GS1000 streetfighter idea w/ picture

one more:

8trackmind-

Here's some more photos for you. This is how I ran these rearsets for about 1000 miles on the road last summer, worked great. Never ground out a footpeg while leaned over all the way.

you have two different rearsets right to left, or at least the guards are. k4 and k6, maybe? why is that?



back to reading

im about to start page 66, but i had a few questions i HAD to get out before i forgot them.

I believe most of the people doing this swap used a GS500 sprocket carrier and cush drive, which is significantly narrower than the GSXR parts.


Mark

would this have been a viable option to relieve your +6mm on the leftside of the rear wheel for chain alignment?

Well, after reviewing a couple of photos, I decided that the design of the lower shock mount needed to be revisited, so we tore out the old design and fabbed up a new one.

Most importantly, the way I had the linkage and shock mounted didn't allow for sufficient travel in the linkage, which resulted in the swingarm trying to tear the tabs out of the frame without transmitting that force into the shock. Plus, I didn't like how much force was going to be exerted on two unbraced tabs that were welded only at two relatively small points, so that needed to be addressed.

This is the linkage and shock from a stock GSXR, note the position of the dogbone bolt relative to the shock bolt.



Now look how I had mine mounted.




Big, possibly disastrous difference.

So we fixed it. New frame crossmember tacked onto the centerstand crossmember, and two fat tabs made from 1/2" square tubing, welded in solid to a piece of rectangular tubing.





The suspension now works and is mounted in the way that those very smart Suzuki mechanical engineers intended.

the finished redo and the stock GSXR still dont match up, what gives? loaded vs unloaded? good as it gets? more/less rake?

There are 4 covers bolted on with phillips head bolts in the pic below, what are their functions? Also, what does the spring loaded thing in the bottom left do?

The one with 3 screws around the bearing is a retainer for said bearing,to the left of that with 4 screws is the output shaft end plate, the plate at the top is the end of the oil gallery

The thing at the bottom is the selector pawl, the shaft off the back of that on the LHS runs through the engine & your gear lever is fitted to the end of that to the right of that with the 2 screws in the retaining plate is the selector drum

Tone

The piece all the way to the left is the shift shaft. The spring returns it to center after you shift. The piece to the right of it with the teeth connect to the shift drum with changes gears. The plates up top have gasket behind them that cover up oil passages. The plates on bottom hold the shift drum in place.

Spring loaded thing is part of the transmission. I belive it's the back side of the shift shaft. I think this becuase when I had the cover off of mine it moved on me when I was fussing with my shifter. No clue what's behind the covers though. Gears maybe????

good idea, 5 slots, 5 speeds.

Spring loaded thing is part of the transmission. I belive it's the back side of the shift shaft. I think this becuase when I had the cover off of mine it moved on me when I was fussing with my shifter. No clue what's behind the covers though. Gears maybe????

I bought a bunch of allen head ss screws to replace all those philips bolts in the clutch area and some ss button head allen screws for the oil pump.

would you be intrested in buying some? It will be a good price.

your project is always looking good.

-Ryan

Thanks, appreciate the offer but I think I'll pass.

There are 4 covers bolted on with phillips head bolts in the pic below, what are their functions? Also, what does the spring loaded thing in the bottom left do?

[first timer]

I bought a bunch of allen head ss screws to replace all those philips bolts in the clutch area and some ss button head allen screws for the oil pump.

would you be intrested in buying some? It will be a good price.

your project is always looking good.

-Ryan

wow

80GS,

Just read though the last half of this thread... I need you for a week in my garage!

jw

New tachometer drive assembled.



And installed in the head. Sorry the motor's so greasy, planning on cleaning it for paint soon. Important to make sure the helical gear on the tach drive is seated correctly before tightening the mounting bolt on the drive. I turned the motor a few times by hand by the bolt under the ignition cover to make sure the new tach drive rotated smoothly.

I re-installed the oil pump, using blue loctite on the screws and gave each screw a few good whacks with the impact driver to get them torqued well.

Installing the oil pump gear circlip. Make sure the oil pump gear is sitting properly on the oil pump shaft.



All done. Make sure to rotate the gears a few times by hand to ensure they're engaging the oil pump properly. The dark spots on the new idler gear are lube from the metal machining process I think.



The old tachometer drive would leak a few drops of oil when the engine was hot and the oil was thin. So it was replaced. Here's the old one.



Fresh OEM tach drive parts. I'm always pleasantly amazed Suzuki has all these new NOS parts for our bikes. :-)

Oil pump gears and tachometer drive replacement

Decided to upgrade the oil pump gears for more flow/pressure as an oil cooler setup is planned to be installed. First step is to remove the clutch basket. The basket was sent out to Gardner Racing Concepts in Maine to get a heavy duty clutch hub kit installed.

With the clutch basket and the oil pump idler gear removed, it looks like this.



Then you remove the oil pump. I found it easier to remove the oil pump gear first to gain better access to the screws. The screws attaching the pump to the cases required a few whacks with the impact driver to remove. The oil pump o-rings in the cases were replaced with new ones. The paper towel is to prevent anything from falling into the oil pan.



New higher flow oil pump gears from Schnitz Racing. They're marketed for the 1100/1150 but they bolted right up in the 1000.



New(er) oil pump from a GS1000 which'd only done 15K miles vs. close to 35K on the original.

These bushings are installed inside the bearing of the swingarm. There should not be any galling or binding as the swingarm will pivot on the bearing, not the bushing.

Nice work 80GS1000, as always. Your bike looks fantastic!

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark

Mark-

Agreed that brass/bronze are very good bushing materials. Should've been more specific and said 440 stainless. 440 stainless which those bushings are made of is known for its anti-galling properties as well...haven't had any binding issues.

Also get them made in hard stainless....

Stainless is the worst possible material for a bushing. It will gall and bind in record time, worse than just about any other metal. Your best material is a brass or bronze bearing material that is purpose made for this job. Also, add a grease fitting or two to keep the swingarm pivot nicely greased just to be kind to those nice new bronze bushings.

Mark