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    Valve adjustment

    When changing shins in an adjustment, is it preferred to shoot for the middle of the acceptable range or the top of the range?
    Current Bikes:
    2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

    #2
    Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
    When changing shins in an adjustment, is it preferred to shoot for the middle of the acceptable range or the top of the range?
    I leave them at the looser end, to buy more time between adjustments.
    ---- Dave
    79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
    80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
    79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
    92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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      #3
      Go loose. They are tight enough already and going on the high side will take care of tolerances in the measurement and provide a bit of insurance.
      97 R1100R
      Previous
      80 GS850G, 79 Z400B, 85 R100RT, 80 Z650D, 76 CB200

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        #4
        Ok thank you. One more and we'll have a consensus
        Current Bikes:
        2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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          #5
          I’ve always read that you should adjust to the higher end of the spec as clearance will get tighter over time.
          Rich
          1982 GS 750TZ
          2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

          BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
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            #6
            Ok I just ordered some shims. I'll get close to the upper end but since I can only get shims in .05 mm increments, I can't get right on. This is for the FZ1 by the way.
            Current Bikes:
            2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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              #7
              I am guessing that the valves and seats will wear much like the GS bikes, always going tighter, so start with them on the looser side.

              Many of us will go just past the spec on a GS, you might be able to do that, as well.

              What are the specs for your engine?

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                I am guessing that the valves and seats will wear much like the GS bikes, always going tighter, so start with them on the looser side.

                Many of us will go just past the spec on a GS, you might be able to do that, as well.

                What are the specs for your engine?
                .
                Intake: .11 to .2 mm gap
                Exhaust: .21 to .25 mm gap
                Current Bikes:
                2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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                  #9
                  At least you have more than one increment below your minimum clearance.

                  GS engines are 'fun' because the minimum clearance is below most feeler gauges, and just below the minimum clearance is ZERO, where things start to get 'interesting'.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                    #10
                    I went and measured all my shims with a micrometer last night. Every single one of them was less than what was marked on them. I will still be ok with what I ordered but will be .01 mm over the max on a couple of them. I'm guessing that will still be ok, but maybe some ticking as a result?
                    Current Bikes:
                    2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you can hear the ticking with that little bit of extra clearance, just turn down your hearing aids.

                      I can't really hear any difference with the extra clearance in my valves, can't say that I really feel any difference in power, but I do go longer between needing to make any changes.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        It's pretty common to go .02mm over on GS shims, up to .10mm. And there's absolutely no difference in engine noise; that's not enough added clearance to make a ticking sound, even if you didn't have the general cacophony of a running engine.
                        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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                        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
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