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Zip Tie Valve adjustment method a no go and frustrating

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
M

maro

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Don't get me wrong, I seems to be a great method for some, but using the zip ties to prop the valve open to gain access to the shim was not working well for me. It only worked once for my #4 intake. But that was it.

I had everything in place. Got the head off fine. Gasket needs replacing, okay. Measured my clearances. They were all tight. couldn't even fit my .0015 guage between them. Next comes trying to figure out what size shims are in there. Got my zip tie, followed the Guide, and was able to pull only one shim within an hour of trying. Ridiculous. And constantly have to manually crank the engine every time is a PITA! You would definitely need another person on the other side of the bike to hold the tie in place while cranking. Maybe my clearance are just way to tight? I couldn;t consistantly keep the tie in place to get between the head and valve. and if it missed, I would have to crank all the way around again.


Needless to say I was frustrated to the point of going to the Triumph store to look at new bikes. I've spent so much money and time on this GS just to be disappointed again. Now I have to buy another expensive tool, wait for it to arrive, just to see my shim sizes, just to wait even longer to order the ones I need. Everyday now I'm watching the weather pass me by.

Really Bummin.

Time to look for a shim removal tool. great.

ON a lighter note, Big thanks to matchless and Cliff for the valve guides, and Steve for the chart. This is site is great, I'm just getting tired of wrenching on the bike, I'm beginning to forget what it's like to ride
 
It took me a minute to get the trick as well, then it was easy. It goes in JUST below the bottom of the threads for the plug. With a flashlight you can see the valve sticking down just lower than this. Slide it in the little bit of space between the bottom of the plug threads and the lip of the valve. Stick it back in there good once you're in the right spot and it will stay. Doesn't need to be held while you turn the crank if it's in there good. I was a little scared of sticking it in there too far too, but really not gonna hurt anything.
 
I had to do some experimenting with folding and kinking the zip ties to get them to stay in place. I got that figured out in about 5-10 minutes of tinkering, then the rest followed easily. This might be one of those home-grown tools that stays in the box once you get it how you want it.

For me, the zip tie was easier to use than the valve tool after it arrived. The tool can slip off the shim bucket if you're not careful. I find that I trusted the zip tie more to hold that valve open while fishing the shims out, because the tool had slipped so many times. YMMV.
 
doctorgonzo said:
Stick it back in there good once you're in the right spot and it will stay. Doesn't need to be held while you turn the crank if it's in there good. I was a little scared of sticking it in there too far too, but really not gonna hurt anything.
Click to expand...

Okay, well, I think I was putting it way too far. never found that sweet spot were it stays itself. Questions, on the guide it says put it in at 10 o'clock on the intake #4. Does that mean it goes in on an angle at about 10 oclock, meaning it actaully gets stuck in the valve at around 4 oclock on the opposite side. This was confusing. Because you use the same hole for both intake and exhaust, so where exactly am I sicking the tie on the intake valve and where am I sticking in for the exhaust side?

and just to be clear, the cam should be pressing on the shim cup when I insert the tie of the proper valve, correct?
 
im just across the delaware if you need to borrow mine. i have a shim removal tool if you need it. PM me.
 
maro said:
Okay, well, I think I was putting it way too far. never found that sweet spot were it stays itself. Questions, on the guide it says put it in at 10 o'clock on the intake #4. Does that mean it goes in on an angle at about 10 oclock, meaning it actaully gets stuck in the valve at around 4 oclock on the opposite side. This was confusing. Because you use the same hole for both intake and exhaust, so where exactly am I sicking the tie on the intake valve and where am I sticking in for the exhaust side?

and just to be clear, the cam should be pressing on the shim cup when I insert the tie of the proper valve, correct?
Click to expand...

From my memory of doing it, the position on the intake side is 10 o'clock, meaning if the spark plug hole was a clock it would enter the hole pointing at 10 o'clock. Look in there with a flashlight and at 10 o'clock you'll see the bottom of the valve peeking below the hole. You only have a little room. It's easy for the zip tie to go in where it's below the valve which does nothing. It has to slip in the tiny space created between the lip of the valve and the bottom of the plug hole. Then as the valve closes it will catch on the zip tie and hold it open. I think on the exhaust side instead of 10 o'clock it would be 2 o'clock.
 
For me, I just pointed it at the valve stem, no matter what time it was.
 
Last edited:
you dont have to get the ziptie in WHILE you turn the crank, just when the lobe is holding the valve open. and you can do 2 at a time, as 2 valves will be open at any one time....i didnt pay any attention to the o'clock, but you can see the valve hangin open. i had good luck with it, the first try.
 
It Worked

It Worked

I finally was able to see the top of the valve as mentioned above, which gave be a precise location to put the tie. Got them all measure out!!

thanks guys, sorry for the frustrated original post. Happens


cheers
 
Understandable. i couldn't figure it out until I looked with a light and realized... OH... it goes THERE!
 
I had the light the whole time, but I just wasn't seeing it until it was pointed out. Thanks again ya'll.

Now, who's got a 2.6 shim cause z1 is out? anyone, anyone?
 
I have some 2.60. Send me a PM with address and I'll send you one. I'm looking to collect 2.55 and 2.50 for my next adjustment (a couple thousand miles from now) So I'll build the good shim Karma, and if anyone has 2.55 or 2.50.....
 
Just to clarify it for some who are having problems. The zip tie goes between the valve and the valve seat. Not between the valve & piston
 
i think i have (2) 2.60s. hmmmm........

edit: just checked and i seemed to have used them last valve adjustment. :(
 
Last edited:
I'm going to send him a 2.60 tomorrow. 5 of my eight valves (that all needed adjustment) were sitting on either 2.60 or 2.60X so I have several of them.
 
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