1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project

[LarsKroghStea]

I don't know if this makes sense to you, but I wanted to see if I could fit the Motoscope mini into the GSXR-triple. When I bought the Mini, the plan was to use the original front. Then the new triple would have looked like this:
1ce10b547c10b4652240c67235888d93 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


There isn't room to place the Mini in the center of the Gixxer triple, but there is room for it on the opposite side from the gear indicator. I've cut a piece of paper the same size as the Mini, put it on the backside of the triple to position it between the support ridges. Then I've flipped the picture and layered it with opacity on top of the other picture.. Like this:


Backside:
Triple by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Frontside:
mini by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


It doesn't look as cool as when it's mounted in the center, but until I have access to a cnc router again it must be good enough..
I think it would look better with the instrument lights under the Mini.
Not sure of how I want to do this, so I'm open for suggestions

[LarsKroghStea]

Did a quick photoshop of what the triple would look like with the Mini and lights. I first did some sanding on the triple to brake up the shapes and to match the "design" with the tank and tail. I think I'll go with this.


Top Triple by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

Thought the Cognito Moto design of the indocator lights were much prettier than the big lights I used the last time. Drilled holes for 3mm 3V Leds, countersunk the holes 2mm and tested. Pretty satisfied. I did a test at a spot where I'm gonna remove material for the Mini anyway, just in case, but as I'm going with the design I'll position the holes below the Mini. Like in the picture I photoshopped. Here's a video I did to show the visibility of the LED (and some cheesy mobile editing )

[slayer61]

Very impressive work. Keep it up.

[LarsKroghStea]

Well.. stuff always seem to happen. My father in law bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D printer a while ago. He was the one who printed the "speedo converter" I designed:

IMG_20200416_223222 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I ended up with another solution, but at least I now know I have the skills to design parts that are printable

A couple of weeks ago, he handed med the 3D printer. It had become an object of annoyance to him, as he never got it to work well. He recently moved into a new house, and had decided he didn't want to use any more time on it. It is now mine, if i print some parts for him now and then. I've gotten the printer to print perfectly now (took some work), and it's an awesome tool to have at my disposal. But what do you do when you have a machine that can make parts of alomst any shape? You make another cool machine Looking for solutions, he upgraded the controlboard, and he gave me the old board with the printer. I bought 5 used stepper motors for 20$, and the rest of the parts on Ebay for about 120$. If everything goes well, I'll have a CNC-router capable of milling aluminum at the cost of about 150$ As I have access to a lathe at my dads, the ability to make cool parts for my bike should now only be limited to my own CAD-capabilities

Heres a picture of the printer:


Here's a picture of the parts I'm printing:



And here's a picture of what the router will look like. Most People in the US use Makita or DeWalt, but I'll print a tool holder for the blue Bosch grinder I already own. It's the same power as the Makita, 27k rpm and variable speed. Should mill alu with no problem;

Lang versjon by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I'm really exited to add these parts to my shop, and I thought it would be cool to post about it. I'll make som updates on the bike soon

[Grimly]

Excellent stuff.
Damn, now I have an itch...

[LarsKroghStea]

Couldn't resist trying to make my first 3D printed part for the bike

First, I made a 3D model in Fusion 360:
2021-03-22_09-53-00 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Then printed it. The print quality is awful, because of low quality setting and bad preparations. Just wanted to test if the measurements are right. I also wanted to test using supprts for the horisontal "roof". That worked flawlessly, and the supports are easy to pull away from the model:
IMG_20210322_225039 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
IMG_20210322_224705 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


The part is a housing for the underside of the top triple. It will hide the wires and protect the backside of the Motoscope mini and gear indicator.
IMG_20210322_224554 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I'll have to make it a cpuple of mm smaller. I didn't take into account that the edges taper about a mm. Aside from that, I'm pretty satisfied. I wont do another print before the fork is on the bike, in case I'll have to do other modifications.
IMG_20210322_224644 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

[LarsKroghStea]

I'm looking to replace the switchgear. I need 3 buttons (non-latching push-buttons) on each side.
The setup I currently have looks like this:





I don't like the ergonomics at all.. especially the button on the back is a pain to reach with gloves.
I know they have another version that looks like this:

and I've seen other manufacturers do something similar:

Of those two, I think the last option is the best.


I'll be designing my own set of switches (first by 3D print, then cnc-milled aluminium) and I've been looking at Superbike-style switches. They seem to be disigned around the "swiping radius" of the thumb for better ergonomics, and I think they look pretty cool:



What do you think? Does anyone have a link to something cool that also works well?

[tas850g]

Check these out: https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collection...lebar-switches

[LarsKroghStea]

Check these out: https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collection...lebar-switches

Awesome, thanks! I think the three-button version on the picture below would be the best option:

[Guest]

Well, I have a new question. Seems like someone damaged the threads to one of the exhaust bolts. What's the best way to fix this?

With a tap and die set and you can re-tap the hole. If the old bolt is stuck you may have to drill it out or use some kind of bolt extractor.

[LarsKroghStea]

With a tap and die set and you can re-tap the hole. If the old bolt is stuck you may have to drill it out or use some kind of bolt extractor.

Thanks, but I think this was a badly phrased question on my part :/ Some of the aluminum casting has broken off, and the threads are gone with it:


There's too little thread left to hold the bolt properly. Usually, I would use some strong reinforced filler. But I'm afraid it wont expand at the same rate and probably work itself loose. is welding the only option?

[LarsKroghStea]

I designed and rendered Version 1 of the switch housing. I'll 3D print one tomorrow to see if it seems OK.

[LarsKroghStea]

Modelled the bakside and printed both parts:



Printing the clamp lying down wasn't a good idea..

Both because of finish and strength:



The housing turned out ok, one of the threaded holes was a bit off. I'll correct it and print new ones. The clamp I'll print lying on its side.

[LarsKroghStea]

Size and ergonomics look good