1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project

[LarsKroghStea]

I mounted the turn signals today, to see how they fit. Turns out they have the same threads as the headlight, so I'll use them there. Will drill and tap for a set screw just behind the blinkers, to set the angle for the headlight. That way I don't need to torque them too much. They're almost unnoticeble

[LarsKroghStea]

You've really done a fantastic job on this bike. That front end is wild, the whole bike just looks so mean. Job well done. As to the rear hugger fender, you might have to fabricate brackets for that, which would be easy with your skills, and extremely good for the motorcycle. It will keep the back upper inside of the bike nice and clean.

Thank you! And yes, you're right; it would be much better for the bike. I've been searching the web for solutions that would look good on my bike, and I think something like this (but in black, and a little longer) would look good:

[Suzukian]

You've really done a fantastic job on this bike. That front end is wild, the whole bike just looks so mean. Job well done. As to the rear hugger fender, you might have to fabricate brackets for that, which would be easy with your skills, and extremely good for the motorcycle. It will keep the back upper inside of the bike nice and clean.

[LarsKroghStea]

Got the Motogadget Mo.blaze tens today, and they look eksactly as I hoped they would:



I'll drill and tap a hole in the headlight mounts for them:

[Grimly]

Great tip I googled Hellermann (looks like they're called HellermannTyton now), and they have this product:




I will try to find a local vendor that lets me buy a couple of samples. They will slide over the banjos and shrink to the size of the brakeline. It doesn't look like the centertubing thickness will build enough material, so I'll probably use both your advices and put a piece of rubber tubing in between the line ande the locating bushes.

The bushes are cheap, it's the price of the tool to fit them that makes you blink.

[LarsKroghStea]

An electrical stockist may have some Hellerman cable rubber sleeves, or alternatively just cut a slice from a bicycle inner tube.

Great tip I googled Hellermann (looks like they're called HellermannTyton now), and they have this product:




I will try to find a local vendor that lets me buy a couple of samples. They will slide over the banjos and shrink to the size of the brakeline. It doesn't look like the centertubing thickness will build enough material, so I'll probably use both your advices and put a piece of rubber tubing in between the line ande the locating bushes.

[Grimly]

I also need to find some rubber sleves or something to make the hose fit the tabs og swingarm.

An electrical stockist may have some Hellerman cable rubber sleeves, or alternatively just cut a slice from a bicycle inner tube.

[LarsKroghStea]

Switched out the old rear brake-line with the new HEL-line. Also switched out the master cylinder. The master cylinder was not a great fit at all.. The input line should be perpendicular to the cylinder to avoid the line blocking other components. I will have to find another solution:



I also need to find some rubber sleves or something to make the hose fit the tabs og swingarm.

[LarsKroghStea]

Made some progress on the brakes. Or not...

First I sanded and polished the logo on the calipers (they were gold before, and I've previously painted them black):



I'll give them a coat of Eastwood Diamond Clear gloss later.


When I started to mount the brake lines I found out that the GS uses finer threads on the banjo-bolts than the Gixxer:



Also the banjos on the new lines are thinner, so theres no way to use the old bolts with the new lines (except from stacking crush-washers, but I don't that's a very good idea):



And lastly, the lines are very close to long enough, without getting there:



They will work when the fork is compressed by the bikes weight (and mine), but if the fork fully extends over a speedbump or something there will be a risk of damaging the master cylinder. At a cost of 340 dollars, I'm not risking that.
It's off to ebay to order a set of HEL lines for the front. It comes complete with all bolts and washers, so then everything is sorted. I'll still go with the "over fender"-option, as the Accossatos need a brake light switch in the banjo bolt and I already have that one. I also think over the fender routing looks both more stock, and better,


:

[LarsKroghStea]

And I bought this HEL-kit to replace the rotten lines to the rear caliper:

[LarsKroghStea]

With the throttle and clutch going, I'm fokusing on brakes (standard order of priority ). The brake pads that came with my calipers are the EBC FA379HH Double-H Sintered pads. They are quality pads with good reviews, and I'll stick with them.

I have an unused set of steel braided brake lines that I bought for the original fork. It's a setup with three lines, and they are far too long for the new short fork and clip ons.
The two long ones measure 62cm, and that's enough for making a cross over setup, like this:
























I will route the front left brake line over the Ducati fender: It looks like this, but I've drilled out the rivets. I'll have to make new fender stands as my front tyre is 19" vs the Ducatis 17".

[LarsKroghStea]

I'm also contemplating on putting a hugger/rear fender on the swingarm, to keep mud and dirt from spraying all over. Did this on my old Kawasaki Ninja, and it makes a big difference. As it hugges the rear tyre pretty tight it doesn't take away too much from the design either. Does anyone now of any aftermarket fenders/huggers that will fit, or any second hand fenders that kan be modded and mounted on the swingarm?

[LarsKroghStea]

Today I mounted a new OEM clutch cable. The old one was so worn, that I almost had to use two hands to clamp down the lever.. The new cable was about 10cm shorter than the old one, so maybe one of them wasn't exactly the right cable. I needed a shorter one, so that suited me well anyway.

I noticed earlier that my rear master cylinder was leaking. Took it off today, and it has definitely reached end of life I searched the net for a replacement, but it seems that all the well known brands mostly produce them in 40mm and sometimes 50mm (center to center measurement for the mounting holes). I had another one lying around, which is also 40mm, and for now I'll make a bracket and mount that one.



I've also had some problems with the watherpack connectors I use. I replaced most of them with other automotive connector, but I wamt to be sure that some of the connecctions are waterproof (e.g ignitionc etc.). According to most people the newer DEUTSCH connectors are a much better option for weatherproofing. I allready have the tools, as I don't mind double-crimping.

[LarsKroghStea]

You're either measuring it wrong or you don't have copper-cored leads.
A proper resistance for copper-cored leads is less than 0.1Ohm per metre.
I've just measured 4m of lead and got 0.3Ohm.

I might have measured wrong, somehow. I agree with you that there's no reason for copper wire to have som much resistance. Either way, I'm leaving this for the time being. There's som many other things to do

[Grimly]

The wires have a stranded copper core, and measure the same resistance with or without the Dynatek cap. From what I can see on the internet, 1Kohm pr foot is not uncommon for copper-core wires.

You're either measuring it wrong or you don't have copper-cored leads.
A proper resistance for copper-cored leads is less than 0.1Ohm per metre.
I've just measured 4m of lead and got 0.3Ohm.