Inlets - With Pics

[Guest]

Had some excellent info from site members so far which has been a tremendous help so far.. Starter problem (seperate thread) now sorted.

Carbs, Getting better but not yet vacuum balanced (I'll come back to that) BUT !!

I'm thinking that from reading previous threads on inlets and the so so sensitive nature of airbox being sealed, new filter etc etc.. that the ones on my bike are indeed toast ! .. and likely the 'O' Rings are also beyond serviceable... I did spray carb cleaner around them when the engine was running and it made no difference to the idle, just to see if they were leaking, but seemed ok

However I cannot get them off in situ because the screws wont budge and I cannot get an impact screwdriver anywhere near. So only option is to remove the engine (unless you can tell me different )

Valued opinion needed before I spend out on new ones..

[Steve]

Well, you obviously have to remove the CARBS first, but the engine can stay.

What bike?

Once the carbs are out, you can use a hand impact driver. What? No room to swing a hammer? No problem. Remove the head of the driver, you will see a 3/8" square drive, just like the one in your socket set. Grab a few of the extensions, the driver can now be positioned where you can swing your hammer into it.

.

[JTGS850GL]

Usually you can get the hand impact driver onto the outer boots with no problems. The inner boot screws can be a little harder. You can do as Steve suggested and see if you can get a good whack at them. I've also found that, if you can get one screw out (top or bottom), you can tap/rotate the boot counter clockwise around the remaining screw and the other screw will turn with it. Once it breaks loose it's a piece of cake to get out. Replace the screws with cap screws and the next time will be much easier.

Note: From the last picture I see that the metal cap end seal is cut. Not a bid deal but could be a source of an air leak if the seals weak.

[Showtime]

Well, you obviously have to remove the CARBS first, but the engine can stay.

What bike?

GS450S .. ahem my mistake.. would have been useful


Once the carbs are out, you can use a hand impact driver. What? No room to swing a hammer? No problem. Remove the head of the driver, you will see a 3/8" square drive, just like the one in your socket set. Grab a few of the extensions, the driver can now be positioned where you can swing your hammer into it.

.

Genius.. now I know why I ask first and act second.. Thanks Steve I'll give that a bash.. (did you see what I did there )

But as to the original question.. inlets.. Toast ?

[Larry D]

Get a can of PB Blaster and spray those stupid screws for a day or two....then, get a pair of needle-nose vice grips. Get a good grip on one of the screws and "worry" it loose...in other words, just slightly move it back and forth until it breaks loose. Once one is out then rotate the boot counterclockwise to loosen the other side.....proceed to next boot.

Caution:: Be careful not to break the head off the screw. Good Luck !


.........or do what Steve said......LOL !!!!

[Showtime]

Thanks all for the removal tips..

But... Should I remove/replace them, do they look knackered to you.. ?

[Larry D]

There is an o-ring that seats against the head behind that boot that should be replaced. So, yes, remove them, replace the o-ring and throw those stupid screws away and get some socket head screws.
After you remove them, then they can be inspected properly to see if the boots themselves need replaced.

[Showtime]

Thanks all, much appreciate the input.. Old ones will be gone and replaced

[Larry D]

Here ya go...

http://www.cycleorings.com/intake.html

[Wingsconsin]

Learn from my mistake please ...

Be sure to look them over carefully...

One fella I know didn't do this prior to a reinstallation and the problem was found in the11th hour of a rejuvenation process...

It was almost enough to bring the project to a screeching halt and they were facing a very tight tie schedule to get it running.

Luckily the Lead Mechanic (Steve) had a few extras laying around which suited the project and saved the day (weekend).

Next time I will look at them much more closely...

[srg]

Get a can of PB Blaster and spray those stupid screws for a day or two....

Be careful with PB Blaster. It can eat through plastic/gaskets (as in, the cam chain tensioner right below there...). It's fine, just have some rags sitting underneath it.

[Showtime]

Be sure to look them over carefully...

One fella I know didn't do this prior to a reinstallation and the problem was found in the11th hour of a rejuvenation process...

It was almost enough to bring the project to a screeching halt and they were facing a very tight tie schedule to get it running.

Luckily the Lead Mechanic (Steve) had a few extras laying around which suited the project and saved the day (weekend).

Next time I will look at them much more closely...

Thanks for the heads up on these things, clearly they are very sensitive, I'll just junk the originals and fit new ones along with replacement boots for the airbox.

Larry.. Thanks for the link.. I did get my 'O' Rings from Rob for the carbs and also ordered the ones fo the inlets..

[Trax]

I did it with PB blaster, and a 1/4 driver bit, socket and rachet. one of the heads i really screwed up and had to cut a slot into it.

needle nose vice grips when all else fails as well..

also i personally say antiseize the bolts you put back in, and a +1 on the cycle o-rings kit.

[londonboards]

I would also replace those busted up screws in the balancing holes.

The only way to tell if they are done in is to get them off. This is what mine looked like:







I decided they were junk. You can get replacements here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-...ac8334&vxp=mtr

Be sure to add your self to the UK GS Owners Facebook page.

Greetings