Best way to check if chain needs tightened

[Turtleface]

So what is that an Arizona thing? making fun of people?

Cause its really needlessly cruel.

In a world full of misaprehension and all.

I have seen bikes with suspensions that are exceeded by the riders with over loading.

so do we make an arbitrary measue and have the chain singing tight just to please a manual?


Nay I say No
indeeed ahch NOOO laddie.

Nah, I'm just busting yer chops. Being needlessly cruel is my hobby. Don't take me so seriously. I was more trying to get you to think about the entire motorcycle, rather than just the chain.

I'm not recommending an absolute measurement for chain play, in regards to setting chain tightness. Neither was anyone else. They were just saying what methodology they used, and which measurements worked for their particular machines.

Now, back to the matter of overloaded suspension. If the bike is overloaded, your chain will indeed need a much looser than normal setting, to account for the extra travel. However, I was attempting to point out that the suspension being overloaded was, in itself, an incorrect situation, and SHOULD be addressed before setting chain slack. In an overload situation, the bike has used up a good portion of the rear suspension travel, which will lead to all sort of unpleasantness at a inopportune time. IE, you run out of suspension travel, you effectively run out of traction when the rear wheel leaves the ground due to the inability to the suspension to compensate for irregularities in the road surface.

Again, sorry if I offended you, it wasn't my intent.

[Nessism]

alas mine does not so there

Do you own a GS motorcycle?

I checked service manuals for the GS1000, 1st and 3rd generation 750, and GS1100E and all say to check the chain tension with the bike on the center stand.

[posplayr]

this thread really make me wanna..................................
















clean my chain and check my chain tension.

[Turtleface]

Do you own a GS motorcycle?

I checked the GS1000, 1st and 3rd generation 750, and GS1100E and all say to check the chain tension with the bike on the center stand.

I think he means his does not have a center stand.

[Baatfam]

I think he means his does not have a center stand.

I know I don't...

I just sit on the bike, lean over, grab the chain and see if it's 'bout right...

And 'bout right hasn't changed since my first bike back in 1972 or so...

[bwringer]

When it comes to chains, loose is far FAR FAR better than too tight. Do NOT err on the side of too tight.

[posplayr]

I know I don't...

I just sit on the bike, lean over, grab the chain and see if it's 'bout right...

And 'bout right hasn't changed since my first bike back in 1972 or so...

On know that won't due

We are gonna need a couple of collimated lasers, a vertical reference compensated for local "G" variations and perhaps an international standard weight for a GS rider .

Please check the tire pressure so that we can get started but first is this chain or shaft drive (really it makes a difference)?

[tkent02]

On know that won't due

We are gonna need a couple of collimated lasers, a vertical reference compensated for local "G" variations and perhaps an international standard weight for a GS rider .

Yes, but did you actually dip the carbs?

[salty_monk]

You Tube it..... You'll get some answers on there.

For me I go with about 1.5" movement total (between fully up & fully down) at the centre point of the chain with butt in the saddle.

[Baatfam]

For me I go with about 1.5" movement total (between fully up & fully down) at the centre point of the chain with butt in the saddle.

That sounds 'bout right....

[Clone]

Some snarky people in this thread, the guy wants to check his chain

With the 83, I find if I adjust it to the deflection listed in the manual while it is on the centre stand it is tighter than He{{ when I am on the bike.
So I set the deflection with someone sitting on thebike. This I find makes it perfect when my wife also rides with me. The chain is neither too tight nor too loose I keep it lubed and don't need to adjust it except maybe in the spring.
Setting a chain too tight is what kills it, the chain wears too fast.

[Steve]

Simple trigonometry here, guys.

Although the output shaft on which the front sprocket is mounted, the swing arm pivot and the rear axle are almost in a straight line, think of them as the corners of a triangle. Unless they are in a straight line, due to rider/passenger weight, the distance from the output shaft to the axle will always be less than the sum of the other two sides. This means that the chain will always be tightest when those three points are in a straight line. Best to check your chain tension at that time to assure that you will always have a bit of slack, however small.

Raise the rear wheel by removing the shocks and levering it up with a 2x4 or pulling it up with a ratchet strap over the frame until the three points area in a line. Adjust the chain to have just a little bit of slack at that point. Re-assemble the rear suspension, allow the shocks to extend fully by putting the bike on the centerstand. Measure the chain slack again. Since this measurement is a LOT easier to duplicate, you at least now know that by setting to this measurement, you will still have a bit of slack when the three points are aligned. You should only have to do this once, unless you change the length of your rear shocks.

By the way, the point where the three points are aligned is probably somewhere mid-point in the rear wheel's travel. Adding a passenger and luggage for a trip, which will compress the shock further, will probably take the axle over the line of the other two points and add slack.

.