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YOSHIMURA 4-1 Help

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
seen my YoshiMuzzy?

seen my YoshiMuzzy?

Tony Thanks,
I guess I could mention that I did finish repacking my GSXR Muzzy can with a Yoshi RS-3 baffle and SS wool I got both off of e-bay. It was a little tough to cut that baffle as it was not any kind of mild steel I've seen before. Very hard metal that was a chore to cut even with a diamond tipped Makita blade(no way to do it with a hack saw). I'll post up some pics of the fit a little later.

Pos
 
76FJ55 said:
Actually that bottom core looks like the one I had in a Yosh megaphone a number of years ago. the header tubes on it were bashed so I discarded them I kept the can in the basement for years. I may still have it but if I do it is at our old house in St. Louis. I will probably be back there over thanksgiving so if you don't have this rectified by then I'll look for it. I can tell you ir isn't an exact match to the pipe you have but it may work. On mine the baffle endcap actually fit over the outside of the can not inside like yours currently is.
I do not believe it is a Kerker. I also had a Kerker in the same time frame as the Yosh Mega. the Kerker has a coned endcap but the edges are sharper and it fits inside the pipe not over it.

If you havent resolved this by the week of thanksgiving PM me as a reminder to look.
Click to expand...
You may be right, the baffle in my what i believe to be a Kerker has been cut down a bit from stock and bent over slightly. I will try to get some pics. The header to collector section is REALLY long compared to most of the pipes i have, and its HUGE at the collector. It needs some cleaning up, but i think it will work great for the 78 750 superbike project i will eventually get going...
 
Gentleman, fantastic links! Just read through Hoomgars DIY with steel wool. Great to know! I also checked cyclewareables out really quick....what a selection! I appreciate all the help!
 
as promised here are the pics of the yosh baffel

3001879616_1e41f343f9.jpg


from my 3.5" yosh megaphone

3001040113_0827c21fa6.jpg


like someone said you will need to drill out the rivets so the baffel can slide past other wise it will get hung up on it. Also your not going to be able to push the baffel out from the back side. You will need some sort of L or hook shaped peice of metal you can stick through the baffle and hook the inside of and then just use it like a slide hammer and drive the baffel out.
 
Billy Ricks said:
A complete system will fetch a pretty penny. If I were you I would try to get someone to measure the midpipe diameter on a Kerker to see if it would work. I used to have one on my bike but I sold it when I got my Yosh Duplex.

This is who bought my Kerker, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/member.php?u=90 . He might still have it if you PM him to get a measurement.
Click to expand...

Hey Billy, I do still have it, and still use it. 2.5 inches is the diameter.
 
I'm running an original Kerker header/megaphone,
and the O.D. of the collector 2.950"(just measured it so I could buy a nice S.S. T-bolt clamp for it)...so the I.D. of a tailpipe/muffler would have to be right around 3.00".
 
Maro will be bringing this beast to my house on Sunday and we will resolve the issue. I can fix anything.
 
isleoman said:
The Economy is waiting for you my friend.
Click to expand...
Don't get me started, that's for off topic.

My neighbor has welding equipment and he re-welded the exhaust cans on a Yamaha 500 Virago. Did a great job, they look great. I can cut new pieces and we will build a new baffle for it since it may not be easy to get new parts ( nor cheap)
 
Baffling

Baffling

I went through the same issues. my dad an I took a piece of muffler pipe 1 ? ? and cut it to what we though was
The right length then we put it on the drill press and drilled a bunch of holes (for the exhaust to pass and muffler pipe was thick enough to weld to) we then went to our buddy at a local machine shop and had him cut us two pieces of 1/8 ? steel on his laser in a circle to fit the diameter of the inside of the can .then we drilled both pieces in the middle that he cut and used our die grinder to open the caps to our preferred size. we then welded the two ends to the muffler pipe and mounted tabs where the existing holes were in the can (to mount the new baffle to the can ) we used new fiberglass baffling material and bolted it in the thing sounds great and has held together for the last two years. the total cost was under 20 bucks
 
I made a trip to STL this weekend short trip but had enough time to find my old Yosh pipe still stored under the stairs where I left it. If you're still looking for baffle I have one. Don't know if I'll here back from you before I get back on the road to head back to Tulsa so I'll throw it in the car. Let me know if you need it.
 
76FJ55 said:
I made a trip to STL this weekend short trip but had enough time to find my old Yosh pipe still stored under the stairs where I left it. If you're still looking for baffle I have one. Don't know if I'll here back from you before I get back on the road to head back to Tulsa so I'll throw it in the car. Let me know if you need it.
Click to expand...

thanks for grabbing this. I'm really curious to see it and to know the dimensions.

Duaneage and I (mostly Duane :rolleyes:) spent all day yesterday fabricating a new baffle for my Yosh. I WILL BE CREATING A DIY for this as it worked out nicely and we used only 3 parts from Lowes. no welding was necessary. some grinding, drilling and some muscle was all that was needed.

