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83 GS750E rebuild thread.

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    #91
    Lower the clip on the needle to raise the needle. (richen)
    I always go one clip richer then DJ suggests.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #92
      thats what i figured i would do. does my idea about the plug caps and wires sound like a good idea? my wires are removable.

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        #93
        What coils are you running?
        Get some new ones. I have a couple of sets of plug wires. I'll even throw in some spark plug threaded caps for the bigger spark plug wire caps.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #94
          Im running the stock coils for now. I dont think i can afford new ones. I found coils with wires for 42 a piece and caps for 4 bucks a piece. But im kinda poor right now. The coils work im pretty sure. It runs on all 4 once it heats up. I guess new coils couldnt hurt thow

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            #95
            Originally posted by piester View Post
            Im running the stock coils for now. I dont think i can afford new ones. I found coils with wires for 42 a piece and caps for 4 bucks a piece. But im kinda poor right now. The coils work im pretty sure. It runs on all 4 once it heats up. I guess new coils couldnt hurt thow
            You said the wires are removeable so what I meant to say was to get new wires. It looked like I said coils. Sorry
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #96
              ok cool. i can get 6 feet of plug wire for 3 bucks. and new caps are 3.95 a piece.

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                #97
                just ordered new plug wires, caps, and clutch springs, clutch was slipping a bit under wot when shifting into second. should be here in a few days. ill let you all know what kinda difference it makes

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                  #98
                  ok im kinda confused. i took the bike out for a spin, and the front end feels a bit twitchy as compared to the 850. is this because of the differences between the 2 bikes? the weight? or is it more likely that the fork legs are bent?

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                    #99
                    The 83 E model is a very nimble bike compared to many of the others in the GS line. Though of course your forks could be bent.

                    Check the fork oil and preload the forks as needed for your wieght and it should be ok.

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                      Check both front wheel, forks, stem bearings AND rear wheel swing arm for issues. Had bad rear wheel bearings on a CB1100F. I swore it was a front end issue. Never underestimate tire size contribution to handling problems

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                        checked the fork legs. they are fine. front tire is really choppy on the sides thow. still havnt put the new one on. im pretty sure the fork oil needs to be changed or its low also. ill check all my bearings tonight when i get out of work. im pretty sure its just the difference between the 2 bikes.

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                          bit of an update. checked the air level in the forks. it was empty. pumped it up to 30ish. and its still holding air. front end feels a lot lot better. also adjusted the katana clipons to where i like them. turn signals are working... msot of the time. started messing around with paint ideas. i dont know about this one. haha. i like it but eh. spend a little time cleaning... a very little time. i must have routed my throttle cable wrong thow. i crimped it on my stearing lock. oops. i have the one off the 850 thats almost new. thats it for now. opinions on the paint? be gentle please lol.

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                            Originally posted by piester View Post
                            checked the air level in the forks. it was empty. pumped it up to 30ish.


                            Eric

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                              yeah. i know. bit high haha.

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                                Let's see how many times I can mess up today. Got my wires. Caps. And clutch springs in the mail today. Epoxied the plug wires in and put the caps on. Put the coils on. I put the caps for 2 and 3 on the wires for 1 and 4. Switched them. Tried to start her and she just cranks and cranks. Make sure there was fuel. Then noticed that the inputs for the coils wernt plugged in. Plugged them in. Cranked her. All the would do is backfire. Switched the inputs and she fires right up. Runs great for about 10 seconds then starts sputtering and spitting then dies. Find out its only running on 2. Check the coils. The epoxy came un done. It was all melted and gooy. Looked at the bottle I used and it wasn't epoxie it was clear flexible water sealer. Awesome. This time I used a putty like jb weld. Then put electrical tape around it. Then a hose clamp so it wouldn't move while it was curing. Hooked it all back up and she fired and idled perfectly. Took her for a ride and she rides suprisingly good. I think I'm going to try raising the needle a notch and maybe bumping the mails up a size or 2. But she runs amazingly well

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