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Yet another fuel question

  • Thread starter Thread starter bigs_gs
  • Start date Start date
B

bigs_gs

Guest
Ok so I have done just about everything and now I feel like a complete moron. I had my carbs rebuilt. Engine still runs bad. Guy told me engine was shot so replaced it.... Still runs bad. I replaced the intake boots thinking there might be a leak..... still runs bad. So, I rebuild my carbs again and really clean every crevice so that them suckers sparkle like paul wall's teeth..... still runs bad. But what the guy that worked on my bike failed to tell me, either cause he don't know what he's doing (what i think) or by just plain forgetfulness, is that it won't run higher than an idle without the airbox on it!! Today when I put the carbs back on and tried to start it, it wouldnt run above an idle without popping or firing so I figured I'd try putting the airbox back on just for the hell of it. Well it didn't go on so well but i pressed it against the carbs while it was idling and tried to rev it up and voila it reved up for the first time since i owned it.

So my question is this. Will the airbox being off cause the symptoms that I described above and also if i use the air filters that go on each individual carb will it cause the same problem if I dont rejet. I'm using those black pod filters. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Thats your problem. None of the GS models will run without the airbox and removing the airbox and installing pod filters requires rejetting. I would re-intall the stock airbox and filter element and forget about it. It will run smoothly and trouble free.

E.



bigs_gs said:
Ok so I have done just about everything and now I feel like a complete moron. I had my carbs rebuilt. Engine still runs bad. Guy told me engine was shot so replaced it.... Still runs bad. I replaced the intake boots thinking there might be a leak..... still runs bad. So, I rebuild my carbs again and really clean every crevice so that them suckers sparkle like paul wall's teeth..... still runs bad. But what the guy that worked on my bike failed to tell me, either cause he don't know what he's doing (what i think) or by just plain forgetfulness, is that it won't run higher than an idle without the airbox on it!! Today when I put the carbs back on and tried to start it, it wouldnt run above an idle without popping or firing so I figured I'd try putting the airbox back on just for the hell of it. Well it didn't go on so well but i pressed it against the carbs while it was idling and tried to rev it up and voila it reved up for the first time since i owned it.

So my question is this. Will the airbox being off cause the symptoms that I described above and also if i use the air filters that go on each individual carb will it cause the same problem if I dont rejet. I'm using those black pod filters. Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
 
Should you choose to do the pods anyway, make sure you use K&N. They are the only brand with documented successful tuning. Follow the instructions EXACTLY and you will probably be okay. Otherwise you'll be hearing a bunch of moans and groans when you are back here asking why your bike runs like crap again.:-s
 
You bought another engine because you didn't install the airbox?
Find a new mechanic. Better yet learn to wrench yourself.
Wow, that really sucks:?
 
earlfor said:
Thats your problem. None of the GS models will run without the airbox and removing the airbox and installing pod filters requires rejetting. I would re-intall the stock airbox and filter element and forget about it. It will run smoothly and trouble free.

E.
Click to expand...

I agree with Earl. When you've got 4 carbs to deal with, getting away from the stock breathing system can be a nightmare. (If you've got a HD, you can re-jet in 5 minutes!!).
 
Using the search feature on this site has saved me hundreds (perhaps thousands) of dollars. The bit about the airbox being essential is discussed in probably hundreds of posts. Those same posts usually discuss other essentials. Check 'em out.
 
So if I do go pods (already ordered them before reading), DOH , What jets would I need?
 
I can't really help you with the jets, but.......

If you dont want them pods :-D .....:-\"


I know someone who might want to take them off your hands, (if they are 53mm ID)

Nick
 
My best advice is if you were hopping up a 1000 or an 1100, you would see a noticable improvement in power with pods. The 850 produces about the same power as a 750 and gains will be small. Not enough to be worth the time and effort to me. Go back to the stock airbox and filter. That is by far the best choice. However, if you insist on pods, bite the bullet and buy the K&N pods and their matching jet kit. You are wasting your time and money with the emgo type pods as you will be hit/miss trying to guess jetting and unless you are lucky enough to the that one person in 1000, the bike will at best run so so, but more likely like crap with them. No flames here, you asked, there ya go. Its your bike, money, and time and you can spend the time riding or cussing, yer choice. LOL

E.


bigs_gs said:
So if I do go pods (already ordered them before reading), DOH , What jets would I need?
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
Thats your problem. None of the GS models will run without the airbox and removing the airbox and installing pod filters requires rejetting. I would re-intall the stock airbox and filter element and forget about it. It will run smoothly and trouble free.

E.
Click to expand...
None of the CV equipped GS's will run well without the air box.
The VM equipped GS's run well without any air box or filters at all. Obviously, you'd have to re-jet.
Not trying to be picky-picky or yank your chain Earl. Just clarifying.:)
 
The VM comment may be true most of the time, however on my 79 750 although it would run without the airbox, by no stretch could I say it ran even decently well without the box using stock jetting. I stick to my original statement. All GS's need rejetting to run properly without the airbox.

E. heheheh



KEITH KRAUSE said:
None of the CV equipped GS's will run well without the air box.
The VM equipped GS's run well without any air box or filters at all. Obviously, you'd have to re-jet.
Not trying to be picky-picky or yank your chain Earl. Just clarifying.:)
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
The VM comment may be true most of the time, however on my 79 750 although it would run without the airbox, by no stretch could I say it ran even decently well without the box using stock jetting. I stick to my original statement. All GS's need rejetting to run properly without the airbox.

E. heheheh
Click to expand...
I'm not contesting the re-jetting being necessary if you make ANY intake changes, CV or VM carbs. That's obvious.
I'm saying the VM equipped bikes will run well (considering they're momentarily running lean) with the box removed. They will rev and idle, and in fact make more top end power without any filtration at all. The CV equipped bikes will run poorly without the box.
 
Ok so on a cv bike its best to just run the airbox right? Well I guess my next question is----> are the airbox boots supposed to be hard as coal and is the part that goes on the carbs supposed to be cone shaped. If not I guess its back to the parts store.
 
The cone shape to the boots are right. The hard as coal might be a problem. So long as your Very carefull putting the air box back on so you don't crack the rubber. It the rubber is still intacked them being hard won't harm the preformance.
 
Well my problem is that even if I remove the boot completely from the airbox and try to put it on the carb it still doesn't go all the way to the stops on the mounting surface no matter how much force I apply. They still possess a small amount of malleability but the way they fit its like they weren't even made for my carbs.
 
New carb boots will be very pliable and can be easily fitted over the carb intakes. Go for the new boots. Its a near impossible battle to make a square lump of coal stretch over a round hole. LOL

E.


bigs_gs said:
Well my problem is that even if I remove the boot completely from the airbox and try to put it on the carb it still doesn't go all the way to the stops on the mounting surface no matter how much force I apply. They still possess a small amount of malleability but the way they fit its like they weren't even made for my carbs.
Click to expand...
 
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