GS1100G suspension upgrades…recommeded parts?

[Buffalo Bill]

OK, after 1 month, the Sonic Springs came in.
I installed them today and took a half hour joy ride on some very bumpy roads and a high speed off ramp with a hard right, fast left and a long fast right.
I just installed them (.95) with the recommended preload, gives a 1/2" static sag on the front, just by eyeball no measuring yet.
Just fine on bumpy roads, more like a sport bike, but I used to pump up the OEM shocks, so not a big diff to me, 'cept I don't have to do those impossible PSI estimates with left to right PSI balance.
On the high speed off ramp, well it ain't equal to my 1990 GSX750F, because it still had a funky wobble where the end of the ramp meets the highway. The GSX750F just glides right over that faster and with more lean.

[Buffalo Bill]

Is that funky wobble in hard corners a classic shaft drive thing?
I think you'd have to compare similar GS bikes to say so.

[Dogma]

No, that's just the frame, suspension, and tires not being able to cope with being upset in the curve. A 90 gixxer is quite a bit more advanced than an 1100G. Not that your suspension can't be upgraded to do much better. It's just that the requisite investment is inversely proportional to your sanity.

[Buffalo Bill]

Yeah, must be just the old design, plus it's almost the heaviest GS.
My rear tire is in it's last season too, getting flat in the middle. I can hear the tire sound change when I lean in a corner.

[Griffin]

Yeah, must be just the old design, plus it's almost the heaviest GS.
My rear tire is in it's last season too, getting flat in the middle. I can hear the tire sound change when I lean in a corner.

Worn tires are probably the number one cause of handling issues in corners. Some tires wear better than others. I threw away a set of Bridgestone Spitfires that were only 50% worn, because they were causing my 1000G to pitch in hard when leaned over and trying to hold a line as they transitioned from the the center to the edge of the tire. I put on new Michelin Pilot Activ tires, and it was like I had a new bike.

[Buffalo Bill]

I had Spitfires one bike, an XJ550 Seca, maybe another. The front tires have a V shape to them so they probably would dive in.
They scared me, hard rubber with not much bite, but I was selling that bike anyway.
Just before I read your post I ordered a new Shinko 712 rear tire. Got 5000mi out of the old tire and it was real sticky.

[Griffin]

I had Spitfires one bike, an XJ550 Seca, maybe another. The front tires have a V shape to them so they probably would dive in.
They scared me, hard rubber with not much bite, but I was selling that bike anyway.
Just before I read your post I ordered a new Shinko 712 rear tire. Got 5000mi out of the old tire and it was real sticky.

I have a set of 712s on my 650E. Like them real well.

[bwringer]

OK, after 1 month, the Sonic Springs came in.
I installed them today and took a half hour joy ride on some very bumpy roads and a high speed off ramp with a hard right, fast left and a long fast right.
I just installed them (.95) with the recommended preload, gives a 1/2" static sag on the front, just by eyeball no measuring yet.
Just fine on bumpy roads, more like a sport bike, but I used to pump up the OEM shocks, so not a big diff to me, 'cept I don't have to do those impossible PSI estimates with left to right PSI balance.
On the high speed off ramp, well it ain't equal to my 1990 GSX750F, because it still had a funky wobble where the end of the ramp meets the highway. The GSX750F just glides right over that faster and with more lean.

Not sure why all your posts are coming out with teensy tiny text...

Anyway, static sag should be more like 1" to 1.3", not 1/2". Total travel of GS forks (and most streetbikes, for that matter) is about 4". (If you prefer metric, then with about 100mm of travel, you should have 25-33mm static sag.)

The usual rule of thumb is that static sag should be set to about 1/4 to 1/3 total travel, according to taste. (1/4 of travel gives a firmer ride, 1/3 of travel more comfort).

[Buffalo Bill]

Teensy tiny text?
On my end it's kinda big, but everybody else has smallish text. I been selecting text size #1 or #2. This post I'll go with default setting.
I haven't taken a real measurement of the sag since I installed the new springs and shocks. I only have about 2 hours riding time on the new springs, maybe them and the spacers will compact a bit.
I followed the instructions for 1/2" preload on the fork springs.

[RichDesmond]

...I followed the instructions for 1/2" preload on the fork springs.

That should give you close to 35mm of total sag, which is good.

[RichDesmond]

Worn tires are probably the number one cause of handling issues in corners. Some tires wear better than others. I threw away a set of Bridgestone Spitfires that were only 50% worn, because they were causing my 1000G to pitch in hard when leaned over and trying to hold a line as they transitioned from the the center to the edge of the tire. I put on new Michelin Pilot Activ tires, and it was like I had a new bike.

Yep, worn tires are a big cause of weave/wobble. Problems with the rear suspension are another, lack of damping in shock(s) and/or worn swingarm bearings.

[Charlie G]

Teensy tiny text?

I've noticed the small text as well. This post is more better.

[Buffalo Bill]

Well, Tried to do as best of a front end sag test as I could, but with nobody to help steady the bike I can't take both feet up and rest them on the pegs, plus I had no gear on. The result was only 20mm front sag.
I'll work on a way to steady the bike with my feet up. Some kind of horizontal bar or 2x4 clamped to my work bench I can hold on to.

[Grimly]

Fasten a tie-wrap around the fork stanchion and park your ass on the bike.
Measure the movement when you get off.
Similar with the rear, if the damper rod is exposed and you have small tie-wraps.

[Buffalo Bill]

I dunno grimly, yah have to bounce the bike a bit to be sure it's settled down to it's lowest point before measuring it.
Anyway, I found an easy way, just park next to something solid to steady yourself as you settle the bike and put your feet up.
Have a stick propped against the front turn signal and mark it before you sit down, then after you settle your weight on the bike.