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Fuel out the exhaust #3 cylinder

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    #31
    Originally posted by Mark Crystal View Post
    I changed all the innards to carb three to 4 and 4 to three. And still #3 is cold as ice after driving and gas spuing out. Don't know what else to do.
    You can move all the "innards", but you can't move the passages between them.

    It's possible that the pilot circuit passages are plugged, preventing gas from getting through, but the float needle is hung up, allowing raw gas to get dumped down the throat.



    Going back to the beginning of the thread, you say you "cleaned the carbs and used Seafoam".
    Please tell us HOW you "cleaned the carbs".
    - Did you do a full "strip and dip"?
    - How long did you leave them in the dip?
    - Did you replace all the o-rings?
    - Did you synchronize the carbs (properly)? You made mention of synching them "with the petcock vacuum to #3", so I am questioning many other things that might have been done incorrectly, too.

    Have not seen it asked yet, so ... have you adjusted the valves?

    .
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      #32
      Do what Steve says but before you reinstall the carbs save yourself some time and benchtest the carbs before you reinstall them. Put them on the bench in their normal orientation as when they are on the bike and attach a fuel supply at the height above the carbs as when they are on the bike. Turn on the fuel supply and check for any leaks. In your case you mostly will be checking for major leaks coming out the carb mouth or float bowl overflow tubes. This would also be a good time once you've troubleshot any leaks to do a static float height test with a plastic tube attached where the float bowl drain is. Once all is good then reinstall the carbs. While you have the tank off check the petcock, it should flow lots of fuel out the fuel line in the prime position and none in the on or reserve position. Also use some clear hose as mentioned above to check for fuel coming out the vacuum port on the petcock. Also when you suck hard enough on the vacuum hose, if it's working correctly you get no fuel in the vacuum hose and fuel should flow out the fuel line in the on and/or reserve position. These simply tests done before you put everything together could save you a lot of time frustration.
      '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

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        #33
        yeah, steve, whenever i see "cold cylinder" i AUTOMATICALLY think valves first.
        1983 GS 1100 ESD

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          #34
          I really aricate the help, I won't be able to work on it till this weekend, ill give an update then thank you so very much

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            #35
            Runs awesome!!!! You guys are great lol... Finally!!

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              #36
              Originally posted by Mark Crystal View Post
              Runs awesome!!!! You guys are great lol... Finally!!
              I guess the weekend came early ! anyways, good to hear it's working, now catch up on all the maintenance.
              1981 gs650L

              "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                #37
                My boss let me have an early day, so plenty of time to tinker.

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