Major part of what I like about my GS. (GK actually)

[Redman]

Have had GSes since 1982. (650G, 850G now 1100GK).

Recently have been thinking I need to recheck the clutch cable adjustment, cuz sometimes have hard time downshifting into first, and getting into netural when stopped. (so click into netural while still rolling to stop - you know).

On ride this morning,
https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...o-for-a-ride-today-pics?p=1728204#post1728204

on way home, was pulling into a gas station and went to stopp at the pump, but wasnt getting into netural, and still powering along some with clutch pulled in, so turned off ignition.
Huh, getting worse, this is more than an adjustment ... oh, ohh, I know what that is....
Nope, dont fill tank, probably going to be taking off the tank real soon.
SO head home without getting gas.


Yep, getting worse real quick, . made it thru one light without having to stop, at next light did have to stop could not get netural and had to hold brake hard to keep from rolling along, so shut it off, then restart when clear to go . . . . . made it home.



Pull off that little cover over the clutch lever pivot area . . . . .



Yep, what I suspected. . . . . .

I know I got a spare OEM clutch cable (it rode with me to BrownCounty rally at least the last couple years).

Hum. Makes me wonder last time I lubed that round thing on end of cable in the lever. Maybe I should have since I replaced the clutch springs a couple years ago (along with the friction plates)..
But anyway, I recognized a problem, predicted what was the cause and what needs to be done (or, um, what should have been done before already), and have the part, and know what need to do to replace it.


Now reason I say this is part of why I like the GS (GK). . . . .
WHen I even half suspect anything strange happen on the RT, I have about no idea what might be going on, but know its gonna be expensive.
Well, when was gear lube all over back wheel, I did have a good idea, and, yep, was expensive.

 

[eil]

Glad to hear you made it home at least! I had a throttle cable break at the handle bars on my way to work once. Pushed the 850GL uphill about half a mile. (It didn't occur to me at the time that I could have just bumped up the idle a bit, left it in first, and modulated speed with the clutch and brakes.)

After work, a friend drove me to a nearby hardware store where I purchased the smallest vice grips they had. I took off the throttle tube, clamped the end of the broken cable in the vice grips, and held the vice grips against the bars with my right hand. I found I could twist the vice grips against the bar to operate the throttle, much as per normal. It wasn't super precise but it got me home, about 10 miles or so. It actually worked better than you'd think, especially in city traffic.

Now if you'll excuse me, I think I need to go oil a few cables while I'm thinking about it...

 

[Redman]

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Now if you'll excuse me, I think I need to go oil a few cables while I'm thinking about it...

Including that cylindrical piece on end of clutch cable that is in the clutch lever. IT needs to rotate in the lever to keep the cable strands from bending as the lever is pulled. Also inspect the opening in the clutch lever to see that it is smooth to allow the cylindrical thing to rotate.

Now if something strange going on with clutch on the BMW RT - I dunt know, . . . . have never even seen the slave cylinder.

 

[Suzukian]

The older Honda's had the push/pull throttle cables. When mine broke, I was able to just change the connection on the carb center rack, and you had to throttle forward to speed up. I was leaving work, 12:15 a.m., and could not remove the throttle assembly easily, but the tank lifted really easily. I road it like that for a couple for days, even got used to it. The return spring is so strong, the return cable isn't really needed, but makes for a good emergency backup.

My '83 GS750ES Suzuki has the original 40 year old throttle cable. I check it all the time, it is very solid. I think I'm going to get a spare one and just carry it in the tail piece storage compartment. I had the carbs off last week, and that end looks great too.

I had done a tune up on the Suzuki (this happened around 20 years ago), and did not realize when I put the tank back on, I crushed a plastic header male/female wire connector on the harness. About a half hour later, I took off really fast, and when I shifted, the bike just stayed at full throttle. I pulled over, shut if off, removed the tank, and saw the crushed connector, and could see the little plastic piece wedged in the carb pulling disc in the center, wedged, preventing the carb to go back to rest. I always carry tools, and had a set of Hemostats (different era, if you know what I mean), and picked out the part. If the bike had a return cable, I probably could have crushed it out of the way. When I got home, I replaced that piece by using bullet connectors, with shrink tubing, so there would be nothing in the way underneath there. Haven't had a problem since, but those double cables make sense to me.

 

[93Bandit]

Thanks for the story and thanks for the reminder, Redman! I need to lube my cables as well, my clutch cable has started feeling kind of stiff/notchy. Might be getting near time for a new cable for my 850 too...

 

[Grimly]

Glad to hear you made it home at least! I had a throttle cable break at the handle bars on my way to work once. Pushed the 850GL uphill about half a mile. (It didn't occur to me at the time that I could have just bumped up the idle a bit, left it in first, and modulated speed with the clutch and brakes.)

After work, a friend drove me to a nearby hardware store where I purchased the smallest vice grips they had. I took off the throttle tube, clamped the end of the broken cable in the vice grips, and held the vice grips against the bars with my right hand. I found I could twist the vice grips against the bar to operate the throttle, much as per normal. It wasn't super precise but it got me home, about 10 miles or so. It actually worked better than you'd think, especially in city traffic.

Now if you'll excuse me, I think I need to go oil a few cables while I'm thinking about it...

First PTW I had was a Vespa 150. One day the throttle cable busted, so I used the rear break cable as a heel throttle. Got me home.

 

[KiwiAlfa156]

Had the same thing happen on the GS650G on the way home from work. I usually upshift without the clutch (except 1-2) and can do clutchless down shifts without too much drama, by 'blipping' the closed a little to unload the dogs with downward pressure on the shifter -but only ever do this when the clutch is non-functional.

Stop lights and signs are where it got a little more complicated. If I could I'd get into neutral and coast to a stop all good. If I could time the lights even better. One stopped (best place to be was against the kerb and out of the way of traffic), engine off and select first, when the light goes green, hit the starter while paddling forward as fast as you can, the engine catches and off you go. Usually it was about a foot or so and I was under power.

It's even easier downhill, up hill took more planning and often two U-turns.

 

[rphillips]

I'm still partial to the cables, nothing simpler, easier, or cheaper to fix. I like simple and cheap.

 

[Grimly]

Nothing beats a bit of torque for starting clutchless.
I had a broken clutch cable on my R100, made it almost all the way home then got balked to a stop by a dozy driver in front going uphill at a snail's pace, then stopping.
In first, I prodded the starter and it caught then chugged onwards - that original R80 gearing probably helped a lot.

 

[Rob S.]

That's how I drove my '68 Camaro for a few weeks until I got the clutch linkage fixed. I love old, manual vehicles! :adoration:

 

[ddaniels]

I've actually never even thought about doing this. Makes sense.