Got a carb syncing tool. This is what it told me.

[Big T]

Which is the main carb that all the others are based off of? #3?

Yes, #3

But, I was referring to the gauges. You need to calibrate them from one source, so that you know they are showing the same amount of vacuum

Then you can hook up and sync

[Guest]

Yes, #3

But, I was referring to the gauges. You need to calibrate them from one source, so that you know they are showing the same amount of vacuum

Then you can hook up and sync

So, whatever #3 lands on, I have to match the others to?
Remember, I'm autistic, and I've never done this before. I may need it explained with more detail. I've seen a couple videos, and I followed what was shown.

[londonboards]

Make sure the engine is up to temperature and is idling nicely on its own before you do carb sync. It sounds like, from what you were saying, that you were trying to sync them with the choke on.

[Guest]

Make sure the engine is up to temperature and is idling nicely on its own before you do carb sync. It sounds like, from what you were saying, that you were trying to sync them with the choke on.

That's the only way it will run.
And yes, I've cleaned the carbs. The pathways were unobstructed. Blew compressed air through all the holes.

[Baatfam]

That's the only way it will run.
And yes, I've cleaned the carbs. The pathways were unobstructed. Blew compressed air through all the holes.

You're ahead of yourself. If it won't idle without the "choke" it is not time to sync the carbs yet.

Carb cleaner and compressed air is not how you clean these carbs.
Follow the instructions for a proper dip clean, which I am sure someone has linked you already.
Adjust the valves. Start over.

Is there no one near Davenport that can help this young man?

[cowboyup3371]

Please stop and put down all tools until you read these posts carefully.

First, if you just sprayed carb cleaner through a few holes then the carbs are NOT cleaned. Did you remove the carbs from the bike, completely disassemble each and all of them, the clean them following Nessisms written procedure found at Basscliff’s site? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Secondly, you just asked me about the valve adjustment procedure using the zip ties barely a week ago. Did you check those clearances yet and what was each one set to?

Third, have you replaced the orings behind each intake boot? Are you sure each boot is still in good shape?

Once all of the proper steps above have been PROPERLY and FULLY completed and the bike is able to start and run on its own without starter fluid, then and only then should you attempt to synchronize the carbs.

You say you are autistic, then slow down and do this step by step as we have tried to lay out for you in the order we have tried to explain. Otherwise you are not helping yourself.

[Guest]

Please stop and put down all tools until you read these posts carefully.

First, if you just sprayed carb cleaner through a few holes then the carbs are NOT cleaned. Did you remove the carbs from the bike, completely disassemble each and all of them, the clean them following Nessisms written procedure found at Basscliff’s site? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Secondly, you just asked me about the valve adjustment procedure using the zip ties barely a week ago. Did you check those clearances yet and what was each one set to?

Third, have you replaced the orings behind each intake boot? Are you sure each boot is still in good shape?

Once all of the proper steps above have been PROPERLY and FULLY completed and the bike is able to start and run on its own without starter fluid, then and only then should you attempt to synchronize the carbs.

You say you are autistic, then slow down and do this step by step as we have tried to lay out for you in the order we have tried to explain. Otherwise you are not helping yourself.

1. I took it apart only as far as taking all the moving guts out. I started taking the seats out that the float needles reside in, but one of the screws heads stripped as I tried to remove it, becoming too loose for any of my screwdrivers. I was worried if I put it in the dip, the O-ring inside would be eaten. So I stopped and put everything back together, rather than compromise a seal. That's when I used compressed air and carb cleaner. Please do not assume I haven't read. I enjoy reading.
2. I have not tried that zip tie method yet. I was waiting until I got the carb sync tool so I could do that afterward. I ordered a specific tool on Amazon, but the delivery date kept getting moved back and moved back, so I canceled that. That's when I settled on just using zip ties instead. I was also waiting on a digital caliper I ordered, which came the other day.
3. Yes, even put new boots on it, AND put gasket sealant behind every one. Since one of the boot screws broke and I had been unable to extract it, I drilled through the remains with a self-drilling screw. I tested it with starting fluid. No leaks.

When the carbs are empty of fuel and I attach the fuel tank, sometimes it kicks over quickly. Other times, it doesn't. If it won't be so hard on the o-ring, I'll take the carbs apart again and dip them. It's just that one screw. How long would you recommend leaving them in? But before that, I'll finally crack open the case and take measurements of the valve shims. I found a PDF from BikeCliff's website on that. I also found this website: https://biketech7.blogspot.com/2016/...ing-valve.html

[Gorminrider]

You're ahead of yourself. If it won't idle without the "choke" it is not time to sync the carbs yet.

Exactly....really, the bike should be running pretty well before the carb synch. Carb synching is "tuning" -not repair or troubleshooting. (Mind you, a single vacuum gauge can help indicate cylinder problems...)

[Guest]

Exactly....really, the bike should be running pretty well before the carb synch. Carb synching is "tuning" -not repair or troubleshooting. (Mind you, a single vacuum gauge can help indicate cylinder problems...)

I had assumed it was the carbs, because that's often the first thing I was told. I had never taken an engine apart, and to me, trying to take any part of the main block off would result in me screwing something up horribly. Only recently did I learn the valves will muck up how an engine runs, and the cleanest carbs in the world couldn't fix that. So that's my next thing. I have some feeler gauges, a telescoping magnet, some screwdrivers, and zip ties.

[Guest]

Problem: the head is stuck fast, and I'm unsure how to loosen it. 1589392660168588969148423038620.jpg

EDIT: With a little heat and soft taps with a hammer and screwdriver, I got it loose.

[Baatfam]

Problem: the head is stuck fast, and I'm unsure how to loosen it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]61001[/ATTACH]

EDIT: With a little heat and soft taps with a hammer and screwdriver, I got it loose.

That's just the valve cover, not the head. You are not "taking the engine apart"

[Guest]

That's just the valve cover, not the head. You are not "taking the engine apart"

I didn't remember the word for it. That's why I included a picture, so you could make sense of it.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

hopefully, you've kept track of the bolts, or put them in a cardboard "map". 2 of the bolts are a different length , 45mm. The other 14 are 40mm.

[Steve]

I set the idle screw to just touching the mixture screw hole, which I heard is a good baseline idle.

I, along with others, wish there was somebody near you to keep you from killing your bike.

Your idle screw does not go anywhere near the mixture screw hole, let alone to set "a good baseline idle".

The idle adjuster screw is below the carbs, right in the middle. You need to turn that IN (clockwise) to raise the idle speed so that the engine does not die.

Why are you messing with the idle mixture screws when you don't even have the carbs synched yet?

Which screws are you adjusting to sync the carbs?

.

[Guest]

I, along with others, wish there was somebody near you to keep you from killing your bike.

Your idle screw does not go anywhere near the mixture screw hole, let alone to set "a good baseline idle".

The idle adjuster screw is below the carbs, right in the middle. You need to turn that IN (clockwise) to raise the idle speed so that the engine does not die.

Why are you messing with the idle mixture screws when you don't even have the carbs synched yet?

Which screws are you adjusting to sync the carbs?

.

All I can do is follow what I can see and read. Videos, guides, and these forums. Not many videos specifically deal with the 550.