I am stymied....vacuum leak.

[gustovh]

Theses here things? is the RTV fuel safe. If it dissolves your in for misery. Why not buy new ones and replace me in 43 years?

Those are not what I replaced, it’s the ones covering the aluminum plug under the float bowl, a ring actually.

V

 

[Nessism]

I found a Kawasaki PN for those missing donut seals, but they are discontinued. Suzuki doesn't show them on the parts fishe. I have made them before from a sheet of viton I've got lying around and that worked well.

 

[93Bandit]

What ring are we discussing here? Is it only on OPs model of bike or is it on other models as well? My 850L perhaps? I don't recall seeing this seal when rebuilding my carbs...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Could someone post a picture of what Vince is talking about. I thought I understood twice while reading this thread, both times wrong. Now I’m really confused. Nothing unusual about that, though.

 

[Nessism]

Not all GS carbs have these. I'm not sure what the deal is. Most of the time the aluminum plug is driven in tight and seals air tight, thus no need for these. The photo looks like a fat O-ring, but these are flat. And BTW, only certain types of RTV are gas resistant. Project Farm had a sealer test that discusses this. Personally, I wouldn't use RTV since it may only be a temporary fix.

BTW, this PN if from Kawasaki

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So it goes here, but only on some CV carbs?

 

[Nessism]

So it goes here, but only on some CV carbs?

Yes................

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks Ed. Sometimes I need to be spoon-fed. :rolleyes-new:

 

[rphillips]

Rekon, if anyone could contact him, Robert Barr would have a clue about finding those things?

 

[93Bandit]

So it goes here, but only on some CV carbs?

Thanks for the image! So it goes under that aluminum plug?

 

[Nessism]

Thanks for the image! So it goes under that aluminum plug?

On top.

That plug is the type that chuck was looking for here recently. Most of the time they are wedged in so tight there is no way to get them out. Other times, they fall out. It's the later where the donuts are needed. Or, if they are so loose that they are leaking, pop them out and use some sealer on the plug taper, then put them back in place, followed by a soft punch to swedge them back where they belong.

 

[gustovh]

On top.

That plug is the type that chuck was looking for here recently. Most of the time they are wedged in so tight there is no way to get them out. Other times, they fall out. It's the later where the donuts are needed. Or, if they are so loose that they are leaking, pop them out and use some sealer on the plug taper, then put them back in place, followed by a soft punch to swedge them back where they belong.

Good advice. What I have going now is fact finding. I had a vacuum leak before, now it seems that I don’t. When the new spark plug caps arrive I’ll go for a blast if I can and then we will know.
Its interesting that I have had zero issues with loose plugs and the carbs came with the rubber washers.

V

 

[gustovh]

Well took the old girl out and rung her out a bit and am happy to say the problem is fixed and no more idle issues. maybe this discussion will help someone some day.

V

 

[pdqford]

Glad to hear it’s running well again.
Did you end up applying a sealer to the plugs?
Or use the Kawasaki donuts on the plugs?

 

[gustovh]

Glad to hear it’s running well again.
Did you end up applying a sealer to the plugs?
Or use the Kawasaki donuts on the plugs?

Those are not the plugs that were the issue. It is the round ring seal that covers the aluminum plugs in the carb body that is covered by the bowl gasket.

I used O rings and filled the hole in their center with fuel resistant rtv...ya ya I know, we will see how long that hack lasts, but it did fix the issue till I get new doughnuts.

V

 

[gustovh]

Well after replacing every O ring and gasket for the forth time I still had a vacuumed leak, a really bad one. I had one thing left to try. I pulled the rack of carbs off a 80 750E that is waiting its turn in the shop. I pulled the float bowls and to my surprise they were spotless which boded well for the surgery to come. I separated the rack to remove the choke plungers…like new, was half tempted to just try the rack…nope.

Removed the carbs from my 1100L, separated them and installed the new plungers, reracked the carbs and put them back on. Rode a 100 miles yesterday with no sign of a leak.

Now to sync the carbs and do a bit of tuning. WoooHooo she’s back.

V

 

[gustovh]

I may cut my wrists, it’s back, different carbs in the future me thinks.

V

 

[gustovh]

The new carbs no work….redid the old ones again, success? We will see, but it idles now again.

V

 

[chuck hahn]

I may have missed it but when spraying starter fluid is the revs changing when hitting the intake manifolds? If so i have 3 solutions.1 is the clamps are so stretched they dont squeeze the rubber down tight enough. 2 is the orings in the intakes need replaced. 3 the rubber is too hard for the clamps to sufficiently squezze the good enough.

 

[gustovh]

Ran all the checks and came up clean, very clean carbs. The problem slowly came on at the end of a 1000 mile ride and got worse as time passed. I am running a stage one kit and have always run the pilots around 11/2 turns. If I go much more I get a hanging idle. Still tweaking them but may be a while now as other things get in the way. She does turn up fairly good now just waiting for the hammer to drop again.

i wonder if a set off a 83 1000G would work….

V