1982 1100E 530 Chain Conversion Thread

[Guest]

Turtle seems to have misunderstood and over reacted a bit....IMHO, Tone just chimed in with a 'told you so' post. If Snark gets your (not your) goat, stay away from O.T. section at all costs.
Tony.

 

[Turtleface]

Egads!

Egads!

Turtle seems to have misunderstood and over reacted a bit....IMHO, Tone just chimed in with a 'told you so' post. If Snark gets your (not your) goat, stay away from O.T. section at all costs.
Tony.

Nah, I'm actually quite happy go lucky. I'd probably go crazy in the retail world with my disposition. There's been some confusion as to whom I was trying to express my confusion about. I was mostly curious as to why using a known straight rod of steel received what I presumed to be derision from Tone. Hopefully those involved will check their private messages, understand and accept my apologies.

 

[mighty13d]

Nah, I'm actually quite happy go lucky. I'd probably go crazy in the retail world with my disposition. There's been some confusion as to whom I was trying to express my confusion about. I was mostly curious as to why using a known straight rod of steel received what I presumed to be derision from Tone. Hopefully those involved will check their private messages, understand and accept my apologies.

No you seem to be misunderstanding his post. He posted first about using a straight edge clamped to your sprocket to see how it is aligned. You quoted someone else and then said you used something straight to check it's alignment. Tone was just pointing out that HE had suggested that. It doesn't really matter if you use a piece of cold rolled, a straight edge or one of the little tools with the 8'' rod attached to the top to align it. They all accomplish the same thing.

What he was pointing out is that you did what he said and ignored that he had suggested it. lol I don't think he was expecting to see anything more than an "oh yeah, I see that you suggested that. It worked great" or something along similar.



EDIT: Also, you're write up was great. Thanks for all the pictures. I'm sure no one will deny that you did a fine job on that. I still think Basscliff would like to add this to his site if you didn't mind.

 

[tone]

Oops there seems to have been a little confusion here as to the meaning of my posts, in fact mighty13d nailed it

Just to clear it up, imo anything straight & non flexible is fine for checking chain alignment i thiink thats pretty much agreed across all the forums i use, there is some discussion about what is best for checking wheel alignment (a seperate issue) i prefer the slightly more awkward but imo more accurate non flexible straight edge route here when a jig is not available.

My second post was just a wtf here i am answering questions again & nobody even says "thanks" or "nice on mate" it does get a bit agrivating after a while if i'm honest

tone

 

[woodsietx]

I certainly wish I had seen this before attempting the same work on my 750. The parts and how they are arranged are almost identical to what I found on mine.

I might suggest that any write up of the process include a tool list. I was a newbie and lost several hours of time when I didn't have a socket big enough for the front sprocket nut. I was also having my tire changed which added to the delay. They mounted the tire backwards.

I also suggest changing the order of the work steps by moving cleaning the preservative off the new chain to before it is on the bike.

The only glitch I had was in the parts Z1 sold me. Their info showed that no spacer was needed for the GS750EX. That proved untrue. I lost a week waiting for the spacer. I spoke to Jeff (on the third call) and he confirmed that their information says no spacer was needed. He checked the parts list for the GSX750EX and it shows a spacer needed. Jeff was wonderful about getting the right part to me quickly.

+1 for use of air tools. Took a process (sprocket removal) that I wasn't even sure I could manage and completed it in about 2.3 seconds.

My cost for the entire job:
Sprockets and chain: $180
32 MM impact socket: $14
47 piece air tool kit (Home Depot) $60
Included a 1/2" impact, 3/8" ratchet and a rotary tool.
Can of cleaner: $4

Something else I want to add. BUY A SECOND MASTER CLIP or LINK if you are going to use a clip link. I had my first one shoot out of my hand into the yard outside the garage door. Nuff said.

Woodsie

 

[Turtleface]

Oops there seems to have been a little confusion here as to the meaning of my posts, in fact mighty13d nailed it

Just to clear it up, imo anything straight & non flexible is fine for checking chain alignment i thiink thats pretty much agreed across all the forums i use, there is some discussion about what is best for checking wheel alignment (a seperate issue) i prefer the slightly more awkward but imo more accurate non flexible straight edge route here when a jig is not available.

My second post was just a wtf here i am answering questions again & nobody even says "thanks" or "nice on mate" it does get a bit agrivating after a while if i'm honest

tone

Thanks for all your help, Tone! Sorry I misunderstood, I forget that you're across the pond. I read your post with the inflections of an yank. If I had remembered your location, I probably would have sorted what you were saying better. I'll drink a Stella to you next time I'm on the town.

I may have found an interesting solution. I work for Home Depot, and we've recently put on clearance a little metal puck that houses a laser. It's designed to be bolted onto a circular saw. I think, if I can find a way to rig it onto the rear sprocket, this may be a great solution to the unreliability of previously attempted laser jigs.

