my relay came from a junk car.
(I believe in recycling all automotive stuff whenever possible.)


I made the mistake of using solid copper wire instead of automotive wire...so I crimped, soldered, wrapped and then taped, then insulated again.

The bike never ran so good!

 

[Steve]

whats the benefit..

Some bikes have particularly dirty wiring harnesses. After travelling through all the dirty connections, the voltage at the coils might be several volts less than battery voltage. The coil relay mod basically bypasses all those connections by using a relay to run power straight from the battery (through a fuse, of course) to the coils. The relay is switched by the wires that used to power the coils, so everything operates just like it should.

Bottom line: if your coil voltage is really close to battery voltage, you won't notice any improvement.

.

 

[posplayr]

Some bikes have particularly dirty wiring harnesses. After travelling through all the dirty connections, the voltage at the coils might be several volts less than battery voltage. The coil relay mod basically bypasses all those connections by using a relay to run power straight from the battery (through a fuse, of course) to the coils. The relay is switched by the wires that used to power the coils, so everything operates just like it should.

Bottom line: if your coil voltage is really close to battery voltage, you won't notice any improvement.

.

One data point on my GS1100ED with new harness, new ignirion switch , new right hand control within a year I was seeing only 10.5V at the coils with 12.8V at the battery and the bike was getting harder and harder to start (even with Accel blue spark coils). After the mod it starts instantly.

 

[Guest]

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, Jim, but a couple quick questions:

#1. Do you still recommend powering the 12v relay from the "aux" output on the stock fuse block? I plan to do this, since the relay will be mounted on the electrics plate, using one of the factory R/R mounting holes and it makes for a shorter (& neater) wire run.

#2. The relay will be protected via the main fuse, so the 12v lead from "aux" (+) to the 30 pin won't need to be protected by an inline fuse, correct?

I am finally beginning the install of the shiny new OEM harness & I don't want to bugger it up with any dumb mistakes.

I have a 12g fused line (30A fuse) which fits perfectly, and also made a 12g un-fused wire to fit as well.

I also plan on doing the RH switch mods detailed here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...s1100ez-ed-relay-mod-tips&highlight=relay mod

Also have a new stator from Rick's & SH775. Stator will be wired directly to the R/R, and am also using a SPG. Just in case you were wondering

 

[posplayr]

I know I am resurrecting an old thread, Jim, but a couple quick questions:

#1. Do you still recommend powering the 12v relay from the "aux" output on the stock fuse block? I plan to do this, since the relay will be mounted on the electrics plate, using one of the factory R/R mounting holes and it makes for a shorter (& neater) wire run.

#2. The relay will be protected via the main fuse, so the 12v lead from "aux" (+) to the 30 pin won't need to be protected by an inline fuse, correct?

Mike

The Aux output is good. Actually the Aux is protected by it's own fuse and the Main has nothing to do with it. If you are spade type fuse box with diagonal tabs then you should be able to clean it and be as good as any other inline fuse holder.

I started off using the Aux port. While doing some harness surgery I powered the relay with an inline fuse direct from the "T". I accessed that point for a volt meter as well.

This was all before eventually going to the SSPB.

Jim

 

[Guest]

Sweet.

The fuse block is about two years old...it is a factory Suzuki fuse block with the diagonal tabs. Going to pull it out and give it a good hosing down with De Oxit, and replace all the fuses.

Just thought of another question:

I am really trying to make all these mods as clean and neat as possible...I hate wiring rats' nests.

Would grounding the relay @ the aux (-) defeat work to defeat the purpose of the SPG? Grounding to the aux (-) would mean a nice short 4" wire tucked nicely out of the way. Running the ground to the SPG @ the R/R would mean a ground about 8-10".

I will endeavor to get a photo of what I have run so far and post it here.

Here we go...in this photo I have the ground for the relay run to aux (-).



The fused link to pin #30 has since been replaced with a 12g red wire sans fuse.

 

[Guest]

Here is another:



I wanted to use the Triumph harness, so the R/R wouldn't fit in the stock location due to the plug shells. However, it fits nicely on the back of the plate (flipped upside down). Plenty of clearance for the seat, and the rear mounting hole for the air box is right there for a nice short frame ground from the SPG on the 775.

Thoughts? Critiques? Suggestions?

 

[posplayr]

Sweet.

The fuse block is about two years old...it is a factory Suzuki fuse block with the diagonal tabs. Going to pull it out and give it a good hosing down with De Oxit, and replace all the fuses.

Just thought of another question:

I am really trying to make all these mods as clean and neat as possible...I hate wiring rats' nests.

Would grounding the relay @ the aux (-) defeat work to defeat the purpose of the SPG? Grounding to the aux (-) would mean a nice short 4" wire tucked nicely out of the way. Running the ground to the SPG @ the R/R would mean a ground about 8-10".

I will endeavor to get a photo of what I have run so far and post it here.

Here we go...in this photo I have the ground for the relay run to aux (-).

View attachment 37123

The fused link to pin #30 has since been replaced with a 12g red wire sans fuse.

The ground for the relay doesn't have much bearing on anything. It is on all the time when running but is only like 40 mAmps. Grounding to the fuse box is like grounding to the B/W which is coming back to your SPG anyway.

Since all your wires are all cut to length the SPG could be anywhere on the mounting plate. I would put the SPG so your harness B/W can be in the same stack.

If the fuse box is grungy, I use naval jelly and wash with water then treat with the Deoxit.


Looks clean, do you have a picture of the R/R on the other side? No battery clearance issues?

 

[Guest]

Thanks again, Jim!!

I'm not sure if I have a photo of the backside with the plate in place, but there aren't any clearance issues with the battery. I'll check. If I don't, I will see about taking a photo this evening with the battery in place after I get home from work.

The fuse box is actually quite clean, but I am going to give it a once over just to be thorough.