Clutch chatter and poor low end performance.

[LAB3]

As near as I can tell the carbs on my 450 are potmetal, which means lots of zinc. Those ones in particular where darkened just a tad after rinsing with plain water, I've had it happen on other carbs as well. There's the cost of the dip but more important to me is what you do with it afterwards, the Pine Sol can be safely used for other purposes, carbdip is hazardous waste.

[Wingsconsin]

Keep at it -- your efforts can pay off --

Although you did violate the order in which these older bikes should be recovered --

1) Get it running -
--- spend as little as possible and decide if it's worth doing better - then spend a little more until it runs WELL

2) Get it stopping -
--brakes, tires, suspension all are incredibly valuable and $$ consuming -(That's why we do this AFTER it's worth it)

3) Get it pretty (comfortable)
--spending time and money painting or polishing a bike that has fatal flaws internal to the engine is folly
--Once it's RUNNING WELL - and STOPPING WELL
Then spend money on paint, chrome, seats, etc.

Just my 3 rules of bike resurrection (and I have flipped a dozen or so for profit)

Enjoy the ride

[80s cars or gtfo]

Valve adjustment done, no valves were terribly out of spec. They were all in the .005-.007" range, odd that they were loose rather than tight. Took the carbs off and opened all the floats, float height good and the floats seem to be moving freely and operating as they should. Sprayed everything down with berrymans and put everything back together. The carbs appear to be recently serviced, and the screws were replaced with the kind sold by cycleorings.com, socket head SS with light copper antisieze. The previous owner owned multiple bikes and was the one that told me about the gs resources website to begin with. I'm willing to bet that he has already changed the orings and everything else too. I know it sounds like taking the easy way out but I have no reason risk a broken pilot jet or a torn diaphragm by doing unnecessary dismantling and reassembly. He only had the bike for a year and at most those orings are that old. Even the float bowl gaskets look fresh enough to reuse.
Do you think the poor performance could be caused by simply old gas? Carbs out of sync? I bench synced them to basscliffs websites instructions and they pretty much spot on. Speaking of gas, is it odd that the bike leans to the left when parked and the cylinders on the left we're burning hotter? How would those potentially correlate?

[bobgroger]

Ethanol gas causes corrosion. The hole in the pilot jet is about .008 and can become clogged in as little as a few weeks. Bench sync is not enough. We have all learned the hard way, there are no shortcuts that do not lead to doing the job twice. Just sayin'....

[80s cars or gtfo]

Do you think just breaking them down and chem dipping is enough? I can't find a good walkthrough on this site or on basscliffs site with a working link. I'm not confident in my carb knowledge to go in to something like this blind.

[bobgroger]

Do you think just breaking them down and chem dipping is enough? I can't find a good walkthrough on this site or on basscliffs site with a working link. I'm not confident in my carb knowledge to go in to something like this blind.

Start here: http://www.thegsresources.com/carbclean.php
And http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/...d_Tutorial.pdf

Also make sure the rubber plugs are in place over the pilot jets. It is likely a member is near enough to volunteer to help sync the carbs. A very minute change can make the difference between a sweet running bile and a turd.

[80s cars or gtfo]

Thanks for the links here is a pic of the no.1 float bowl before cleaning. As you can see it is very clean already almost as if it had been cleaned recently. The float retaining pin was also only barely set in snug and came out with a light push with out having to do the supporting it thing, like it had just been removed recently.1526778620245-1665609774.jpg

[80s cars or gtfo]

Well FML (frick my life), the pilot screw in the no.2 carb rounded. 15267787847171081485305.jpg
On the up side, I'm kind of a badass when it comes to removing rounded screws(I still always switch Phillips to socket cap when I can though, I'm not crazy) on the down side I'm guessing pilot jets aren't cheap and I'm positive they aren't free. Where am I even going to be able to find these?

[cowboyup3371]

This is at right at the top of Basscliff's site and details EVERYTHING you need for doing a carb rebuild.

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

[80s cars or gtfo]

Why is the no.3 diaphragm spring shorter than the rest??? The wire also appears slightly thicker... If only I had a good caliper... Oh wait I do! The no.3 spring's wire measures .032" and the other three are .029". something from the PO or is this normal?1526781839894-1539712747.jpg

[80s cars or gtfo]

I was reading the numbers on the Jets and reading up on the $120(makes me cry) dynojet kit and saw that the dynojet stage three kit main jet is 138. My current jets are all 138. I couldn't find dynojet specs for their other jets but my air jets are 170 and pilots are 47.5. anybody know the dynojet stage three jet specs? Wouldn't it be the best if the PO already installed it? Well it's been a long day but I have the carbs completely broken down as per bobgrogers advice. When I have the money I'll be ordering the orings and the carbdip. Will berrymans b-12 chemtool work instead of carb dip? I already have a few bottles of that stuff lying around.

[londonboards]

Care: Dynojet numbers and Mikuni numbers cannot be compared. They are not using the same measurement system.

I would tend to stick with the Dynojet product as you have non-standard pods and pipes.

[80s cars or gtfo]

Care: Dynojet numbers and Mikuni numbers cannot be compared. They are not using the same measurement system.

I would tend to stick with the Dynojet product as you have non-standard pods and pipes.

I probably should have posted this but I dug around for the previous owners phone number and asked him and he confirmed that it is already dynojet stage three. So I'm just going to do the dip, new orings and new pilot jets to replace the two that stripped upon removal. The no.3 carb which stripped upon removal looked like it may have had yellow fuel residue in the jet but it could have just been some brass from forcefully removing it.

[posplayr]

I probably should have posted this but I dug around for the previous owners phone number and asked him and he confirmed that it is already dynojet stage three. So I'm just going to do the dip, new orings and new pilot jets to replace the two that stripped upon removal. The no.3 carb which stripped upon removal looked like it may have had yellow fuel residue in the jet but it could have just been some brass from forcefully removing it.

138 is a DJ number, Mikuni goes in 2.5 stamps. Also the 47.5 pilots indicates the jetting was already changed from stock (which is 45). Needle jets should be close to the middle and using Pods.

after moving to AZ my carbs would dry out plugging the pilot jets. I eould pull the carbs, pop off the bowels and using carb cleaner spray blowout all the passages including the pilot jets. Would run find after that. Realize this was after 6 months on s clean setup not years of gunk and tarnish.