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You can still learn (torquing bolts)

some sort of lube is the norm when torquing bolts but some applications do state to torque a fastener dry.
a light oil on a clean thread is the usual way
 
Agemax said:
some sort of lube is the norm when torquing bolts but some applications do state to torque a fastener dry.
a light oil on a clean thread is the usual way
Click to expand...


I have never understood the reasoning behind dry-torquing bolts, as the inherent friction varies considerably with thread cleanliness and temperature, This will cause the meter to show full torque readings well before it would show if there was lubrication involved.
 
argonsagas said:
I have never understood the reasoning behind dry-torquing bolts, as the inherent friction varies considerably with thread cleanliness and temperature, This will cause the meter to show full torque readings well before it would show if there was lubrication involved.
Click to expand...

Designing a system you don't want lube in, you'd have to select your fasteners with enough margin that any tension induced at the spec'd torque would be sufficient.

If your engine is wound so tight that you need this special fastener lube, then you must be right at the edge of blowing the thing apart. Myself, I wouldn't want something so fussy on a street vehicle. I'm all for quality fasteners and proper procedure, but I think the stuff being sold in the video is overkill for the vast majority of people. If I was cutting it that fine, I'd use bolts that show me induced tension directly, instead of relying on an indirect measurement like torque.

Use the lube spec'd in the service manual. The fastener was selected for use with that method. For anything else, standard practice is fine.
 
wikipedia quote......

The torque value is dependent on the friction produced by the threads and by the fastened material's contact with both the fastener head and the associated nut. Moreover, this friction can be affected by the application of a lubricant or any plating (e.g. cadmium or zinc) applied to the threads, and the fastener's standard defines whether the torque value is for dry or lubricated threading, as lubrication can reduce the torque value by 15% to 25%; lubricating a fastener designed to be torqued dry could over-tighten it, which may damage threading or stretch the fastener beyond its elastic limit, thereby reducings its ability to clamp a joint
 
I'm not rushing out to buy the product, I was just surprised with the difference in torque values between the various lubes
 
I was always taught to chase internal threads and have everything squeeky clean. This is super important on aluminum/steel combos. Buff your external threads and don't use clicker torque wrenches. Use dial type. But then I am very old school. I was freaked out when my Mercedes manual said to torque head bolts to say 35lbs and then give it another half turn or so. That is for stretchy bolts! Technology marches on, and I have seen many strip threads using any lubricant, especially at the bolt head to surface area. Stick with the technology of the time zone of your bike and you will be fine.
 
I'm in Pacific Time Zone ;)
I took a course on how to tourque a head one evening in Jim's (posplayr) garage but the BS MLS gasket wouldn't cooperate.
 
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