Uncle Mike's BIKE Dead on Chicago Expressway - Coil question

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  • Redman
    replied
    Originally posted by UncleMike
    As far as I can tell, the High Beam indicator is the only light in the gauge cluster working. Tach and gear indicator are both out as well. No brake light or signals. I didn't check the license plate light though.
    Yes, Signal Org/Grn supplys power to those things.

    If you want to verify that the problem with the tail lighht and brake light is not the ground, you could do this: Turn Ignition to Park position (all way to right), that then takes power from main red to opertate the tail light. IF tail light comes on then you know the ground for tail light is good (and bulb is good).
    But you got other things out that have different ground.

    High Beam indicator is powered by the Headlight fuse, so, as far as fuse circuits go, the highbeam indicator is not an instrument on the instrument fuse Org/Grn wire. Which is why it works.

    Yah, Org/Grn comes out of fuse block and goes to multiple connetors, and you are missing things from more than one of those connectors. So, yah, fuse block or org/green wire from the fuse block is a good suspect.

    .
    .
    Last edited by Redman; 05-26-2012, 07:28 AM.

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  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    O.K. guys, here's the deal. I can get Mike to verify that the O/G wire is not getting any power. Short of getting another fuse block, we could bypass the fuse block for that one particular wire by using an inline fuse from the Orange to the O/G at the fuse block. It needs to be fused b/c we have not yet determined if there is a short or not. I doubt it, but of course it must be tested first. Steve, are you interested/have the skills? Remember, this bike has thousands of miles that need to be traveled on this patch.
    The best solution, if the fuse block is bad, is to install another 1100E fuse block (loaner) in its place.
    Second best solution would be to disassemble the fuse block and fix the issue internally.
    Mike, you need to take your battery to an auto parts store and have it tested. I suspect it is faulty.

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  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    I believe I have the answer. Entering the fuse box is the orange wire. It feeds to several fuses, including 2nd from the top, SIGNAL. It exits via the O/G (Orange with a Green stripe) wire. It is this wire ( O/G ) which is apparently not getting power.
    Mike, when you wake up give me a buzz.
    Meanwhile I will see if I can translate from the 4 quadrant printout to the big one you posted in this thread.
    BTW, I don't need another pic, I can work from the one you gave me. Wish I had a really big printer....

    Edit: Done. The O/G is most likely dead. It feeds the instrumentation lights, the brake light, turn signals, etc.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-26-2012, 06:49 AM. Reason: Conclusion reached. Now comes the fun part

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  • UncleMike
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco
    The diagram you posted is all He will need. That, and possibly the pages in the shop manual for the check panel control unit as I don't know how it figures into the big picture.

    Nite T nite...
    Okay, I'll get images of that as well. Thanks.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    The diagram you posted is all He will need. That, and possibly the pages in the shop manual for the check panel control unit as I don't know how it figures into the big picture.

    Nite T nite...

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  • UncleMike
    Guest replied
    I'm doing this all from my phone, so it's hard for me to tell which photos are the best. I've been sending closer images to George, but don't know which help. I've been doing some interviews on the road so I have a a widescreen attachment for my phone and will set up a better photo in the sunlight tomorrow or find a Kinkos.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    The top fuse powers the turn signal light switch and the dimmer switch.

    the second 10A fuse powers the turn signal control unit, the turn signal relay, power to the brake light switch, front running lights, speedo~tach?? and check panel control unit Via 1/2 of the Ignition switch. (hard to read the colors)

    Haven't traced the third fuse as it's 2AM local time...

    I'd check power coming out of the second fuse down from the top in the wiring diagram. If you have power coming out of the fuse, then check for power at the brake light switch with the key in the on position
    Last edited by rustybronco; 05-26-2012, 01:14 AM.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    It's really hard to read this diagram...

    Power comes from the battery and feeds the 15A fuse. Power leaves the 15a fuse (via red?) and goes to the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned on power goes to the three 10A fuses (via Orange?).

    With the key on, do you have voltage on both sides of the 10A fuses?

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  • UncleMike
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco
    Is this all that is not working?
    As far as I can tell, the High Beam indicator is the only light in the gauge cluster working. Tach and gear indicator are both out as well. No brake light or signals. I didn't check the license plate light though.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid
    neither the tail light nor the brake light works. Bulbs look good. The instrument lights do not work, nor does the electronic tach.
    Is this all that is not working?

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  • UncleMike
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by salty_monk
    Can you get the posts of the multimeter stuck down behind the back of the fuse block where the wires enter it?
    IF the fuse is still in one piece... you can jump the fuse using the 10A setting on your multimeter like this...

    I say if the fuse is in one piece because If there's a dead short there your new multimeter is at risk... (although it should have a 10a internal fuse that will blow...

    I do have a few spare 10a fuses.

    George, would you be willing to walk me through the process sometime tomorrow? We could even Facetime it to make sure I'm not doing anything stupid.

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  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by UncleMike
    Is it beyond me to do? (And again, I won't be offended if you think that's the case.)
    If it is done incorrectly it could render you connector useless, then you would be in a world of hurt.

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  • salty_monk
    replied
    Can you get the posts of the multimeter stuck down behind the back of the fuse block where the wires enter it?
    IF the fuse is still in one piece... you can jump the fuse using the 10A setting on your multimeter like this...

    I say if the fuse is in one piece because If there's a dead short there your new multimeter is at risk... (although it should have a 10a internal fuse that will blow...

    Leave a comment:


  • 7981GS
    Guest replied
    I have one from one of my '83 1100E's that could be loaned out.
    He IS coming this direction, right?

    Eric

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  • UncleMike
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid
    Nope, it is the same as the 1100E, I checked the parts fiche.
    Popping the wires out of the connector can be done by someone who knows how to do it correctly.
    Is it beyond me to do? (And again, I won't be offended if you think that's the case.)

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