81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio

[Steve]

I found out today his race bike is a Suzuki SV1000. Pretty nice looking too though I doubt I could sit in that position for long

If it's truly a race bike (not just a wannabe) his focus will be somewhere besides "comfort", so it really doesn't matter.

.

[cowboyup3371]

Got over to my friend's house today and organized piston rings/valve parts in preparation for my stuff to come from G&S Suzuki in the next couple of weeks. I also tried to paint the brackets that hold the pegs and the swingarm bolt but messed it up. My friend recommended I wet sand it and start over but I'm not quite positive what the wet sanding will give me (sorry, still stupid on the paint department). Can't I just paint over the mistake or do I need to sand everything down? What does the wet sanding give me?

Also stripped paint off a couple of other parts that I intend to polish up.

[Johnny Drummond]

The main advantage of wet over dry sanding is the paper is formulated to cut quicker and not fill up,it also seems to give a smoother finish,just get a tub of water with a little washing up liquid in it(it helps if the water is warm, but its not vital) depending on how bad the result of your painting is I would start with 320 grade getting it reasonably smooth and finish with 600-if its really bad and you want to take it all off start with 150 the when you have the paint all off go to 320 this will give you a good key surface to begin again.Hope this makes sense and helps.Johnny

[cowboyup3371]

Okay, sounds good, thank you for the information.

[cowboyup3371]

No pictures yet but the swingarm/foot rest brackets are re-painted and cleared, sprocket cover/starter cover/breather cover are polished, and the valve cover is painted. Hoping parts will arrive this week to put the engine back together.

[cowboyup3371]

Started in on putting the speedometer and tachometer back together tonight but need to find some plastic covers for my pliers to keep from scratching up the metal rings. Also checked G&S Suzuki's website tonight and my parts will be here on Friday.

[cowboyup3371]

They're Here - Kudos To G&S Suzuki



Received my parts today finally and of course tore into the box as soon as I got home. Once I did, I realized I somehow ordered parts I didn't need (piston pins) and not enough of ones I did (cylinder o-rings and an oring for the head). Called up G&S and they will order the parts I need and not charge me shipping. Plus, they'll let me send back the piston pins on my dime but credit the cost towards the orings I need.

I still have enough stuff that I can take my vacation time next week and get to work. Very happy with them and looking forward to getting closer to having a running bike again.

[Guest]

AAaaah love gettin' those red and white labelled packets! Good stuff Scott, keen to see some progress

[cowboyup3371]

With the exception of tomorrow and my daughter Cheyenne's pre-surgery appointment, I took this week off work to work on the bike. I wasn't able to spend a lot of time there today but managed to get started on some fun.

First, piston rings were added back on and pistons installed to the crankcase. I found that it was much easier to install the oil ring and side rails first then do the top two rings. I know this is backwards from the book and common sense but it worked. I also learned an important lesson very quickly as I dropped a snap ring down into the area where the cam chain sits. Fortunately, it was up high enough on that shelf that the magnet grabbed it without an incident and I quickly placed a rag down before proceeding any further.

Pistons in place:



Numbers 2 and 3 piston rings. I moved the rings around to where they needed to be based on what I've read.



And I put the valve seals back on. I hope this was right and they do look/feel like they are. Guess I'll find out when I start it up. I'm sorry the picture angles are wrong on the intake side but the exhaust side looks better:

Intake 1 and 2



Intake 3 and 4



Exhaust 1 and 2



Exhaust 3 and 4



I'll get back at it on Thursday and intend to have the frame bits on, valves in place, and the crankcase back into the frame by the end of the day. I won't be able to button everything up though as I'm waiting on the o-rings I'd forgotten to order but I can still do other work. Plus, I have another big project I want to start for the wife so I may take some time on base at their wood shop.

[cowboyup3371]

My Clymers says to put Moly Lube on the valve shafts before installing them. Does it matter what I use - lube, oil, etc - or do I have to find that stuff?

[Johnny Drummond]

valve instillation

Hi Cowboy,clean engine oil is ok,either the 10/40 the bike will run on or heavier ie.20/50 will work as well.Just take a few minutes with a rag or long q tip with some methalated spirit on it run up and down the valve guides to make absoloutley sure that all of the grinding paste has been removed.Is your daughter unwell?,bummer hope all goes ok.Johnny

[Guest]

Excellent Scott, glad to see you've been able to get some progress!

I used moly lube on mine and went and bought it specifically, but as Johnny said clean engine oil is good too... the idea is just to have some sort of lubrication there for the very first turn over of the motor.

I think the difference between the moly lube and the engine oil is that the lube is thicker and won't run and drip off between the time you apply it and the time you turn the engine over for the first time.

Hope that makes sense... and hope your daughter is ok.

[Dogma]

Check with your shafty-riding friends. We all keep some moly paste handy for lubing rear splines at tire change time. I don't remember paying too much for mine. A few bucks at an auto parts store, once I found it.

I sometimes hear mention of assembly lube, which may serve the same purpose: lubrication and protection from rust until the engine can circulate its own oil.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks guys; Dale, spoke with Steve last night and he said he just uses oil on his valves.

Johnny and Pete, thank you for your concerns. This is a follow-up surgery from her tonsillectomy/adenoidectomy last year that resulted after we found other problems following her twisted bowel surgery in 2011. Essentially, she has had problems speaking clearly and the ENT doctors now believe she has a larger hole between her mouth/nose than she should have. Today's appointment is to scope her nasal passages and determine if she needs surgery to create a new "flap".

[mrl1000l]

Assembly lube stays in place longer than regular oil and is supposed to be better for break-in. I'd use assembly lube if you have it on hand, otherwise clean motor oil.