Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[tom203]

I have a question for you folks......... All the ground connections are good! How long will this last?? What should I watch out for?
Thanks

Doublecheck all your connections- follow the grounding recommendations. Check output with multimeter on day 1 and from time to time to be safe. Unfortunately, things can go wrong suddenly , so either consider an on board meter display or start to worry when signals no longer flash.

[ValorSolo]

Can anyone identify this regulator?
It's on my GS750, but I don't think it's stock as the wires have been spliced.

[Matchless]

Not really possible to identify without the number on it, but physically its very small and could probably be off a smaller bike and could then also be of a low current handling capacity.
I would replace that just to be safe.

[ValorSolo]

Thanks. I'll replace it when I re-wire my bike in a couple months.

[daturat100r]

Just a question about r/r power handling .According to the suzuki workshop manual the alternator output is max 14amp so is it really necessary to go much higher than that with the r/r? Reall need to replace my charging setup as it getting to be a pain charging battery prior to use.

[tom203]

Just a question about r/r power handling .According to the suzuki workshop manual the alternator output is max 14amp so is it really necessary to go much higher than that with the r/r? Reall need to replace my charging setup as it getting to be a pain charging battery prior to use.

Basically, the early 1980's Shindengen R/R's seem to handle this 14 amp easily from a suzuki stator- many hondas of this era had bigger output stators , so Shindengen likely designed for them. You don't have to opt for a 30 amp R/R. I'm using one off a 1980 cx-500 - stable output and runs cool.

[Matchless]

Just a question about r/r power handling .According to the suzuki workshop manual the alternator output is max 14amp so is it really necessary to go much higher than that with the r/r? Reall need to replace my charging setup as it getting to be a pain charging battery prior to use.

Its advisable and more reliable, especially if you are replacing with a 20 or 30 year old unit. Running an electronic part at its maximum current rating can reduce your safety margin as the part may suffer a premature death!

[Normk]

Matchless, I keep reading your signature line but the correct quote is not, "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely doing nothing!"

The correct quote is: "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely my ex-wife."

Just thought you'd like to know,

Norm

[Matchless]

Matchless, I keep reading your signature line but the correct quote is not, "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely doing nothing!"

The correct quote is: "If you never make mistakes, you are most likely my ex-wife."

Just thought you'd like to know,

Norm

Ha, ha! Norm, it will most likely fit for some colleagues and bosses as well then!

[Crazy_Russian]

HAHAHAHA... now i know why im divorced

[Normk]

Perhaps you should change your handle from "Crazy Russian" to "Happy Russian" ?

[TooManyToys]

I hate long lists, so here is Matchless' current table with the units that can be used on the GS with the yellow highlighted one being at the marginal low end. On edit, added as a pdf file with updated info.

[hjacobmiller]

A lot...of...really...technical stuff! I tried making sense of some of the earlier posts but I am not that electrically inclined. I think I need a new r/r for an 82 GS300. All of the replacement ones I have found are between $80 and $100. Is there one that is compatible that is cheaper that will work better or should I go with one that is specifically listed from somewhere like RMstator that is meant to replace the stock?

Any advice would greatly be appreciated as I am completely new to this!

Thanks and kudos for all of the technical information!

[Normk]

Electrical is a very simple field to comprehend but, like most things, has a fairly steep learning curve at the beginning. The thing about VRR units is that they can be adapted across a wide variety of applications as long as their capacity matches or exceeds the requirement.

Adapting the wires can appear to be daunting but one can deal with each wire pair individually so in practice the task is not very complex, so long as one knows what is to be done.

You will find that there are many here who are very knowledgeable, patient, and respectful that their small field of expertise does not make them better than others so just ask your questions. If you are referred to a listing such as that offered by TooManyToys and cannot comprehend, just ask and someone will likely help. The original poster may not wish to come forward unless really required because we all wear out but few will leave you high and dry if no other help is available.

HIH

Norm

A lot...of...really...technical stuff! I tried making sense of some of the earlier posts but I am not that electrically inclined. I think I need a new r/r for an 82 GS300. All of the replacement ones I have found are between $80 and $100. Is there one that is compatible that is cheaper that will work better or should I go with one that is specifically listed from somewhere like RMstator that is meant to replace the stock?

Any advice would greatly be appreciated as I am completely new to this!

Thanks and kudos for all of the technical information!

[gearhead13]

A lot...of...really...technical stuff! I tried making sense of some of the earlier posts but I am not that electrically inclined. I think I need a new r/r for an 82 GS300. All of the replacement ones I have found are between $80 and $100. Is there one that is compatible that is cheaper that will work better or should I go with one that is specifically listed from somewhere like RMstator that is meant to replace the stock?

Any advice would greatly be appreciated as I am completely new to this!

Thanks and kudos for all of the technical information!

I picked up a good honda shindengen R&R off ebay for ~$40. Much better and cheaper than the new stuff out there IMHO.