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    Checking Valve Clearances

    Hi all,

    Following some study on how to do this I have come across 4 different methods from credible sources. On this forum there has been talk of methods for this too. Some methods I have come across are:

    • Checking in firing position,
    • Aligning cams by sight so they are perpendicular to cylinder head
    • Using governer markings to align crankshaft
    • and more...


    What is the correct way to check the valve clearances on a Suzuki GS1000G? Can you please give a very brief description of the steps.

    #2
    Greetings and Salutations!!

    Hi Mr. john,

    You'll find the correct procedure documented on my little website. Use the 8-valve procedure, not the 16-valve procedure.

    Now let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'.

    I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

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    Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



    Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

    Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #3
      Hi BassCliff,

      Thanks for the welcome. I have got the clearances sorted.

      The method I ended up using was the Clymer Suzuki Manual method of rotating the cams by sight so each one is perpendicular to the cylinder head when it is being measured.

      Thanks again,
      John

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by john View Post
        The method I ended up using was the Clymer Suzuki Manual method of rotating the cams by sight so each one is perpendicular to the cylinder head when it is being measured.
        Glad you think you have it "sorted", but that is NOT the correct way.

        If you read the Clymer manual carefully, you will see that you start with Exhaust #1 (that's the one under your clutch hand), align that cam lobe so it is FORWARD and #2 Exhaust lobe is UP. While in that position AND WITHOUT ROTATING THE ENGINE, measure BOTH, #1 AND #2 exhaust valves. Rotate the crank 180 degrees, Intake #1 will be UP, Intake #2 will be BACK. While in that position AND WITHOUT ROTATING THE ENGINE, measure BOTH, #1 AND #2 intake valves. Continue another 180 degrees on the crank, measure #3 and #4 exhaust the same way, a final 180 degrees on the crank, and you can check #3 and #4 intakes.

        Note that, once you have the cams set up for the first check, you only move the crank THREE TIMES before you are done checking.


        The reason? If you look closely, you will see that in those positions, neither cam lobe on that side of that cam is pushing on a valve. That will keep the cam centered in the bearing for consistent readings. If an adjacent valve is being pushed down, the cam will be pushed a bit off-center (which is minimized when running, due to the pressurized oil film), giving you a false reading.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #5
          Yes, Clymers is wrong...BUT it is a small omission on their part, not grand larceny. The clearances will be off a smig, but nothing that will cause undue risk to your engine.

          Please use the Suzuki method next time you do the valves but I wouldn't worry for now.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Hi John

            Yes, there is actually only 1 method of setting these valve clearances, and that is according to the method described in the official Suzuki workshop manual, as explained above by Steve and in BassCliff's "How To". However, as Nessism said, you are probably good to go as it is.

            May I suggest that you make use of Steve's kind offer (see his signature)to obtain a copy of his spreadsheet for keeping all the information regarding shims handy in one reference. Knowing which shims are in there at the moment will make it easy to plan ahead and obtain correct shims for your next adjustment session.
            1981 GS850G "Blue Magic" (Bike Of The Month April 2009)

            1981 GS1000G "Leo" (Bike Of The Month August 2023)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              If you read the Clymer manual carefully, you will see that you start with Exhaust #1 (that's the one under your clutch hand), align that cam lobe so it is FORWARD and #2 Exhaust lobe is UP. While in that position AND WITHOUT ROTATING THE ENGINE, measure BOTH, #1 AND #2 exhaust valves. Rotate the crank 180 degrees, Intake #1 will be UP, Intake #2 will be BACK. While in that position AND WITHOUT ROTATING THE ENGINE, measure BOTH, #1 AND #2 intake valves. Continue another 180 degrees on the crank, measure #3 and #4 exhaust the same way, a final 180 degrees on the crank, and you can check #3 and #4 intakes.
              I have re-checked the valve clearances using this method and had to change 4 shims. Yes I can see this method will give much more consistent results. Thanks for the tip.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by john View Post
                I have re-checked the valve clearances using this method and had to change 4 shims. Yes I can see this method will give much more consistent results. Thanks for the tip.
                Not really a tip, it's the factory-specified method.

                Did you happen to notice this tip?
                Originally posted by 2BRacing View Post
                May I suggest that you make use of Steve's kind offer (see his signature)to obtain a copy of his spreadsheet for keeping all the information regarding shims handy in one reference. Knowing which shims are in there at the moment will make it easy to plan ahead and obtain correct shims for your next adjustment session.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment

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