I have a bunch of photos, but here is a quick shot for now with some captions of the parts


FYI- Bike pictured is duanes Yamaha, not my GS...it just happend to get into the shot.

bafflewithtext.jpg
 
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It will be interesting to see how that baffle works for you. It looks extremely restrictive to me, but I guess the berformance results will tell. I will try to get mine pulled out of the pipe but it may not be till tomorrow. I'll have to figure out how to post photos when I get it pulled. I'll also get you all the dimensions for you when I get it pulled. I'm anxious to see how yours performs. What are you using for packing material, and how much did it weigh when you where done building it.
 
76FJ55 said:
It will be interesting to see how that baffle works for you. It looks extremely restrictive to me, but I guess the berformance results will tell. I will try to get mine pulled out of the pipe but it may not be till tomorrow. I'll have to figure out how to post photos when I get it pulled. I'll also get you all the dimensions for you when I get it pulled. I'm anxious to see how yours performs. What are you using for packing material, and how much did it weigh when you where done building it.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention that I had NO BAFFLE in the can to begin with :eek:. $hit was LOUD!!!

I rode about 35 miles to Duanes house with no baffle, mostly highway. I then rode home with the new baffle and noticed no real difference other that it was quetier. I'm used to riding a 650, so I'm still getting used to the amount of punch the 1100 has in comparrison, and that might fog my perception of restriction... however, the bike pulled like it did before..so....

It actually has a really nice growl when I opened up the throttle. We packed it with steel wool. To be honest though, I will be putting in stock carbs in (I am now running 33's with veloctiy stacks) and maybe a stock airbox over the winter, So I will be re-jetting when that happens. If I do notice a difference upon further testing and riding, I will remove that end cap that is pictured to allow more air flow. I'm thinking it weighed in at around 6 - 10lbs. I'm not racing this thing so the extra weight is not an issue.

looking forward to your pics. If it looks to be the same size, I might just buy that from you just to have the proper baffle..in case I need it. thanks man!
 
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I took it up to 8K in second, didn't seem restrictive to me.:eek: That thing is a monster.

All those holes easily add up to the exit diameter of 1 inch. The flow from the back was really strong at idle. Josh could not even hear it riding behind me, that's a great improvement.

The absolute most important thing is to get it quiet so he can register it and drive without being ticketed. In a rural area you can get away with anything but in Philly, revenue rules the day and a ticket for loud pipes can be expensive.

We can always make holes bigger. Or start all over again with a new pipe. A quick way to do the holes on the center section would be to grind 1/4 inch slots every inch so there is a 1/4 by 1/2 notch along the pipe. As long as the amount of airflow exceeds the output by enough it should work. Pressure is low and airflow is high at that end of the muffler. Forward motion of the bike actually helps evacuate the pipe, and with the 1100 E there is a great deal of forward motion.
 
Maro/Duaneage,

Good first shot to get you going.

On my Yosh baffle I would say there is substantially more perforations (breathability). They are more like what Duaneage suggested ie. notches that look pulled apart. Almost like they start with a pipe that is 2 inches short of the desired length, notch around circumfirence, then pulled apart or twisted to form the slots. The edges of the slots form a small lip on the inside of the baffle that looks like they are designed to direct some of the exhaust into the fiberglass packing as it travels the length of the baffle.

I think you can quite down the exhaust more. With the design and number of holes you have now I don't think enough of the exhaust/sound/decibels can escape into the fiberglass packing. I'm thinking the majority just shoots out the back still. I think you need slots or small scoops, and as you form the slots you need to form a lip on the inside of the baffle that help to direct some of the exhaust into the packing.

Just my observations. Again great first attempt.
 
isleoman said:
Maro/Duaneage,

With the design and number of holes you have now I don't think enough of the exhaust/sound/decibels can escape into the fiberglass packing. I'm thinking the majority just shoots out the back still. I think you need slots or small scoops, and as you form the slots you need to form a lip on the inside of the baffle that help to direct some of the exhaust into the packing.

Just my observations. Again great first attempt.
Click to expand...

Thanks brother. Definitely a pilot baffle. I'll need to ride more (been too cold to ride since I rode home from Duane's) but the sound..sounded....NICE. My 650 doesn't make a peep. it's dangerous in the city. The 1100 seems to have a growl now, but not obnoxious.

Here's my question. would " I don't think enough of the exhaust/sound/decibels can escape into the fiberglass packing" have anything to do with performance, or is this just a sound issue. because it still pulled like a train....?
 
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Maro,

Not really my area of expertise but I suspect that the baffle set up you have now will give better mid range with a slight loss of top end but thats just a guess. I don't it would cause you to have any problems with being too lean, may help in that area.
 
maro has work to do on the carbs still. Once that issue is resolved we can step to finalizing the baffle design. Worse comes to it he can invest 10 dollars in more pipe and we can experiment with different baffles. pop rivets are cheap. It's nice not to worry about messing up some classic rare expensive piece of unobtanium while having some fun at the same time. I say, carry one on a trip, pull over, swap it out and try another.
 
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