I'm fairly sure everything's adjusted correctly, as far as the chain goes. I get a really weird high pitched howling sort of sound at about 50 mph. It either goes away, or the pitch increases beyond human hearing range past 52-53 mph. Any ideas this might be? I removed the foam from the inside of the sprocket cover, maybe it there to absorb these high frequency sounds and I'm just being overly-sensitive? There's no performance change when the sound is active.

I'll go ahead an start putting tool lists in with first posts as well. I was considering it already, but wasn't sure if it was wanted. It's surprisingly short for this project, and should be within the scope of any basic tool kit.

Just ordered the rest of the parts I need for my front suspension rebuild, and was given a set of Progressive front fork springs, and a set of rear Progressive shocks and springs, from the PO, so be on the lookout for another write up in the near-future.

 

[maro]

This was a great write up! Thanks much Turtleface! I'm about to do this conversion and this was a total help. How has the performance been since the conversion. Did you ever figure out the high pitch noise at higher speeds?

 

[snicrep5]

wish I knew about this before I rebuilt my project. The chain flew off when the p.o. owned it and damaged the chain cover and some thread bosses on the case. Was only superficial. and replaced the chain cover. Went through the trouble of finding new 630 sprockets and new chain. Cost about 170, but now Ill put some miles on it before I convert to 530.

 

[mgotobed1]

Turtleface, thank you so much for posting such a detailed write up with excellent pictures. I had been very hesitant to try to do this on my own, but because you're write up was so excellent it gave me the confidence that I could do it. And I was able to get it done, and I could immediately tell the difference with the new chain and sprockets on because the old ones were way past due to be replaced. Thanks again, you're the man.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Hey, mgotobed1.

First, welcome to the forum. I suggest you start a new thread in the GS Owners forum to introduce yourself and your bike(s).

Second, this thread that you posted to has been dead for almost 13 years. None of the other posters in this thread are active on the forum anymore.

 

[GregT]

IMO the thread is obsolete anyway. The conversion should be to 520 chain now as that's where the development has gone in recent years.

 

[first timer]

Rear JT sprocket: JTR816.50 - 50 tooth 530
Front JT sprocket: JTF513.18 - 18 tooth 530
Front JT sprocket spacer: JTF518B - 6mm spacer
DID (530VX3G120ZB) Gold 120 Link High Performance VX Series X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

This is what i put on my kat and it all fits up just fine. Or you basically find a match setup but in 520.

 

[Sandy]

IMO the thread is obsolete anyway. The conversion should be to 520 chain now as that's where the development has gone in recent years.

If going to the 520 chain do you know if the 6mm spacer will still work or would you now need a 8 or 9mm spacer? Just curious but I would assume the thicker spacer would be required.

 

[GregT]

If going to the 520 chain do you know if the 6mm spacer will still work or would you now need a 8 or 9mm spacer? Just curious but I would assume the thicker spacer would be required.

The 6mm spacer is required because neither the 530 or 520 front sprocket will have the boss/integral spacer on the inside. 6mm spaces the front out so the inner edges of front and rear align. You'd use a 6mm spacer unless you needed to move the chain line outwards. If for instance you'd fitted a wider rear wheel. Which is easier with 520.....

 

[Sandy]

The 6mm spacer is required because neither the 530 or 520 front sprocket will have the boss/integral spacer on the inside. 6mm spaces the front out so the inner edges of front and rear align. You'd use a 6mm spacer unless you needed to move the chain line outwards. If for instance you'd fitted a wider rear wheel. Which is easier with 520.....

I thought the spacer went on the outside of the sprocket between the sprocket and the nut. Would the 520 sprocket then not need a wider spacer? I'm talking about stock GS1000, the 750/1100's should be the same. The bulge/boss on the stock sprocket is on the outside I thought.

 

[GregT]

I thought the spacer went on the outside of the sprocket between the sprocket and the nut. Would the 520 sprocket then not need a wider spacer? I'm talking about stock GS1000, the 750/1100's should be the same. The bulge/boss on the stock sprocket is on the outside I thought.

In my experience, if correctly assembled, the boss is on the inside.

 

[Sandy]

In my experience, if correctly assembled, the boss is on the inside.

With the OEM sprocket the flat part of the sprocket goes towards the engine case and the bulge with sound damper goes towards the outside where with a flat aftermarket sprocket the spacer should go to the outside to make up for the difference in width due to the missing bulge. The question is with a narrower sprocket would you need a thicker spacer or is the 6mm thick enough so the nut doesn't bottom out on the countershaft threads? Screenshot is from the Z1 site.
edit. Opps. The bulge actually has nothing to do with the damper. Just provides extra surface area on the spline. Still goes to the outside though.

Screenshot_20250114_120419_Chrome by soates50, on Flickr

 

[GregT]

To answer your question you'd have to mock one up and check the alignment.

I'll repeat that I've never seen the boss on the outside. IMO it would be poor engineering as the splined lock washer should go up against a flat face as large as possible.