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Designing my own Rectifier/Regulator
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Planecrazy
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Boondocks
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cberkeley
Seven wires connect it up:
3 Grey - Stator
Black - Battery Negative
Green - Bike Frame Ground (Negative)
Red - Battery Positive
Blue - (Sense) Switched Positive (tail-light or such)
The chassis also is at Negative potential
Once the ignition is on, the red LED should flash, this indicates that the unit is sensing a current. It then quietly does its thing.
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tfb
This is lookin' good, I think I know where my next RR is coming from... ;-)
A couple of questions:
1. Will you fill it with epoxy resin and pop some cooling fins on it somewhere, or do you think it will cope OK 'as is' on the heat side of things?
2. Adjustable charge rate is a handy feature -- but how is it adjusted?
Cheers,
Mike.
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Originally posted by cberkeleyHere's a view of the prototype. It will be fitted to the bike this weekend for dynamic testing.
Features:
1) Robust, 40-Amperes, 200V Capacity.
2) Built-in Filter, may be run with a disconnected battery.
3) Adjustable charge rate.
4) All three phases regulated.
*grins* nice job.You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)
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cberkeley
Originally posted by tfbThis is lookin' good, I think I know where my next RR is coming from... ;-)
A couple of questions:
1. Will you fill it with epoxy resin and pop some cooling fins on it somewhere, or do you think it will cope OK 'as is' on the heat side of things?
2. Adjustable charge rate is a handy feature -- but how is it adjusted?
Cheers,
Mike.
I am hoping the large case 4" x 4" x 1.75" and "overkill" components will keep the temperatures in-check.
There's a 0.25" threaded hole at the side (next to LED) into which a very short bolt with a rubber washer is screwed. Removal of this bolt (keeps out dust and water.... BTW the case is watertight) reveals a screwdriver adjustment for the charge rate. The charge-rate adjustment is a multi-turn adjustment (15-turn potentiometer) this provides accurate and fine adjustment and also negates the need to "seal" the pot against movement by vibration. I may also add a connector for hook-up of a "Battery-Tender"..... but the jury's still out on that one (simple enough though).:-D
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cberkeley
Originally posted by beby99Excuse my ignorance.....what would be the reason for adjusting the charge rate? Increased output for accessories?
Design Protocol and Priorities:
1. Build a Rectifier/Regulator package that does not have a tendency to self destruct.
2. One type should fit and work with all PM 3-phase Alternators.
3. Low component count.
4. Multiple Grounding points.
5. Adjustable Charge Rate.
7. Filter Circuit.
8. Battery Tender Jack.Last edited by Guest; 06-08-2006, 07:50 AM.
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Originally posted by cberkeleyAlso, I've heard that folks have run their motor and disconnected their battery, only to have their electronics (Ignitor) fried by the surge and pulsating currents. So, I've incorporated a beefy filter circuit to take care of that eventuality. BTW I have no idea why one would want to disconnect the battery from a running motor???You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)
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cberkeley
Originally posted by NerobroWell that's pretty easy to explain. If your battery is T O A S T. that's all youv'e got to run on. I never really viewed it as a problem ;-) I honestly think it's just an old wives tail that your R/R will burn out if you run without a battery. The R/R is under the same load no matter what the state of your battery is.. Itwill dump excess current to the frame no matter what.Last edited by Guest; 06-08-2006, 09:00 AM.
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JHawkins
Have you thought about putting a fuse or circuit breaker on the output side to remove the need for an inline fuse? looks like there would be room left in the case.
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cberkeley
Originally posted by JHawkinsHave you thought about putting a fuse or circuit breaker on the output side to remove the need for an inline fuse? looks like there would be room left in the case.
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hungryman
Cletus,
Good job. If you don't mind might I suggest a switch instead of an adjustable pot. If there are a limited number of discrete battery selections, that is. I've always tried to avoid pots for the end user (in some instances, the spec will specifically state so)> One of those inline selectables might do the trick.
Just a thought. One more q - do you simulate before you prototype, and if so, which one?Last edited by Guest; 06-08-2006, 09:54 AM.
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cberkeley
Originally posted by hungrymanCletus,
Good job. If you don't mind might I suggest a switch instead of an adjustable pot. If there are a limited number of discrete battery selections, that is. I've always tried to avoid pots for the end user (in some instances, the spec will specifically state so)> One of those inline selectables might do the trick.
Just a thought. One more q - do you simulate before you prototype, and if so, which one?
I generally design the old fashioned route: sleepless night looking at the ceiling with the idea running around in my head, basic schematic on a paper napkin during breakfast, then I do the rough math during lunch, then I breadboard the thing or parts thereof at about 2:00am when all are asleep, test in the lab and tweak component values, all too often letting out the magic blue smoke while yelling a few choice words of wisedom and starting all over again. I did at one time have a couple of simulation programmes Spice and Electronics Workbench, I like them and still use them sometimes.
BTW the case temperatures are acceptable so far... 40*C over ambient (my ambient is now 29*C) that gives me an operating temp of 89*C Max allowable temp is 150*C ...I think we can get away with the case as is (without fins). Mounting to the frame of the bike will dissipate some addiitional heat too.
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mixongw
Confusing
Originally posted by cberkeleyHere's a view of the prototype. It will be fitted to the bike this weekend for dynamic testing.
Features:
1) Robust, 40-Amperes, 200V Capacity.
2) Built-in Filter, may be run with a disconnected battery.
3) Adjustable charge rate.
4) All three phases regulated.
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